Flex Plate center blew out. Transaxle cracked. Pics. How to fix?

[damagd]

I heard some rattling while driving and then a loud kind of thud sound like something had broke loose and I had no power. Coasted to a stop and cut the engine and went back to inspect. Everything looked fine, but when I tried to start it back up it didn't turn over at all and I only heard the whirring of the flywheel and torque converter. Had someone else turn the key while I looked and the crank was not turning at all while the flywheel was. I put a socket on the bolt at the front of the crank and rotated it and it rotated it and felt as it should, but the flywheel didn't move with it. Any idea what could have happened? It's been single digits here in PA if that means anything. Getting ready to drop the engine to fully inspect, just wanted to get some insight first. Thanks.

[?Waldo?]

If it has a torque converter, it doesn't have a flywheel, it has a drive plate (flex plate) instead. If you have an automatic, then your thread title is misleading and misleading titles reduce the odds that the right people will respond.

I would assume the drive plate bolts snapped or came loose. You might not need to drop engine or trans. You can rotate the engine and trans independently to get the bolt holes to line up (Bentley 37.6), remove any broken off leftovers, replace with new bolts, motor on.

[Wildthings]

The torque converter bolts to the flex plate, there is not a flywheel as such. You can see the flex plate through the hole in the front upper left of the crankcase, which may or may not have a plug in it any more. If the flex plate is turning then the bolts that hold the TC to the flex plate likely backed out and you may be able to replace them in situ. If the flex plate is not turning then you are going to have to do a tranny or engine pull.

[damagd]

Yes, I'm sorry Flex Plate. I've edited it. And no, the FP does not turn when I turn the crank by hand. It turns with the Torque Converter when the starter is engaged. Yes, I'm going to have to drop either the engine or Trans. Which one is easier? Could all 5 of the bolts that bolt the FP to the Crank really have snapped? Is that possible?

[Jake de Villiers]

The centre could have broken out of your flex plate. Drop the transaxle, its quicker.
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[WestfaliaMike]

I agree with Jake, drop it. Thoes bolls are hard to get too. Use some loctite on the new bolts when re-assembling
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1983 Vanagon Passanger (Parts Vehicle)
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[IdahoDoug]

And when you torque them down, be sure you are aware of the error/misunderstanding in the Bentley regarding correct torque of these bolts. Do a search. Over torque these bolts and you'll be replacing a very expensive part....
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[damagd]

So I'm going to drop the transaxle tomorrow since it'll be pretty nice here in PA. Couldn't find a write up on how to do it. Does anyone know of one or some advice. Thanks.

[damagd]

An update. Looks like the passenger side lower engine bolt that the transaxle slips over, somehow worked itself the entire way out as you can see from the pics. Obviously the transaxle dropped down a little, pulling out the center of the flex plate. Now both sides of the transaxle that slip over the engine bolts are broken out. I have the one piece as it didn't fall out until I removed the TA, but the other piece is lost forever. Short of getting a new transaxle case, what are your suggestions? I was thinking of putting back in the one piece that broke out that I still have and putting a piece of steel across it with bolts through both it and the transaxle case and fabricating a piece of steel to replace the missing piece and doing the same thing to that side. MacGyver was one of the best shows ever.

[dhaavers]

Do the full McGyver if you're desperate, but you could easily replace your bad
bellhousing with a good used one from somewhere around here....just sayin'.

- Dave
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[ZsZ]

[danfromsyr]

you maybe could rig something from the lower differential pan bolts to the lower engine bolts to hold/pull the engine&trans together.. like a skid plate.
it's the fact that the engine was only held to the trans by the upper bolts allowed it to 'clamshell' and put undue twist on the flex plate..

if you need a AT differential section give this guy a call he's driving distance from Lancaster and has alot of parts, maybe has what you need.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1919335
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[tencentlife]

Make sure to check the seal hub on your torque convertor for any trace of cracking around the brazed joint, when engine and trans get misaligned for any reason a lot of strain is put on that hub and it can shear the joint. You should also be sure to replace all engine and trans mounts.

As for that broken bellhousing, I agree you're probably best off shopping for another trans, and of course you'll need another drive plate, flywheel seal, etc.

Don't forget McGyver was a fantasy, his jury-rigs only had to survive that scene.
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[Wildthings]

Watch the classifieds for a used differential. If the ring gear looks good the unit is probably good. You will want to fully reseal the final drive though which is a bit technical but can be done by anyone if they use enough care.

If you opt for a replacement torque convertor, you want to use the "Z" or "H" torque converter from a later Vanagon and not the earlier AC version.

[damagd]

Awesome suggestions. Thank you. Checked the seal hub on my torque convertor . Looked good. Never would have thought to check there. My biggest concern with getting a new/used case is transferring everything over and the technicality/time involved. Love the line about MacGyver's rig's only having to survive one scene. Great perspective check.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

had a car we sold at the dealer. some auction pig. it broke 3 flex plates before I got it.

the dowel pins to keep the trans and engine in line were missing. moral of the story here is if you can't properly align the engine and trans you will be doing this over and over again.
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[danfromsyr]

on the VW flat 4 the alignment is set by the little ridge that rings the bellhousing.. so that should still align the center line fine.
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[skills@eurocarsplus]

[?Waldo?]

Full engine torque, inertia, gravity and shock loads from bumps in the road are all acting on that housing. I can't imagine wanting to rig it considering the high cost of parts and labor if it were to fail again. It could easily take out the engine also next time. The time to rescue the van, pull the trans again, etc... along with the stress caused by knowing a cobbled solution could fail are all things to factor into your decision. If it were mine, I would at minimum replace the diff section and more likely the entire trans just for ease of work.

[damagd]

Yeah, I've abandoned any hope of trying to stitch it together and am leaning towards just getting a whole new transaxle (probably from GoWesty), as the Transmission has over 200k on it and leaks anyway, but i will do a quick search to see if I can find a Differential case somewhere first.