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12v Power Outlet Behind-Dash Installation Photos
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:22 am    Post subject: 12v Power Outlet Behind-Dash Installation Photos Reply with quote

I have a huge favor to ask of anyone that has a 12v Power Outlet in their dash - could you post a photo of how you wired it to the auxiliary fuse?

I've searched threads going back to 2005 and while everyone has described different methods and places where they installed it, no one has posted photos of wiring going to the auxiliary fuse.

I'm about 2 days away from leaving on a road trip, so I'm going to try to do this in the last few hours before we take off. I haven't done much wiring, so I'm trying to research as much as possible so as to not screw anything up right before we leave.

Thanks in advance,

- Joe
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sped372
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:29 am    Post subject: Re: 12v Power Outlet Behind-Dash Installation Photos Reply with quote

RIOMX wrote:
I have a huge favor to ask of anyone that has a 12v Power Outlet in their dash - could you post a photo of how you wired it to the auxiliary fuse?

I've searched threads going back to 2005 and while everyone has described different methods and places where they installed it, no one has posted photos of wiring going to the auxiliary fuse.

I'm about 2 days away from leaving on a road trip, so I'm going to try to do this in the last few hours before we take off. I haven't done much wiring, so I'm trying to research as much as possible so as to not screw anything up right before we leave.

Thanks in advance,

- Joe


In my experience it isn't wise to mess with stuff in the last few hours before you leave. I replaced our dash pad once and spent an hour diagnosing why the bus would no longer start... with ice in the icebox as we were planning to head out. I inadvertently knocked the "hot" ignition wire out of the fusebox.

Projects always seem to take longer than you'd expect... if it were me I'd try to make your trip without the socket and install something once you're back. That way you have ample time and no pressure to troubleshoot, especially if you haven't tackled many wiring projects before.

Really though, all you need to do is tap into +12 of your choice. Either something that's hot with the key on, or something that's hot all the time. Make sure you go to the correct side of the fuse or your new 'circuit' will not be protected in the event of a short.

Just my $0.02.
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ChuxBus
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"accessory" fuse? Number 7? Or are you talking about an aux fuse panel?

I'd attach the pos lead to the spade above the #7 fuse and ground the neg lead to the body.
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:41 am    Post subject: Re: 12v Power Outlet Behind-Dash Installation Photos Reply with quote

sped372 wrote:
In my experience it isn't wise to mess with stuff in the last few hours before you leave. I replaced our dash pad once and spent an hour diagnosing why the bus would no longer start... with ice in the icebox as we were planning to head out. I inadvertently knocked the "hot" ignition wire out of the fusebox.

Projects always seem to take longer than you'd expect... if it were me I'd try to make your trip without the socket and install something once you're back. That way you have ample time and no pressure to troubleshoot, especially if you haven't tackled many wiring projects before.

Really though, all you need to do is tap into +12 of your choice. Either something that's hot with the key on, or something that's hot all the time. Make sure you go to the correct side of the fuse or your new 'circuit' will not be protected in the event of a short.

Just my $0.02.


I hear ya. A friend of mine was helping me with fixing my dash heat levers recently and we bumped a wire behind the dash. I smelled a burning wire and my hazards no longer work - I'm fixing this before I leave, but with help.

The biggest reason I need the power outlet is because we need to keep our phones charged for navigation as well as making calls in the event of an emergency.

Though Android phones are awesome, they also use tons of battery power and need to be constantly charged. I just don't want us to be stranded without a way to call for towing or help.
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChuxBus wrote:
"accessory" fuse? Number 7? Or are you talking about an aux fuse panel?

I'd attach the pos lead to the spade above the #7 fuse and ground the neg lead to the body.


Yes - the number 7 fuse for accessories.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks for the info - sounds like it might be simpler than I thought.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the westy "silver socket"? If so, a quick visit to the local John Deere dealer will solve the problem cheaply.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/SilverSocket.html
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Do you have the westy "silver socket"? If so, a quick visit to the local John Deere dealer will solve the problem cheaply.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/SilverSocket.html


Unfortunately not. A previous owner punched a hole next to the defrost. No big deal - the dash isn't perfect. Plus, I don't have to feel bad about making a hole.

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your rear defrost doesn't work (which most don't) just re-purpose that wire.
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's an excellent option if you don't mind the power shutting off with the key, if you want it on all the time run a new red wire to the empty spade terminal on the back (front actually) of the fuse box above fuse #7, 12ga if possible. You shouldn't have to disturb too much to hook it up but disconnect your battery first anyways.
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blitz18qb
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually splice into the wires from the stereo (to me that looks like a modern stereo with the facia off?) although I haven't had my coffee yet and my eyes are a bit 'off target'.

In the modern stereos, I would splice into the red wire if you want power all the time, and yellow wire for turn key power. Usually, there's plenty of working room on stereo's as most leave a bit of extra slack to play with once its installed.

These wiring colors have been true of every stereo I have installed and that is 7 - so I am guessing they are all similar!

Of course, your set up might be different Confused
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
That's an excellent option if you don't mind the power shutting off with the key, if you want it on all the time run a new red wire to the empty spade terminal on the back (front actually) of the fuse box above fuse #7, 12ga if possible. You shouldn't have to disturb too much to hook it up but disconnect your battery first anyways.


I'll have to think about it. I wouldn't be too bothered if they turned off when I took the key out.

Thanks for the tip on gauge. I'll have to see what comes with the kit I buy.
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

blitz18qb wrote:
I usually splice into the wires from the stereo (to me that looks like a modern stereo with the facia off?) although I haven't had my coffee yet and my eyes are a bit 'off target'.

In the modern stereos, I would splice into the red wire if you want power all the time, and yellow wire for turn key power. Usually, there's plenty of working room on stereo's as most leave a bit of extra slack to play with once its installed.

These wiring colors have been true of every stereo I have installed and that is 7 - so I am guessing they are all similar!

Of course, your set up might be different Confused


It is a modern stereo, but I'm not messing with it Smile
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Consider both the advantages and problems with having it keyed or not keyed. My bug is keyed and when I use the air compressor or anything else the ignition is also turned on which can burn out electronic ignition. (although it never has). If you have it unkeyed there is the chance of leaving something running and running down the battery. With my bus I have it keyed to the ignition switch with an accessory position so I can't harm the ignition. However when camping and leaving a fan, the cooler, or something plugged in and running I also have to have the key in the ignition. So if some jerk came along while I stepped away from it he could steal the bus.
Also consider that your cigarette lighter socket is apt to be used with big current draw items. So don't wire it into some little circuit that should be protected with a little fuse. So only connect it to a big capacity circuit and also give it it's own inline fuse.
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Last edited by Desertbusman on Tue May 25, 2010 10:08 am; edited 2 times in total
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just put a cig lighter in there (if you go under the glove compartment make sure you actually have the clearnence to do it) and put something like this in there.

http://www.amazon.com/12V-Triple-Socket-Power-Outlet/dp/B000GKD5PQ
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my bus I have the cigarette lighter up front wired to the defrost wire (on and off with key)

I have another outlet in the back hooked up directly to the aux battery for items that want to be on while parked.
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you wanted to just rig something up without messing with your wiring to achieve what you desire, I often hook one of these:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


To a spare battery I have laying around...

Should do the job nicely in the short term, and there should be plenty of juice in a battery to deal will cell phones...

Just an idea (those sockets are available at all good auto stores - and some rubbish ones)
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