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Hawaiian Westfalia Vanagon,Subaru EJ22+UN1 transaxle
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I finally received my transmission after a long wait.


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Christmas 2009!!!!
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The brake sensors were clogged,too old brake fluid never been changed by previous owner....

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 shitty
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 clogged

Different models???WTF!! The seller only had of each 3 models in stock....and my brake lights were not working:super dangerous!!
The one that was like mine was the cheapest,from Brazil.
The one on the right is made in Germany,3 times more expensive,and has riveted contacts.I bought it anyway,security first!!
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 solution:I splitted the connector
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 Cleaning was very hard,there is a tank inside the tank.Only the engine degreaser cleaned it.
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than water cleaned and dryed.

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 I bought that new in Germany,headlight adjusters,for the price of one in the USA.
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USA connectors
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I cut a syncro to take some parts for mine,later restoration.
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In this old Chevrolet I found an old surfboard Rusty Preisendorfer,a fun to surf little 6'2"
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member


Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
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I cut some old vanagon rotors with the disc grinder,to put big vented disc brakes with big 4 pistons calipers.

Rebuilt driveshafts with Porsche 944 cv joints
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New cv boots also,super quality,better than GKN.
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 944 is smaller diameter on the axle itself.
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 boots vanagon
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 VW style bolt,REIN bolt vanagon, Lobro/GKN 944 porshe bolt
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 80gr grease for 944 and 90gr for vanagon????
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I plan on putting syncro SC springs,but have to figure out dimensions for front shock absorbers,custom.
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 2WD shock and syncro arm with shock
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 syncro
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 syncro
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 2WD
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syncro front is shorter than 2WD Westfalia
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 syncro rear is longer

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 420$ machining Shocked tap threads 20$ each?!! holy shit!!!
Front on left,rear on right
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front
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 rear

Some work on the UN1 tranny

Measurements on 4 speeds Vanagon tranny

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 136mm center of input shaft to output flange,outside flat part,on right,155 on left side

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 151mm for a gas input shaft(total lenght 298mm),140mm for a diesel input shaft (total lenght 287mm)

You need an adapter plate 15mm thick,I did a mistake on mine,I took 10mm (3/8") and had to cut the butt of the input shaft

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 Hole sawed
I don't care of the diameter since my bellhousing has the sleeve part machined into.

NByou can make it wider,but it's not necessary
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The VW side is done too,no measurements,you have to put the bellhousing to mark the holes.
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 Tracage
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 homemade shifter Laughing
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
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 nice red paint on front calipers
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 I had to cut 5mm...like said previously Embarassed
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 cut
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 bearing preset adjustments
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you need 5 to 6.5 kg on the string,or the tool for weighing fishes Wink

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The homemade tool for the preset nut (only one nut on one side of the tranny)

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 the image is just for showing you,the weigh is not correct on this pic.
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 preset nut marked
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Damn,impossible to drill through,and machine shop are not competent here to de-temper it,drill it,and then temper it again Crying or Very sad
I don't want to glue it,it will be crooked....

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I put some tin on it,was hard to do

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 I pressed it hard,so it goes straight.(same splines than VW)
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 I do an evaluation of straightness.I heated it up,spinned it fast:it centered it self correctlyTi is soft enough to adjust once th engine will be running if not perfect.
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 New seals,Corteco 42x58x9 (16 with the lip ) part number :SFRDRWX2 BAVISL I2 CFW
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 The Renault UN1 tool Laughing
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 The opposite to the nut


>>>
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 Original position of differential before flipping:play between teeth: 0.12 to 0.28mm

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 flip differential for suiting vanagon
I'm using the timing tool for diesel for it,mounted as I can:not bad!!
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for this test,I didn't press the bearing all the way (the tranny is supposed to be perfectly symetric,but in fact it's not perfect:sometimes you can be lucky,sometimes not:when I first closed mine,it was too stiff)
A spacer thickness tool to measure the spacer thcickness that I should have,while having the correct play between ring and pinion.
I found 0.6mm,so it will be same adjustments as Renault 25.

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I received shims from Delorean for adjusting that,but the minimum one given by factory manual,is too thick:1.2mm.The I.D is also too big,but manageable.
I found my stuff in the recycle bin.


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 1"1/2 fitting to mark the inside diameter
For outside diameter,I used the Delorean washer.
Then eyeballing both together
Tools used for it:
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I had to trim a tiny bit the I.D.

Redbull is 15/10 mm,so I used 2x0.15 and 2 others a little bit thicker,coconut juice.Total is about 0.6mm

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 Nice,isn't it?

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 do not forget the magnet
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 some sealant

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 torque pattern closed

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 This is tricky to put back on it.

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>>>
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new gasket

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 I've noticed bearing are greased from here,I have to make a hole on the adapter plate,it will be better.

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 I had to cut some bolts to the right depth
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 The disc that sells SC at 69$^is at 47.62$ at clutchmasters,part number is 99251N

I can't buy flanges for the Vanagon in UK,they don't have paypal,too expensive otherwise....http://www.gtoracing.co.uk/parts.html

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Last edited by ALIKA T3 on Mon May 31, 2010 8:41 pm; edited 2 times in total
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member


Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
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 Subaru left ,smallcar/VW Right
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 New silentblocs,cut to fit.
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 some inside decoration

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 Gauges in metric,that I couldn't find in the USA,brought from a friend recently from France:made in California :2gunfire:

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 I found this nice little thing,did an adaptor for it:nice Wolfsburg castle,enamel with a little chip....

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LED for the Westfalia lamps,that were using a lot of juice!!!
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've asked a machine shop to do some custom surf rack,adjustable in heigh ,3 positions:lower as possible,maximum with minimum clearance for opening the skylight,and a middle position just in case.

Worst machine shop ever,those people are blind.I'va argued so many times,that my girlfriend had to solve the problem with them because I was reday to punch the guy.Stupid and lyer as fuck!!!

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 90° angle?they don't know that!Luna is on the roof at the company shop
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 15° angle on the roof.
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Recessed part for better strenght when very high
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 Backing plate SS,SS metric bolts
1"5/16 nickeled bar,I stood on the middle of it,155 pounds:good!!! tsunami proof

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Some restoration here also.

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 I had this for free,almost new,it's just the 3rd time i'm working on these....
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 Fixed with a 4mm bolt

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cable is in 2 parts
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 RH on left LH on right ,some minor modifications by VW between old and "new"
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 bronze balls in new one
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 epoxy,like new
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 yep!!
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 there is an angle for that,that why it was slow after my last repair.... Embarassed


I worked on big project:fixing the actuators for power lock.....
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There are brushes inside the electric motor,like in a starter:easy to open and clean to renovate!! (no pics,sorry)
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 I did new springs with copper wire,the other ones were rusty to dust!!
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Spring has to adjusted:not easy to reproduce....
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 cleaning,greasing
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 a new condom for it
Now everything works!!!


The propane valve was leaking,the last thing to not have had problems on that tank Evil or Very Mad
-
"Hello Manchester Tanks, I want a 1986/87 valve" Razz
-"we don't do it anymore,but we can send you a form to order a complet new tank" Mad
-"yeah yeah....good day!!"

I've been on propane manufacturers catalog,and order one that was looking the same,with no security on it (their 2007 tank didn't have that device,but they didn't want to sell me the valve anyway:different, mister!!inside welding bla bla bla)

I'm a plumber,I'm not scared of gas.
I've ordered one!
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Hello little sister!!!
Sherwood brand,like original.
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 Ok for the next 20 years Twisted Evil
My fridge is working everyday since almost 2 years!

Sound proof rubbers
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 rusty....
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if it was not an original equipment,you'll have to bent the brackets,chassis is not the same
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 then without the angle,it's hard to reach,so I drilled 5.jpg]
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[/url] here it is!!!

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some decoration

I receive nice part from http://burleysmotorsports.com/ a very nice guy with how I exchanged some ideas .
Fuck,Audi V8 discs don't fit
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I needed Audi 200 discs,but I couldn't find them drilled....not the same offset
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52mm bowl,too deep
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Caliper brackets have to be mounted on the inside part,and machined.Machine shop fucked up my parts,soI have to find another set....
New seals for Audi reear calipers
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Some paint
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This is related to my project
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 Cool
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
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 A special handle for my girlfriend Laughing
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm working on a junk Wolfsburg Vanagon as a template to adjust things and make mistakes.


I backed up the engine 10cm,cut the second selector shaft that is not used at the nose cone.I hammered the body wall.


Starter is going nicely on the subaru and also the SC hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.Lucky!! Very Happy

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Muffler look like will be tight :will have to cut skirt....and maybe lower the whole exhaust sytem with spacer on cylinder heads...



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 Some marriage

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 Starter will be tight here too...
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 10cm backed up engine


I don't like the angle that will have the driveshafts,they will be maxed up!!

Ok,fuck it,I'll cut the crossmember,I don't want that angle on the driveshafts.


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 hole saw 6"
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 reciprocating saw
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 seen from underneath
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 I didn't cut front part of crossmember:don't need,and will be stronger this way.
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Ugly cuts,but I don't care for now.Junk Vanagon.
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 I did a swing for moving the engine forward,original spot ,since I don't have proper jacks and working in dirt...
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 For the next head gasket,it's gonna be easy!! VW ones are a pain in the ass to do,that's the reason why I switch to Subaru Cool
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 tranny nose cone
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 this will help me realize a fiberglass cover.
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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I worked on the urethane bushings from Powerflex.


Pull out
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 then cut it .

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I used some dish soap,you have to put the bottom first,then lock it with a prybar,nail puller,then pull the rod towards you while prying.Easy!!5 minutes.I couldn't find better,I lost 40 minutes on the first one,then found this idea,killer idea!!!
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Here it is!!
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I also did the steering rack

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 Old bushings were looking fine prior to removal

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 cleaning with copper fitting brush
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 shiny!
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 One of the washer was worn,and the rack and pinion body is aluminum!!!Cleaned them
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flipped it,new life
I'm sure a wider washer would preserve them better,the back side of the bushing was looking in better condition.

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ALIKA T3
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Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6360
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
ALIKA T3 is offline 
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I started to do the mount for the tranny
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 not perfect Vee,but ok.


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 I found this nice sewer machine on the curb,still works perfectly,even the lights are good!! For my curtain projects.
I received these also:
Heat gun,mounted differently that it should be,to stay parallel to the vents.
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I found a right side mudflap also,free,but in bad condition.

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 I've asked a machined shop to correct the coolant manifold that smallcar sent to me:they screwed me good on this one:there was a core for it,and I didn't want to pay extra 20$ to have mine returned,that is supposed to be the same,right?
O'ring contact on the manifold was corroded,it would have leaked,and the little metallic pipe is corroded at the tip.Fuck,mine was like new!!
Here is the one I sent:
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 the hybrid flanges ,first version

before the welder fucked up everything.....

With no french part available here,I found that I could put Delorean flanges ,108MM with T4 CV joints,33 splines to suit Vanagon on tranny side: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4602232

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 VW piece of flange,to see clearance for the cv joint:not that much!!!

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 I cut the linkage for shifter

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 I needed a piece of 3" square tube,impossible to found here shorter than 20'....
My boss has an old weight bench,he doesn't want to give me the piece I need Laughing I went a the recycling facility to steel one,seen this pig,cruising!
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 I found the exact same piece as my boss,he thought I stole it from him,so funny!!! Laughing
I had to cut the ends to release the solid iron pieces inside:so heavy!!
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 That could be a perfect coupling!!


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some drillings for the new crossmember

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 perfect piece of square tube for a bracket
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 A seat tube from a bicycle will do a perfect coupling while adjusting the linkage definitively.
Length is adjustable,spining too.



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 Delorean flange 108mm

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I feel a dry bearing in this alternator,I want to rebluid it just in case.

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 2 threaded rods used to pull out
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 this one was dry!!!

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 The big one was still good,but will be replaced anyway.
BIG:6303D
Small:B10-50D,the ring is not used in the alternator

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 brushes are old!!!

Hitachi alternator LR170-732C
23733-AA020 OEM part number for brush holder assy
Hitachi part number for it is :13275

http://www.wagneralt.com/visions/default.asp you can find stuff here for part numbers.
I've ordered bearings online for nothing here:http://www.hodgepodgeia.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3

I don't even know what is doing that store,but prices were good.
I've ordered 2 skate board bearings also for the sliding door.


I'm tired to crawl under the van on the dirt to make the tranny mount,so I did a temporary one to make one on a workbench

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 Now I don't need to crawl like an asshole in the dirt anymore.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I took a lot of measurements on syncros and 2WD different models,my theory was to have a front Syncro shock absorber reduced 45mm to the bottom.Custom made.

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 It wasn't broken when I replaced the shocks in 2008!!

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 I didn't see that either
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 Same part number,left is syncro,25 years old.... right was new in 2008.

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Took a look here to know if I will need the spacers when I'll replace the swaybar bushing.
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 I took a look at it,I knew it was looking bad...they all die this way,angle is not good,not square with arm travel....worst on syncro!!
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 unhappy

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 left: syncro spring original,right westfalia original
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 lets see on the 2WD
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 I compress at 230mm,common measure on all vanagon,between top lip to bottom of spring.
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 difference between bolt holes:45mm;yeasssssss,yessss,I'm a winner!!!!Theory was good!!!
I took a pair of arms to rebuild them with Burley's bushings
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 drilling,reciprocating saw:I know how to be brutal!!!
Burley kit is waiting closely
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 3 little points on one side,to stop spinning?

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 this is not clean from factory
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 filled it down
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 cleaning old rubber remained
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 POR-15 paint:that stuff is great!!! Shocked
Ready to exchange with mine the day I want to!!
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D Clymer
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ah, now you're getting to the part I'm interested in - the transmission conversion. I was wondering how you adapted the tranny to the Subaru engine. Now I see, the Renault transmission has a removable bellhousing just like the VW 091. Looks like you've used a Smallcar conversion bellhousing adapted to the Renault transmission. Clever idea!

So is this transmission out of a Renault 25 or a Renault Alpine? If it's out of a Renault 25 (front engine, front drive), how did you reverse the direction of the output shafts. Is the differential flippable in this transmission?

What kind of gear ratios does this transmission have? Are they going to be a good match for the Subaru EJ22?

What type of shift linkage does this transmission use? Is it a standard rod setup, or does it use cables?

How about drive axle orientation? Were you able to get the axles perpendicular to the tranny case, or did you have to mount the tranny rearwards?

This is a cool project. We don't have late model Renaults here, so these components are unfamiliar to most of us.

Keep the details coming about the trans conversion. I'm interested, and I'm sure the other people who have viewed your thread are too. Smile

David
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
D Clymer wrote:
Ah, now you're getting to the part I'm interested in - the transmission conversion. I was wondering how you adapted the tranny to the Subaru engine. Now I see, the Renault transmission has a removable bellhousing just like the VW 091. Looks like you've used a Smallcar conversion bellhousing adapted to the Renault transmission. Clever idea! Thanks.Yes,the adaptation has already been done on VW tranny,so because I'm using the same bellhousing face contact (SC),it's like doing the same work as with a VW bellhousing. Cool

So is this transmission out of a Renault 25 or a Renault Alpine? It's from a R25 GTX.The gear ratios are under the model UN1-03,as there are many different types of UN1. If it's out of a Renault 25 (front engine, front drive), how did you reverse the direction of the output shafts. Is the differential flippable in this transmission? As you didn't see written in red previously with the picture,I flipped the differential.The Alpine model wouldn't need to be flipped.I had to figure out how to adjust the play between ring and pinion (is it "backlash" in english?),the previous people who did flip the differential on this conversion never had such problem:once flipped,mine was incredibly stiff to rotate,and not because of the differential bearing preset (new bearings)You can't cheat on the preset nuts,there is only one on one side...
Once you know it,it's easy to work accordingly to it,but when it seems you're the first one to have noticed that shit,it's hard.I spent hours on that problem,trying to understand.It is not supposed to be adjustable with some shims behind the differential bearing on one side,but they do it on the Alpine models.From factory you have some inscriptions carved on the ring to determine with a formula the thickness of the spacer shim you need.As it was not an Alpine model,there was not such valuable information on the ring.... Crying or Very sad
here is the english manual for the tranny. www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/gearbox_manual.htm

What kind of gear ratios does this transmission have? vwt3fordv6.web-log.nl/vw.../renault_un1_info_03.pdf ,look under 25 GTX Are they going to be a good match for the Subaru EJ22? I guess so,people are mounting it with a 1.9TDI 90 and 110 HP,It should work with a 136HP Subaru engine.If not,I'm fucked big time Crying or Very sad !!

What type of shift linkage does this transmission use? Is it a standard rod setup, or does it use cables? It depends on the car where it comes from,but I will reuse the VW system,shorten as you may have seen on the pics.I will bolt the VW gear selector lever (the one with internal splines and a plastic white ball) on the piece of selector on the UN1 tranny.Cut the extra lenght,that's it.The gears grid will be like with the 5 speed Vanagon tranny,but I think reverse won't be in the same spot,it will be facing 5th if I remember well.A guy in UK has done it recently with uniballs,but I don't like it.looks ugly.I would have done an inverter under the vanagon for the shifter,to have speeds with 1st on top left on the shifter,but too long too do,I'm used to 5 speed tranny on vanagons,not a problem for me,it's like Ferrari also,right?? Cool

I'll have to create a system to secure the reverse,maybe reusing the lock device on the nose cone with a long bicycle cable running to the dash.I'll see.Some people don't do it,but I'd rather have it,specially if my girlfriend has to drive it.

How about drive axle orientation? Were you able to get the axles perpendicular to the tranny case, or did you have to mount the tranny rearwards? basically the same spot almost,specially if you don't back up the engine.Even engine backed up it works but angle is bad. I plan to do some off road a little bit,so I want to preserve the drivashafts...

This is a cool project. We don't have late model Renaults here, so these components are unfamiliar to most of us. You have them on Lotus also,looks the same but stronger cases and metal for gears and shafts is stronger.Ratios longer andprice way higher!! Laughing There was many months ago a junk Lotus (Elise?) for sell 200$ on ebay,I'm pretty sure the tranny was the same.

You have the same transmission in the USA on Eagle Medalions manual transmission,1988,but with no more than 110000 total models sold,it would be hard to find one....take your chance!(it was the R21 badged for USA,a big failure!!)

Keep the details coming about the trans conversion. I'm interested, and I'm sure the other people who have viewed your thread are too. Smile

Thank you,I will! Wink

David
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syncroserge
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Shocked and double Shocked

I just read the whole post...my eyes are burning...GO Alika!!

Since the diesel pump holding with wire you know I have been a fan Laughing

"That's the home in where I still lives today,and my daily driver. "

Send me an email address in private message, I have a song I think
you are going to like.

Serge
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
syncroserge wrote:
Shocked and double Shocked

I just read the whole post...my eyes are burning...GO Alika!!

Since the diesel pump holding with wire you know I have been a fan Laughing

"That's the home in where I still lives today,and my daily driver. "

Send me an email address in private message, I have a song I think
you are going to like.

Serge


Me? I don't know what you're talking about.... Laughing

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Back from Spain,spring 2008 on the "not-freeway":500km from home,the pressure in the injection pump was too strong,piston pusshed and broke the device behind the wire:huge leak of diesel,I had to fix it on the parking lot of the rest area.....

I like these 2 also: cut and drill through for the injection pump actuator,to fit the Fiat model
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or this one in Summer 2005 :head gasket on the parking lot in front of VW dealer during holidays,800 km from home with girlfriend and her brother....7.5hours non stop to fix it!!!argh!!!!
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I NEVER give up when I have a problem,which always occurs at the opposite side of the country.. Twisted Evil unfortunately.

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 this one is 2 days before leaving France,I was surfing in the south west of France,had to put the vanagon in storage in a barn.The oil pump sump had the pressure device stuck open,which was causing absolutely no pressure in the circuit for engine...I removed muffler and oil pan,heated up on the stove for dilatating the aluminum part to release the spring loaded device,stuck.
I had to drive only with hot oil,so it had to idle long time before I could drive.The day after,the solenoid went dead on the starter:my van was crying to not store it....

That's my whole story,always something wrong on my shit.
The only time I was stuck for good,was coming back from a 3000km trip,a connecting rod through the engine block....at only 80km from home:lucky!!!The guy who towed the van had a wrecked car,I wanted the engine,but then changed my mind for a 1.9TDI-M,so we went picking up the van and a friend took the engine for him.I could have replaced it in 2 days if so...
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 hard to fix that with epoxy putty Laughing
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 oil sump broken
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 piston destroyed
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syncroserge
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Laughing Laughing Laughing

The great english poet Keats said:

"A thing of beauty is a joy forever"
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I had this picture as my desktop for about a year...
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WBX man
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi,

I've also done the UN1 conversion, I was wandering where did you get the 108mm Delorean flanges, and what was the price ?
I've made a hybrid from the org. Renault and the VW flange.
_________________
2,1 DJ WBX Vanagon/ T3 with Megasquirt/ Renault-Lotus UN1 gearbox/ 320 mm AMG front brakes/ 280mm Eurovan rear brakes

My recent projects:
http://www.t3nettet.dk/viewtopic.php?p=6342#6342
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
after investigations,I discovered that DMC had used the previous version of the UN1,the 369 transaxle

I`ve read that people used the differential of the 369 with gears in a UN1 cases,so the chances that the flanges were coming with same spliners was big.
I called them to have the outside diameter,found out on the french DMC forum that it was correct,asked how many splines were in the CV ,actually they use 930 cv joints,but they didn`t know it!!!After talking,I found this.

http://www.delorean.com/store/c-385-4-7-0-drive-axles.aspx you cannot have a better price,65 usd each.

What type of engine do you have??

Bye
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
they have an online store in europe too Wink
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WBX man
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
That's just awesome, thanks a lot !

I can see you have had many of the same considerations as I had.
I guess Marciek was your inspiration to do this conversion as well ?

I've pretty much the same solution for the transmission as you, except I'm converting to cable shift mechanism instead of rod shift.

My UN1 conversion was originally intended for a supercharged WBX engine and still is but work, house renovation, kids etc. has really kept me busy for the last 3 years.

I’ve until now used a more or less stock WBX (code DJ; 112 hp) together with the UN1 and it is really too much for the DJ to handle.
In 5th gear @ 3000 rpm the speed is 120 km/h (75 mph)

To go 75 mph in a Vanagon you need approx. 60 hp available and for the DJ 60 hp @ 3000 rpm is a pretty high load/ very open throttle position.
I think in the near future (this summer) I will continue with the SC motor. I’ve got all the parts for it so it is just a question about getting the assemble work started Laughing

I'm looking forward to read about your UN1 experience...
_________________
2,1 DJ WBX Vanagon/ T3 with Megasquirt/ Renault-Lotus UN1 gearbox/ 320 mm AMG front brakes/ 280mm Eurovan rear brakes

My recent projects:
http://www.t3nettet.dk/viewtopic.php?p=6342#6342
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm working on rebuilding the starter.
Looks like it's a Nippon Denso model 1280007190 part number at Subaru is 23300AA220R1

http://www.wagneralt.com/visions/default.asp type the starter part number in the search to get the spare part numbers

68-8215 brushes

pdf with all the parts http://www.ennisproducts.com/cfmx/products/section.cfm?SECTION_NUM=2 click on "starter"

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 starter opened,bearings are good enough to be kept,they are not running all day long...
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 solenoid was apparently sparking,needs to be cleaned
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 I will replace brushes
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 the solenoid contacts have to be cleaned
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 Before cleaning and putting new grease everywhere
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 before
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 after

A good maintenance on the starter before it dies Cool

Last edited by ALIKA T3 on Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:58 pm; edited 3 times in total
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