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badsix
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:04 pm    Post subject: deflector plates Reply with quote

we just had an engine built for my boys 65 bug its a 23 somthing. anyway their are no deflector plates under the cylinders and we arn't running heater box's so do we need these deflectors. Confused
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need them.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: deflector plates Reply with quote

badsix wrote:
we just had an engine built for my boys 65 bug its a 23 somthing. anyway their are no deflector plates under the cylinders and we arn't running heater box's so do we need these deflectors. Confused



If you are talking between the cylinders and the push rod tubes then YES, you must have them. If you are talking about the "snow tin" under the push rod tubes that normally bolts to the case and the heater boxes, then no, you don't need them.
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
we just had an engine built for my boys 65 bug its a 23 somthing


i guess I could kind of agree with Roy... especially since "engine builders" feel the thermostat isn't necessary.... nah, still can't agree, better to run it than not.... Glenn can show you a picture of the proper industrial tins needed when using J-tubes.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can use the square plates between the oushrod tubes and cylinders or a "super tin" that sits in the same place but brings the air all the way around the cylinders. I always liked the little square ones as I saw less wear on the pistons and also the tin under the pushods off the heater boxes to protect the pushrods from any debris on the highway.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


those are also very nice, but I think the piece in question is the little piece that goes between the cylinders.. THOSE pieces are VERY important.. they keep the circulating air between the cylinders where it's needed..

the pics you posted are excellent for those of us without heter boxes, but MANY engines run without tin there just fine with no heat problems..
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vwsb74
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


what do you call those plates, what is the part number?thanks
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tattooed_pariah wrote:
the pics you posted are excellent for those of us without heter boxes, but MANY engines run without tin there just fine with no heat problems..


In response to this:
bugninva wrote:
Glenn can show you a picture of the proper industrial tins needed when using J-tubes.


Many run with other tins missing and are just fine. but if you have a hi-po engine you need all the help you can get.
badsix wrote:
its a 23 somthing.


My 2180 does not need a secondary oil cooler and temps never exceed 215F.

I contribute some of that to having all the tins.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
My 2180 does not need a secondary oil cooler and temps never exceed 215F.


yeah but you live north of the Mason Dixon line. Some of us poor folk have to put up with real heat.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Quote:
My 2180 does not need a secondary oil cooler and temps never exceed 215F.


yeah but you live north of the Mason Dixon line. Some of us poor folk have to put up with real heat.

Tomorrow it will be 78F here. In Sacramento it will be 79F tomorrow.

1 degree Wink
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
SGKent wrote:
Quote:
My 2180 does not need a secondary oil cooler and temps never exceed 215F.


yeah but you live north of the Mason Dixon line. Some of us poor folk have to put up with real heat.

Tomorrow it will be 78F here. In Sacramento it will be 79F tomorrow.

1 degree Wink


Here tomorrow it will be 91F and will be 96F on sunday.... I'll rest *easy* driving my vw... even when I pin it and build the boost up... the factory cooling system does it's job very well, and not just "fine" like the folks without claim... Been there, done that, and had the problems to show it... then again, lots of folks think that it's "just how vw's are" when, really, it's just how vw are when they aren't "right"....

Glenn, not every one understands... Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugninva wrote:
Glenn, not every one understands... Wink

It took me 40 years of working on VWs to understand how critical all the tins are. And if I had the Samba back then, I would of spent a lot less on broken/worn parts.
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
tattooed_pariah wrote:
the pics you posted are excellent for those of us without heter boxes, but MANY engines run without tin there just fine with no heat problems..


In response to this:
bugninva wrote:
Glenn can show you a picture of the proper industrial tins needed when using J-tubes.




ahh, sorry about jumping in then Smile
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Low67vdubinnocal
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have close to the same headers and could not find lower tin that would fit or work with my headers. I would also like to know where that came from and what the part numbers are. It's not that hot in Sac. yet but it will be soon enough.
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I posted this in a similar thread

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416096

Type III "cool tins" can be used in a pinch but must be modified for upright engine use.

I used this in a pinch for a customer who did not have ANY other tin besides the cool tin and his exhaust would not allow the use of sleds, so this modification was forced into use.

Before/After:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


He did not have the small rear finger tin so the sides of the type III tin provided the necessary deflection the stock one would have provided.

In a situation where no sleds can be used (merged header/baja) this mod is worth it. If sleds can be used stick with the stock square deflector tin and the industrial tin or heater box.

Here is the industrial tin template

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=401943
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are Type 3 tins and are designed to work with the Type 3 fan.

They are not designed for a Type 1 upright engine.

You can get reproduction industrial tins from Gene Berg and from Awesome Power Coating.

http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/Industrial_Shields.html
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pupjoint
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got these repro from Awesome Powdercoat

Clark is a top bloke!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Those are Type 3 tins and are designed to work with the Type 3 fan.They are not designed for a Type 1 upright engine.


derluftwagen wrote:
Type III "cool tins" can be used in a pinch but must be modified for upright engine use.


Its better than not having the diverter plates at all. I do understand they are for use of the large type III fan that pushes air horizontally and these tin help direct the cooling air vertically from top to bottom. The reason the modification took place was the kid who owned the car already had the tin, had no more money AND there was no parts house open at the time of repair which needed to be done so he could drive to work in the morning. Surprisingly, the engine ran cooler by a few degrees after install (via VDO gauges) before any tuning took place.

If possible I always recommend stock tin but in some situations header design and intended use will not allow this. The fact that he was also missing the finger tin and could not use sleds did not help cooling. Modifying the tin in such a way as to simulate front and rear finger tin as well as removing the vertical bends from the tin caused the center of the tin work the same as the stock square plate. In fact, the type III tin has a smoother transition of air due to the "ramp" built in to the center of the tin compared to the stock tin where the air "hits a wall" before changing direction. In my experience this works well in situations listed above and if I had a testing lab I would get some data on its true efficacy. Has Raby done any testing on cool tin with this type of modification??

Those who criticize must remember that not all VW owners are over 50, have a good job with a ton of money to blow, have a back up car and have the luxury to sit at the computer all day. There are hard working kids (and adults) who have to use what they have and do their best to keep their cars alive.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: deflector plates Reply with quote

badsix wrote:
we just had an engine built for my boys 65 bug its a 23 somthing. anyway their are no deflector plates under the cylinders and we arn't running heater box's so do we need these deflectors. Confused


Seems confusing to me and I am not sure which tin's your talking about. Now the thread has morphed into discussing many different tin pieces.

If your missing these under the cylinders/head... your going to need to take that engine back to the builder and get them to make it right. They screwed up big time.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If your talking about the lower curved sled tin or other then that's different.

Taking a picture of your engine from underneath would really help out.
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