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Porsche 930 CV conversion axle length?
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wolfgang,

the picture of the joint,the upper one is a 90mm,the lower one is a 98mm for syncro 16".

I've been trying for 2 hours yesterday to find out where to find an axle,impossible.

I'm gonna try to send an email to the supplier and ask for a refund and see if they can find me what I need.

I'm almost considering cutting them and make a good one with 2 axles Laughing

cheers
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an East Coast Porsche race shop turn axle shafts to my spec.
The last ones I had made were roughly $425 each.
Work like a charm and fit perfectly.

IIRC, Seth at H&R in Cali has done the same, but sold off his extras.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info!!

I give up on the Audi axles,I'm tired of having the wrong stuff which is impossible to source correctly in the USA.I lost some money on that shit,but I like to try Laughing

I'm going to buy a pair of 28 splines axles from appletreeautomotive,at 162 bucks a pair,23" long and cut a groove for the circlip myself,as well as the chamfer for the outer cv joint.

I'll let you know Smile
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool Man,
Sounds like a plan.
How are the waves Cool
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're awesome since yesterday Razz

I'm going back after work this afternoon.

I'm not doing shit on the van at this pace,between GF break up,going out,surfing,partying,BBQing.... Rolling Eyes

That'll be better after June 5th,the surf chick I hang out with is going traveling for 5 weeks,I'll be more serious on mechanic then Laughing
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, island life, I miss it Cool
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

update. I have about 10,000 miles on a set of Type 2 (aka Porsche 944 I believe) offroad Empi CV's using the recipe quoted below. Installed by Burley on the rear of my Tdi powered Syncro

The CV's are not recommended, they made noise from the beginning and have become exceedingly loud, and loose.

I have kept the Empi chrome molly axle, that burley cut the cir clip groove into, and have installed Lobro 944 CV's.

The star on one CV we cleaned and inspected had a big pit in it.. here are some pics.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Jon_slider wrote:
this post is not about 930CV's, it is about an alternative, using Empi torsional axles

---
from http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro/message/48433
Guys,
The Empi race-prepped CVs & Axles I have been testing with success are in the
stock 100mm size, not moving up to the 930s. This means no new stub axles or
tranny flanges & fully interchangeable with stock sized parts, if you do manage
to break one. This is the stuff I tried to get a group purchase going for, but I
only had 6 interested people & needed 50+, but prices are very reasonable at
this well liked online vendor:

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/susp/buggysusp%20IRS.htm

1st scan down to the 3rd item - IRS Race Axles. The size that fits our 14"
syncros is:
01-16-2212-0 21 3/8" AXLES,33 SPLINE, T-1 & 2 CV JOINTS, PR
To make these work better on a syncro, I recommend having an inner snap ring
groove added so they don't rub on your stub axles over time.

Then scan down to the 5th item - Type 2 Off-road CV Joints. There's only one
choice. The description is short, but looking these up in the Empi catalogue,
they are hardened steel outer & balls with chromoly cages. These have much
better max angle than stock & even better than the 930s.


==

I am also an empi dealer, if there is enough interest in this avenue of
upgrade I will put kits together and stock them. If it helps, I can also do
group purchases on this product or any of my other products and only need 5 to
call it a group, Let me know. Cheers Burley
www.burleysmotorsports.com
==

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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to know,thanks Jon Confused
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want a cheaper way to do this and can afford to space your rear hubs out a bit, Porsche Boxster S driveshafts will work.

I've taken this from my Lightweight Syncro project thread...




This is regarding drive shafts.

I'm going to be using after-market gearbox flanges and hub-shafts. I'm waiting for the hub-shafts to arrive from Todd at Avery's Aircooled Parts (http://www.averres.com/). Once they have arrived, I can do the final measurements and work out how much wider the rear track will be.... the reason for that is...

I'm using Porsche Boxster S rear drive shafts.

Now from the factory, the Boxster rear drive-shaft comes with a 108mm inner CV joint (which can be changed if it dies) which is the same size as the Syncro 16, uses the same splines and is physically the same size (width etc). The outer CV joint is similar to the front outer CV joint on a Syncro T3 but it is not meant to be removed from the drive-shaft. If this dies... you replace the whole shaft!! That's nuts to me but hey, if you can afford to run a Porsche everyday...

So, as I used to work on Porsches everday, I had a Boxster S come in with a dead out CV joint. As a result, I ended up with the old drive-shaft and decided to see if I could pull the outer CV joint off.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Remove the boot...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The pressing that the boot fits to is crimped onto the CV joint and needs to be chiselled off.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now the CV joint will move enough to get the balls out of the joint.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now you can get to the circlip and pull the rest of the joint off.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here's a Syncro 16 drive-shaft and the Boxster S drive-shaft next to each other.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Yes the Boxster S drive-shaft is longer.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that the spline length etc is the same.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Part number for anyone wanting to do similar things...

And here's the measurement as to how much longer the Boxster S shaft is.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The Syncro 16 is 524-5mm. The Boxster S is 34mm longer.

I'm going to be lengthening the rear trailing arms a lot... like almost 150mm longer. Yes I'm nuts and no it might not work but hey, there's only one way to find out!

As a result of moving the hub so much further back and after market flanges and hubs tending to be further apart, I won't need to go the full 34mm wider per side but probably around 15-20mm per side wider.

I want to go wider anyway as the front is going 35mm wider per side just to get the tyres to clear the suspension.

I was originally going to have some spacers made up to bolt between the rear hub flange on the arm and the hubs but I figure that I can simply add the extra width when I lengthen the arms.

If anyone else wanted to use the Boxster S shafts, you could just add a 35mm spacer between the rear wheel bearing hub. This would help with your CV joint angles as well.

I picked up a pair of Boxster S drive-shafts on ebay (with dead outer CV joints) for £50. They're cheap! and if the inner CV joints are ok (which they usually) you save money there too!

Bear in mind that if you use aftermarket flanges, the offset is less... i.e. the gearbox flange is closer to the gearbox so you would need a longer driveshaft anyway!

MG
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting experiment Cool Cool

I'm happy you gave us the 16" rear shaft length Cool

524 to 525mm versus the online kit for Type 2 that I bought (20.25"=514.35mm),10mm longer only,that's an acceptable difference in length in my opinion Laughing

Can't wait to see the result on your project Very Happy
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syncrogreg
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Porsche Boxsters has one short (left side) and one long (right side) shaft...
That might help.

GSB
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrogreg wrote:
Porsche Boxsters has one short (left side) and one long (right side) shaft...
That might help.

GSB


Incorrect.

Boxster 5 speed has unequal length driveshafts. The manual S has the same driveshafts each side.

MG
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Last edited by SyncroGhia on Fri Jun 01, 2012 12:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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syncrogreg
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Boxster S is my daily driver...

You might be talking of the old models then because after 04 all the Boxster S has unequal length and this is correct Laughing

GSB
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Totally depends upon year and model.
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FrankenSubySyncro
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For people using the syncro 16 front outers, does your boot clamp contact the lower ball joint? I am using the revised front outer that has the groove for the boot and it is rumored to have a larger outer diameter.

I had to grind off part of the LBJ for the boot clamp to fit. The boot clamp has come off twice in the last year or so. The last time was on my way to syncro solstice. On my friends van, he ground off too much and the LBJ exploded through the top while out in the woods.

Here is a pic of the CV (16 on the right, stock 14 on the left), notice the groove on the bottom.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FSS,
Yes they make contact.
I use DEI stainless steel tie wraps made for holding exhaust wraps inplace as my CV boot clamp.
I put them on and than give them a good whack with a brass hammer to flatten the tie.
They just miss when I do this and they stay put.
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have installed a few 16 outers and yes the clamp comes real close the the LBJ. I have gotten away with the factory pinch clamps by pinching it and at the same time whacking it with brass drift, but I think in some cases those stainless tie wraps insyncro mentioned would be a good alternative.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453711
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re driveshaft length on Boxster S manual cars.

I'm using 986 parts... As per the part number photo above.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These are the same length both sides.

You're correct Greg that the 987 Boxster has different length driveshafts.

Re Syncro 16 front outer CV joint clearance...

VW made a later Syncro 16 upright with more clearance between the bottom balljoint and the outer driveshaft. They came out some time in 1989 from memory.

As above, you can use 98mm outers on a Syncro 14 and the earlier Syncro 16 but the clearance is tight and you need to use low profile boot clips.

My Syncro 16 (Limey) had early uprights and now has 14 uprights and I'm still running 98mm outers.

MG
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

much respect to Syncroghia for sharing so much valuable info.

Update on my attempt to use Empi Type 2 Chrome Molly axles.

After removing the very loose, and pitted Empi Type 2 CV's, we installed Lobro Type 2 CV's on the Empi axle.

I then went to Big Sur, and broke the axle.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Im going with a stock 944 axle next. Reports from tdwesty, who also uses them on his SVX Syncro, is he has not broken any axles yet, only CV cages.

My axle broke, at the cir clip groove, as it unloaded cresting a hill. I don't know if the extra droop of the Fox Shocks contributed to the breakage. Though my wheel center to fender lip ride height is 21", my motor sits 2" lower than stock. So my max CV angle at full droop is just 18 degrees.

Or the axle may have snapped from having the shaft rotation direction reversed inadvertently when swapping in the new CV's. I don't know, and I don't know if the CV's were clocked.

I do know I won't be using Empi axles or CV's again Smile. Still resisting the expense of the 930's.. will report if the Porsche 944 (type 2) axles break. Or if the Lobro Type 2 CV's break.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon,

I would be very careful about bolting on a Porsche 944 axle. I would be very surprised if they are the correct length for the T3 Syncro.

Any incorrectness in length would put the CV joints into bind and they won't last as long as the previous setup.

No axle that takes this size of CV joints will be substantially stronger than the stock shaft so I would use the stock setup and save up for a set of 108mm CV joints, flanges, hub shafts and driveshafts.

Before you go buying Porsche 930 CV joints, I have used stock Syncro 16 CV joints (which are in turn, stock Audi CV joints) the whole time that I have offroaded Limey and have never broken a CV joint or shaft. They also have more angle than you can physically use... when I say this, I mean that you can drop off the rear shock absorber, allow the arm to drop until the driveshaft hits the arm and the CV joints are still not in bind. Mine are set about 3mm away from this so I use this much travel whenever I go offroading.

The only replacements I have made are from when I first bought the van and were worn out due to mileage rather than abuse.

Oh, I'm not sure if this has been covered but Porsche 944 CV joints run smaller ball bearings which allow the greater angle. The question as to whether they are stronger than stock T3 2WD/Syncro 14 CV joints is still one to be answered.

MG
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