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My new baby, 1975 Westfalia.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 10:17 pm    Post subject: My new baby, 1975 Westfalia. Reply with quote

I hope this is the start to a long and informative string about my soon to be cruising bus. In early April I picked up a 1975 yellow westfalia, with a 2.0 fi 78 engine. It ran, although with a bit of a backfire, and drove (the POs father drove it around the block the day before I picked it up.

First of all, thanks to all of the regular posters, over the last year during my quest for a bus, there was so much to learn, and 99% came from The Samba.

On to my bus, Picked it up in Victoria BC, from a young couple who no longer had time to keep it up. The last trip it took was out to surf in Tofino, and on some of the hills, they noticed a loss of power, and some backfiring. They towed home, and it sat for a year before the advertised to sell it.
Over the past 2 months i have been going through it with a fine toothed comb and trying to correct/fix/adjust/tighten everything that needs it.
I have done the push rod tube seals, all of the lower engine oil seals, shift bushings and some cosmetic things etc and of course the fuel lines. There was a spun off exhaust stud on the 3rd cylindar, and some noticable blowby. Drilled, tapped replaced,and with newer heat exchangers, the exhaust portion is ready to go. (hoping that the blowby was the cause of the backfiring issue)
Next issue is getting the charging system up and operational. I have a new fully charged battery, and reasonable condition second battery that is not yet connected.

I will try to add some photos. but my first question is about the voltage regulator, and I have read the 40 pages reffering to voltage regulator, charging system, wiring, alternator, ^%$$ wiring etc. If I missed something please point me to the search.

My current unit is a smaller black plastic square solid state job, that accepts the connection from the alternator, screwed to the firewall normally grounding by one of the screws.

I noticed a spark at the terminal when I initially connected the battery (to the correct posts) and noticed that the alternator heats up, and crackles a bit (no key in ignition). Checked a few connections, disconnected the radio, replaced the battery bulb in the instrument cluster (burnt out) replaced the ground strap at the transmission, etc.
I have ordered a new OE regulator from Cip1, as I think the solid state unit is toast.
My question is about the wiring at the regulator harness, mine has an extra tail attached to the brown wire about 3 inches from the regulator, that was linked to the ground screw on the firewall. Is this normal, PO fix botch/bypass job etc. does the brown wire provide a ground, should i leave it unconnected with the new regulator?
I have a photo and will post soon.
Thanks in advance.
Craig.[/img]
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)
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FlowerPowered
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 12:10 am    Post subject: Re: My new baby, 1975 Westfalia. Reply with quote

Quote:
I will try to add some photos.

Yes indeed, a picture is worth a thousand words...or about 497 in your case. Laughing
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Last edited by FlowerPowered on Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:01 am    Post subject: Re: My new baby, 1975 Westfalia. Reply with quote

Welcome!

Skipro wrote:
I noticed a spark at the terminal when I initially connected the battery (to the correct posts) and noticed that the alternator heats up, and crackles a bit (no key in ignition). Checked a few connections, disconnected the radio, replaced the battery bulb in the instrument cluster (burnt out) replaced the ground strap at the transmission, etc.

Craig.[/img]


Wow!, that's not good, does the plug at the regulator make a spark when you connect it? Does the alternator sizzle and heat up when the regulator is disconnected? Sounds like your alternator may have an internal short, remove it and make sure no wires are touching the inside of the cover and have it tested while it's out. Something like that could cause backfiring and lack of power if the bus is still fuel injected.
The brown wire sounds odd, not super bad but it could be masking a ground problem elsewhere in the system, if the reg and alt can't share a good ground in rare cases the reg may work the alt to death trying to reach a voltage it can't sense.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:16 am    Post subject: Got her started Reply with quote

Picked up a new VR, and noticed that the plug that i had an extra tail leading to ground is the one that is grounded to the VR housing, which is in turn grounded to the body by the mounting screw. That problem is solved.
Got a newer alternator also, 70 amp. and a new harness to connect it all together. Installed and voila, no heat in the alternator, no constant current draw from the battery.

Started the bus up for the first time in my posession, ran ok, hydro lifters sounded a little loud, but may need to prime.

New issue: Key in and on, bat and oil light illuminate, but the fuel pump also starts turning. I thought this innitiated with the starter? (one more click on the key). Seems to start and run fine. but when i turn the key off the fuel pump continues to run. I had to pull the lead from the pump to shut it off, and after 20 min or so I went to start it again, plugged in the pump and it didn't run until i turned the key on???

Could my Air flow sensor (fuel pump contact) be sticking on after the key and engine are off? or maybe PO botched wiring to get around it...
thanks.
Pics coming...
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drober23
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm...

The fuel pump should not run with the key off under any circumstances.

The fuel pump should run under 2 circumstances:
1) During Starting
2) While running (key ON, AFM flap open)

Examine the wiring to the fuel pump to see if it ihas been modified. The voltage to the fuel pump should route through the Double Relay. Sometimes people add a wire to get it to run if their double relay has failed. Look for a wiring hack under there somewhere.
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'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe, and some others...
(more busses than sense)

In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think the fuel pump issue is solved. I noticed in other's photos of the AFM in the intake that the arm that opens the contact for the fuel pump power was a little bent on mine, probably a po issue. I straightened it a little, so when at rest it released the contact for the fuel pump. Cranks a few more times to start, but starts nicely, and seems to idle better. And when the key is on accessory or run, no fuel pump power, and it stops running when the key goes back to accessory from running position.
Can't wait to go for another drive.

Changed the dipstick boot as I had the alternator out bit of a pain...., and installed a new alternator boot from the fan shroud to help cool it
Also on the weekend installed a new clutch return spring. Found an easy(ier) way to replace it also.

Also since I can leave the battery hooked up now thanks to the new VR and alternator. I was able to test the wipers, headlights, and turn signals, tail lights, and interior lights, all good.
Installed some foam weatherstripping around the heater box tubes and the engine tin, to seal it better.

Step 1. disconnect the clutch cable
Step 2. pry gently the old spring off leaving the arm attached
Step 3, pry on the new spring, each turn of the spring seemed to pop over the little retaining shoulders on the arm, and stay put. working from front to back, transmission side to drivers side.
Step 4. use a length of rope (1.4inch braided nylon i used) tie a loop around the "hook" on the spring, run the cord over the left rear suspension and up to the drivers front tire.
Step 5. Wrap the cord around the tire tightly, securing it in a pile where the tread meets the road.
Step 6. roll the van forward 6 inches
step 7. adjust the arm/spring relationship so the spring will clear the arm to the transmission side
Step 8. roll the van ahead another 6 inches, you will hear a click when the spring passes the arm.
Step 9. check the progress, adjust with a little pry here and there.
Step 10, roll the van back and remove the cord.

Step 11. reconnect the clutch cable and adjust pedal free play
Done.

Replacing the front and rear shift linkage bushings helped make reverse acceptable, hopefully this will help cure my noisy 3rd gear engagement.


Definitly been a productive first few months with Lola. Getting to drive her for the first time was amazing. Can't wait until tomorrow night.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:10 pm    Post subject: pics Reply with quote

Yosemite yellow 1975. a little damage where the PO smoked a yellow post in a parking lot on the passenger rear fender, exposing a little bondo...
http://cid-1a5b0cab257f2bb2.photos.live.com/self.aspx/Westy/IMG%5E_3258.jpg

Interior has a 3/4 blue plaid z bed, the cabinetry is not stock obviously, but I thought the blue plaid was only available in 74 and 75 in the full width bed? Also there is blue plaid up top and a blue plaid wedge cushion, but missing the side seat, and stool. Front seats are grey courdoroy. Look like westy seats but not original. and no headrests.
http://cid-1a5b0cab257f2bb2.photos.live.com/self.a...7F2BB2!137

Both the heater boxes looked like this, no tin, lots of holes patched by exhaust putty. not very airtight.
http://cid-1a5b0cab257f2bb2.photos.live.com/self.aspx/Westy/IMG%5E_3249.jpg

Think I need to invest in some vacuum hoses, notably a connection to the fuel pressure reg, etc.
http://cid-1a5b0cab257f2bb2.photos.live.com/self.aspx/Westy/IMG%5E_3244.jpg
http://cid-1a5b0cab257f2bb2.photos.live.com/self.a...7F2BB2!124

Still working on the embedding part.
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drober23
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cabinets look like the ones I have seen in Vanogon interiors. Maybe someone retro-fitted them to your Westy?

The 75 Westy would have come with a full width bed in the back. My guess is that the 3/4 bed you have may have been reupholstered. The reason I think this is that the small arm rests next to the bed are also blue/green. In other 74-75 Westys I have seen they are a solid color. Perhaps someone reupholstered the bed and arm rests.

The interior looks really good though!
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'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe, and some others...
(more busses than sense)

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Skipro
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you have just given me a great idea, i think since the arm rest is "historically incorrect, maybe the passenger side armrest was the original seat cover for the side seat on the drivers side. Since I still have the wedge pillow that would be the back rest, i can resurect the side seat with the material i have. Then create two new armrests with a similar solid colour fabric.
The fabric in the pop top bed is equally as good in terms of age, so am verry happy to continue with the blue plaid theme.

I have since taken out the plastic stacking containers in front of the rear closet, and completely removed the sink, fridge, stove unit. I was poorly constructed, and hand painted white with a brush. Looked pretty bad. The wood on the inside of where the stove sat was sort of charred also, so it needed some additional heat proofing. Electrical was suspect also. Going to try to get a 74 or 75 driver side cabinet, a folding table or the seat for the drivers side, and leave the stove out.

Always something to do.
Cheers
Craig
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update so far.
I have replaced as many oil seals in the engine as possible without removing it. Steering wheel, fuses, headlight, all fuel lines including injector hoses, filter etc. Oil light and battery light work properly, and the alternator problem is no longer. Picked up two new RA08s in Seattle on a trip last week, installed and rolling smooth.
gave her a good wash with an abrasive dish pad to unstick the algea that tinted the paint, so she looks clean.
I deleted the rear driver's side passenger "smoking" window with a blank from the other side, and a newer seal, and replaced the rear window seal with a newer one.

So she starts (within 5 turns of the crank) idles beautifully, runs and shuts off when asked. Acceleration and cruising is a little rough, hopefully a valve adjustment will smooth this out (hydraulic lifters, "78 engine).

Still need to install a new bowden tube as mine has a crack in it, and hopefully some smoother shifting will happen. Change the tranny fluid once i get the 17mm socket. refurb the rear brakes, fronts look great (and stop well).
New speedo cable as the current one whines a bit.

I think the front shocks are past their working age, so hopefully will replace with some GR-2 kybs as per the raving reviews on the samba. rears I think are gone also, but the suspension seems to sit on the bump stops so there isn't much pitching or bouncing upon acceleration or breaking, on the list to change though...

Get this, there was an identical 75 westy for sale near where i bought mine in Victoria (100miles and a ferry from me in Squamish b.c.). Photos showed an awning, better bumpers, better blue plaid front seats, canvas, interior cabinets etc. Thought of picking it up for a parts car, but a lady on my street said she bought it the previous weekend (as she was looking at mine thinking she had found a needle in a haystack) It barely ran, didn't have any metal left in the bottom 6 inches all around, etc. etc. they bought it for their daughter for her first car (she is not mechanically inclined). So maybe it will fall in my lap 6 months from now when they give up....Owner was asking $500, sold it for $400. not bad.

Until next time.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:58 am    Post subject: Starting issues Reply with quote

I have searched and read, and read and searched on the samba, hence my job list below....at my wits end.

My '78 2.0 FI engine is having a hard time starting....The starter turns over only once or twice before the battery acts like it is out of juice....I can jump start it and it starts 100% of the time...

last few months

-cleaned battery terminals and connections, and tranny ground strap (actually have 2...)(the battery negative strap cleaning improved the starting for a week or two)

-new ignition switch and no change if i jump from + solenoid terminal to ignition terminal on the solenoid.

-battery tested good (mind you it was at canadian tire, and it is a 4 yr old eliminator battery).

-new starter as of yesterday, no change.

-jumped the battery cable from bat+ to solenoid+, no change

-new bosch 25amp hot start relay....-note-one of the spades on the relay looked like it either got a little hot or arced, as some of the thin spade metal was melted. replaced. Spade is the connection to the ignition on the solenoid(at the relay)

Once it starts it runs great....

is there anything I am missing.

I guess my next step is to replace the battery and all the wires/cables associated with it (relay wires also)...

Thanks Samba for getting me this far. My van has been insured this summer for the longest time in the last 4 years and I am really enjoying it. Please help me get it back on the road...
Craig
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you bought a cheaper battery, its probably a 6yr battery. Might need a new one. Maybe you can add distilled water if its low, I'd check that first and give the battery a good trickle charge.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:12 am    Post subject: Re: Starting issues Reply with quote

Skipro wrote:

I guess my next step is to replace the battery and all the wires/cables associated with it (relay wires also)...


Yep. I've had bad batteries test "good" many times. 4 years is a long time for battery life. Summers are hard on them (more so here in Texas).

Oh, and FYI, you might want to host your pictures here on the samba. That site you used is blocked for me at work. Might be for others as well. Smile

Good luck!
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: toast battery Reply with quote

Well after replacing everything in my ignition system accept the battery (tested "good" at crappy tire) I finally went to Walmart to test a theory. Bought the 41n and the van started up on the first crank.......problem solved even if it is only a cheap battery.

Thanks for your help The Samba
Craig.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Cam shaft lobe wear. rebuild Reply with quote

bus is a 75 westfalia with a 78 2.0 fi gd engine hydraulic lifters. lost compression on #1 cylinder to prompt the teardown.

I have stripped my engine down to the short block to do a top end rebuild and upon removing the pistons noticed some bad cam lobe wear. pics below

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


there is a big difference in the wear between the inner lobes (narrow lifter wear path that has pitting, and the outboard lobes (wide even wear that is smooth and shiny).

The pistons and cylinders looked very good, some oil infiltration but the pistons had no scratches, etc. and all the rings looked good. Cylinders still had slight hone cross hatches and were bright and shiny, indicating a recent top end rebuild...
here are the pistons: all 4 look identical, down to the carbon buildup placement and thickness etc.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Am I looking at a full rebuild now? cam crank etc.

Thanks for any advice.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:47 pm    Post subject: updated progress photo Reply with quote

to accompany my post above here is an updated progress photo.

everything white has been repainted, entire body inside and out has been painted (rattle can tremclad key lime green-surprisingly similar to Yosemite yellow)
adjusters in the beam, rear splines turned one inner.

Had it on the road for the summer 2014, for the first time since I bought it in 2010-pics in earlier posts.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


towing only because we were moving, and the engine was disconnected and the van was uninsured.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hard to see the cam. Maybe pull the lifter out and take a picture threw the lifter bore.
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 1:40 pm    Post subject: cam lobe wear-rebuild Reply with quote

Here is a photo through the #4 cyl exhaust (I believe). The wear looks worse to my eye through here then through the cylinder hole (other side of same lobe).

Thanks for any comments.
Craig
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Skipro
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 1:40 pm    Post subject: photo.... Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cam needs to come out. With that pronounced of a pattern. I would be willing to bet it worn beyond service.
You can take the lower end parts including the flywheel to a machine shop and have them Mic them.
Good Luck
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