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Clutch pedal lever
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:09 am    Post subject: Clutch pedal lever Reply with quote

On my '63 the original has some wear, mostly due to someone using a bolt/nut combination instead of the correct pin. I bought a reproduction and the angle is different. The cable will sit in a different position. Will this be an issue or has anyone had any issues with the reproductions and should I have the original welded up instead?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Original is the black one, of course.

In the photo above, the FRONT of the Bus is to the RIGHT side.
Imagine you are looking at this photo from the right side of the clutch pedal.
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Last edited by EverettB on Mon May 24, 2010 11:30 am; edited 1 time in total
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would weld the original (fill the hole completely, then redrill), rather than use that pos aftermarket junk.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


time to break out the instructional drawings i did a while ago:
please note that in the drawings, the FRONT of the bus would be to the LEFT, the REAR of the bus would be to the RIGHT:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by hazetguy on Mon May 24, 2010 11:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who needs these...Maybe we can scan an original and waterjet 100 or so. Question
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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420GOAT
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I traced the old one onto the new one and filed it as best as possible. i saved the og one to have it welded later.
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyone have a pic of the pin that holds the clutch cable . also how do u remove the pin so u can remove the clutch cable. I may have to do this today... i dont look forward to replacing the cable. do u put a screwdirver or block under the clutch pedal when ur removing the cable ? and is it better to unscrew the butterfly nut on the tranny arm first then remove the pin on the clutch pedal?
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have one off. If someone does and can scan the image with a ruler for reference and some measurements and send them to me I will try and get something going. Better yet if someone has an NOS for loan or good used and can send it PM me. If you have access to a waterjet guy, etc. feel free to do the legwork. I will try to get a cad drawing done and get a price for those interested.

**Sorry to hijack Everett...just saw a need as I know it has come up before**
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snoop Bob wrote:
I don't have one off. If someone does and can scan the image with a ruler for reference and some measurements and send them to me I will try and get something going. Better yet if someone has an NOS for loan or good used and can send it PM me. If you have access to a waterjet guy, etc. feel free to do the legwork. I will try to get a cad drawing done and get a price for those interested.

Direct scan of my used part.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=683547

Unfortunately I don't have another one to mail.
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hsosa1 wrote:
anyone have a pic of the pin that holds the clutch cable . also how do u remove the pin so u can remove the clutch cable. I may have to do this today... i dont look forward to replacing the cable. do u put a screwdirver or block under the clutch pedal when ur removing the cable ? and is it better to unscrew the butterfly nut on the tranny arm first then remove the pin on the clutch pedal?

Undo the nut. Use this opportunity to completely remove your cable, inspect it, clean the threads at the transmission end, grease it, and reinstall.

Pin examples:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=675824
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Pin installed from hazetguy
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that pin secure by a screw? How do u remove it? Sorry for the questions
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it just slides in and then it clips over the cable as seen above.

Unclip and slide it out to remove it.
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch pedal lever Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That shit'll adjust out!
I used one of those new ones last year. Still shifts like butter.
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
hsosa1 wrote:
anyone have a pic of the pin that holds the clutch cable . also how do u remove the pin so u can remove the clutch cable. I may have to do this today... i dont look forward to replacing the cable. do u put a screwdirver or block under the clutch pedal when ur removing the cable ? and is it better to unscrew the butterfly nut on the tranny arm first then remove the pin on the clutch pedal?

Undo the nut. Use this opportunity to completely remove your cable, inspect it, clean the threads at the transmission end, grease it, and reinstall.

Pin examples:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=675824
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Pin installed from hazetguy
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Ok so my pin is not attached to the piece of metal. I take it supposed to be welded .On looks like there was a C-clip maybe at one time. anyhow its just a loses pin with the locking piece. so its not secure to the metal lock tab. which means I need to buy a new at WW. or maybe c-clip it there s a small grove on the end of the pin. also how do u pull back the clutch lever so u can get the clutch cable butterfly nut to screw on. Is there a tool or do u have to get two people? a long socket to hold it in place ?
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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hsosa1 wrote:
Ok so my pin is not attached to the piece of metal. I take it supposed to be welded .... also how do u pull back the clutch lever so u can get the clutch cable butterfly nut to screw on. Is there a tool or do u have to get two people? a long socket to hold it in place ?


Some are made with the pin loose. I prefer the loose ones. The fixed ones can do two things: one is, they will release the metal clip by friction when the clutch is depressed which will not be apparent at first but will inevitably fall off at the most inopportune time, and two, the pin will rub on the lever everytime the clutch is depressed wearing it oval. The loose ones move with the action. The weakest part is the area where you say it looks like there was a circlip.

To get the wingnut on you have to pull the arm with your right ring finger and middle finger then use your thumb and pointer to start the wing, at least till the bruise is so horrendous you figure out a tool. I made a long wire stirrup that hooks onto the lever that I can pull. It will also disengage the clutch if I put my foot into it.
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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that repop looks janky!!

local shop wants $40 for a brand new legit one, i've checked them out they are spot on, but they get $90/hr so it is "more cost effective" for them to sell you the $40 part than spend one hour welding it up

i weld and redrill, have done about 5 of them so far and they are all awesome.

why did they remove the grease zerk for the clutch pedal shaft? down-engineering for it to wear out faster?

i like to pop the shaft out, usually they are pretty stuck, clean with 1000grit, grease and reinstall

ps, whats with the bolt in the brake pedal pushrod connection? shouldn't it be rod with a cotter pin?
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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
On my '63 the original has some wear, mostly due to someone using a bolt/nut combination instead of the correct pin.


I understand why bolts may get used in this location. I was taking mine apart and the spring clip that holds the pin in folded and broke off with little pressure.

Any source for new pins?
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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grease the moving parts, so they don't wear out
grease where the pin holding the cable goes through the other part, or they look like this, and you get slop.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


new pins/clips are $3 from WW
http://wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211721351

I think I used one of the repro levers (to replace the part with the ovalled hole above) and it worked fine.
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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep I got the pin from WW for$3.00 replace cable . In the end I took out the engine yesterday... Bad Clutch and TO Bearing. Brazillian clutch and German bearing... damm . I putting in a Kennedy 1700lb. now .
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I finally found my lever while digging through my garage today. Of course it is in the same shape as Everett's and of course I can not find my friggin micrometer anywhere. This sure went a lot slower than I thought it would. Can anyone provide an NOS one I can drop off to my CAD guy. If not I will use the one I have, as I already have the measurements off of it, even though it is a little beat up. If someone has one with a good end, can you provide the proper hole size for the cable pivot clip as mine is oblonged. Thanks. I will keep those interested updated.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hsosa1 wrote:
yep I got the pin from WW for$3.00 replace cable .


on the WW clip, does the pin rotate, or is it fixed?

i sell NOS pins (with pins that rotate) fairly easily at shows for $5.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am still interested in a good new/non worn used one, or the proper hole size. I don't want to repop 100-200 of these and have them be another "not correct" repro part.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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