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hillmotorsports
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: OBX SR Project Reply with quote

Almost 5 yrs later... any updates on the SR project?
Would love to see/hear more about spraying gelcoat, using the additives.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob: Please expand on this; with the tip drilled out to just over 2mm. I recently upgraded my finish gun to a DeV GFG-670+ ..and wanted to buy a 2+ to shoot these (new to me) sprayable body fillers, like Slicksand, but it looks like I could convert a cheap, gravity gun with a drill bit, eh? Easy as it sounds?

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didget69
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get busy, Vince!

I hope to do some glass work this weekend, if the temps will get into the 60's...

bnc
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 on what manxbuggy said.

I wanted to use the gelcoat because it is easier to fix if you nick, chip or scratch it. My blue Manx is done with clear coat and and is more difficult to repair. I have about 4 coats of clear on it (on top of the flake) and I can wet sand/buff it to some degree but not like I could gelcoat. As JustBuggy said it is thicker and you have more to work with.

I have chipped 3 places on my Manx and they were hard to fix due to the damage going down to the color through the clear and flake. Where as the gelcoat can be "dripped" onto the chipped area (then sanded and buffed level) and stay there due to it's thickness/viscosity. Clear coat on the other hand is like water and flows out of the chip and takes a lot of time and patience to build it up to it's former thickness.

I was not aware of the gelcoat additive when I did the blue one or I would have used the clear gelcoat like manxbuggy did.

Again awesome job on the Towd and if it ever warms up and stops raining here I will get back on the SR. I did get the chassis ready, got 4 bolt slots and have all the badges. I just need to get back on the body.
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JustBuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I was just wondering if it was any easier than full blown paint prep. Sounds like every bit the same, and if the surface was painted already even more work. Shocked

Any of the sprayable finishes must be used with full safety precautions.

I think that the advantage of gel coat is in the thickness of the film. It by nature is going to be thicker than the average coat of paint. This helps in the future if you need to rub it out.
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manxbuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JustBuggy wrote:
What equipment are you all using to spray gel coat? Pressure pot or siphon cup?

How thick is the gel coat in sprayable stage? Is it thin and runny like paint?

I'm assuming that to spray an entire panel or car with gel coat one would have to remove all traces of paint first, am I correct or can you spray over the old paint?

Applause


Thanks for the compliment. I’m not a professional body/paint guy, just stubborn with more time than $. And I wanted gel coat for my ‘restoration’. I have researched the net, but have not found much information on spraying gel coat, much less metal flake, other than as part of the molding process. Paint would have been much easier and less time consuming.

My answers to your questions:

*I used an ‘el-cheapo’ Harbor Freight HPLV gun, with the tip drilled out to just over 2mm. It taxed my 5HP 40 gallon compressor. I had to wait for air pressure to re-charge.

*The air dry gel-coat additive is much thinner than gel coat. I mixed them 50/50, so the resulting liquid was more viscous than paint, but not as thick as gel coat.

*Gel coat is incompatible with some other coatings, including ‘paint’. Application over an incompatible finish will result in a bubbley mess. I’d suggest doing some test panels at a minimum.

There is more detail on my experiences with spraying gel coat on my build thread, http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=423089&highlight=towd+restoration .

Also, a word of caution gel-coat/air-dry-additive spray is nasty stuff. Full protection (breathing, eyes, and skin) is a must. And your house will stink for a long time if you spray it in your basement! (Please don’t ask!).

Rob
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JustBuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to paint cars for a living. Did lots of glass work on Corvettes, race cars, and customs but never used gel coat. Your results look amazing! I had no idea that the gel coat could look so good being sprayed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What equipment are you all using to spray gel coat? Pressure pot or siphon cup?

How thick is the gel coat in sprayable stage? Is it thin and runny like paint?

I'm assuming that to spray an entire panel or car with gel coat one would have to remove all traces of paint first, am I correct or can you spray over the old paint?

Keep up the good work!
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!! Very Happy Very Happy
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manxbuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here’s the Tow’d wearing it’s new coat:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It’s a little cold here for gelcoating too. I used a couple of portable electric fan heaters to get the indoor temperature up to mid 60’s. They gummed up and went out during the shoot. I left the halogen work lights on over night to keep the initial cure temps up.

Again, thanks for the tip. The gelcoat-additive mixture sprayed and flowed out really well. I sprayed 2 coats of clear with flake, and 2 coats of clear in a 3 hour more or less continuous shoot. I’m confident the remaining surface flaws will cut & buff just like paint.

Rob
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob,
Glad I could help. It is a little cold here to be doing any glass/gelcoat work. Any pictures of the metal flake?

Louis,
I do not see why a tube frame would not work, there is a lot of room in the engine area for a bigger engine and suspension mods. Why not one more project, you can never have too many. Very Happy
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LouisB
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Vince,

You think you could put a full tube chassis under a SR? Because I don't have enough projects I have been thinking about a SR lately. Say 911 meets SR maybe. I am thinking something along the lines of a full a-arm front, Porsche irs rear, some 18s w/ 40s and a full on turbo motor. Think it would work?

--louis
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manxbuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

surfnc wrote:
Then I sprayed it with red gelcote mixed with Duratec Clear High Gloss Gel Coat additive. (Looks better in person)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This allows you to spray gelcote like paint and allows it to cure without a wax/surfacing agent. This is the first time I have tried it and I am very pleased with the results. I chose this path so that if I had any scratches or dings I could wetsand and buff them out. The Duratec gelcoat additive cost about $90 for a gallon and that is the smallest amount you can get it in but you can add it to any gelcoat color you want. I will use it for the interior. (black or gray still up in the air.)



Thanks for passing this tip along! I used air dry high gloss gelcoat additive this weekend in re-shooting metal flake on my Tow’d. It worked great! The spray flowed very well, and with much less shrinkage and orange-peal. And it dried without the usual gelcoat tackiness overnight.

My Tow'd progect:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=423089&highlight=towd+restoration

Thanks again!
Rob
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

surfnc wrote:
Thanks Louis, bring it up and you can check out the area while I finish it up in a day. Laughing Seriously I would be happy to help in any way I can. Let me know.


Careful what you wish for as I am take you up on that offer. Laughing

BTW, a certain blue metal flake Manx should be showing up in the next issue of Manx Mania.

--louis
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Louis, bring it up and you can check out the area while I finish it up in a day. Laughing Seriously I would be happy to help in any way I can. Let me know.

Thanks Jeff, I have everything to bring it back to what it would have been built as in 1970 except for 2 brackets that attach to the shock towers in the rear and an original hood badge. I can fab up the brackets but I am still looking for the badge. I will try to do a well documented assembly when I get all the panels fixed and painted. I even have the top and side curtains but they need a little glass work.

Thanks Bryan, the color is VIP Red gelcoat. I was trying to match the original red they came out with in 1970. It looks pretty close.

Thanks Murzi, unfortunately that is the only part done. I wanted to try it out on one panel before I committed to the whole car. I am taking a few days off this weekend and hope to get most of them done.

I will post progress.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vince...That is the best pic we get???? Come on man!!! Laughing Laughing

LOOKING GOOD!!!! LOOKING GOOD!!!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow - my old car is looking better!

What color did you end up using for the color coats?

bnc
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great Vince! Sure hope you share the assembly steps of your SR as it goes back togther. Every time I see SR bodywork partially disassembled, there seems to be more and more different parts!
Opportunity here to create an assembly guide - with what to watch out for, what mods to consider, etc.

Jeff
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Veddy nice! Can I just send the Manx to you for final body work and paint? Razz

--louis
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been doing some work.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Built up the fender roll to take the stress off the fender arch. This was probably caused by tire rub. I used some spare foam covered with wax paper as a backing and built up a few layers of 20oz glass to strengthen the area. I then sanded it to follow the curve.

I then sanded it down for priming. (All black paint removed.)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then primed with Duratec VE primer.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then guide coated, sanded, more primer, guide, sand.

Then I sprayed it with red gelcote mixed with Duratec Clear High Gloss Gel Coat additive. (Looks better in person)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This allows you to spray gelcote like paint and allows it to cure without a wax/surfacing agent. This is the first time I have tried it and I am very pleased with the results. I chose this path so that if I had any scratches or dings I could wetsand and buff them out. The Duratec gelcoat additive cost about $90 for a gallon and that is the smallest amount you can get it in but you can add it to any gelcoat color you want. I will use it for the interior. (black or gray still up in the air.)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
SR's aren't the 'goldmine' that everyone thinks they are.

bnc


Is any Dune Buggy a Goldmine? I love them and I think every person who posts here does as well, but have not seen one that I felt was worth more then $10,000.00. They are custom built cars, nothing "original" about them.
They are all awesome in one way or another but not the most expensive car on the road. Sorry, just my 2 cents, hope I don't upset anyone..
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