My new baby, 1975 Westfalia.

[outcaststudios]

^ also be sure to bring the specified thicknesses and tolerances with you to the machine shop to save them the time of looking it all up. good luck, you must be excited to get it all re done
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'88Doka JX td
'69 westy
(rip)couple bugs
(rip)three type III"s
(rip) '81 vanagon
a bunch of french stuff,and 9 motorcycles.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2573791

[Skipro]

Finally got my case split. forgot the bolt behind the flywheel.

Cam lobes are very worn, and the cam bearings look like they have been eroded away. Could this be water damage? aluminum oxidization (bus was from Victoria BC, so may have had some salty air....)

All the parts are vw, not aftermarket, and are original part numbers, ie nothing oversized...

Looking at the Scat 25 for a little more power from stock, and will need a new gear I think.

Is it better to drill/tap the existing gear as it is worn to match the crank gear? How about the match of the cam to the cam gear for clearance for the oil pump-easiest to order them together?

I would assume if I replace the cam gear, I should replace the crank gear to match, and therefore the distributor gear, and crank bearings?

. Any benefit to straight cut gears for a camper/daily driver?

Thanks, for the previous comments and advice.

Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[nateairman]

I know nothing of the air-cooled engines but will follow along. Looks like work to me!
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Nathan
69 Westy "Pearl" Stock

[Skipro]

OK, quick update on this year and a half long rebuild. the shortblock is back together with a new cam, cam bearings, crank bearings etc.

Now for the top end, I have a new set of mahle 94mm pistons and cyliders and several heads in various needs of attention. Here is the question of the post:

I have 3 sets of heads,
1. the heads that came off this engine were ok, one damaged exhaust stud and a crack in the combustion chamber.

2. Second set came off a core i bought which have good combustion chambers (no cracks) but 2 exhaust studs to fix one f which was a pulled step stud, and these will either need a copper head seal ring or some metal taken off the face as the cylinder mates to the ring outside of the combustion chamber.

3. third set look the best (newest) but have 1 combustion chamber crack and 3 pulled exhaust studs.....
***NOTE : stud repair on any of these wil need welding....

Which ones do i use? to satisfy the budget the cheapest option is preferred but on this i don't mind spending a bit so i dont have to do it agian too soon

Thanks for any input. Camping season is upon us and i am sick of packing up the car and seeing the bus sit in the driveway....

Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Skipro]

Valve adjustment question.

I am buttoning up the rebuild and adjusting my hydraulic lifters/valves. when I get to 1.5 turns in from contact on the correct timed valve the adjuster is near the top of the threads, I know that I need to have the adjuster nut completely in the threads but is there a possible reason I am out so far? The adjuster screws are in reasonable shape, meaning I don't think I would get much more than a half mm of adjustment with new adjusters. My main concern is the relationship of the rocker to the valve tip, wear, contact etc.

Type 4 2.0 New CB cam, and hydraulic lifters for FI, new AMC heads, stock rockers/adjusters, chromoly pushrods.

Second Q: my rocker shaft assembly when I disassembled had 2 springs and one washer in between each rocker. I notice in the manual I should have 2 washers and one spring....best to switch to solid spacer for Type 4 2.0?

Thanks.
Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Skipro]

Anyone?.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Tcash]

If you did not bench bleed the lifters. Pull them out and bleed them.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-insta...%20lifters

Yes you need solid rocker spacers for a hydraulic cam.

Good luck
Tcash

[Skipro]

Thanks for the response TCash

I had the lifters soaking in oil for about 6 months, I tried depressing them prior to install and they were rock hard, no movement at all. I will pull them I guess and properly bleed them.

I don't sense any movement in the pushrod up to the point of contact, the 1.5 turn adjustment would theoretically depress the lifter before the valve spring.

My issue is the screw needs to be in too far and then the lock nut is barely gripping threads. I feel as though I need the opposite of shims, or longer pushrods to compensate. I am using chrome not aluminum pushrods, but can try a set of aluminum rods that I have (I believe they are longer).

Thanks again.

to be con't
Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Tcash]

[Skipro]

I have the OPPOSITE of this:

[img]http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?search_keywords=valve+adjus*+threads&search_terms=all&search_author=&search_forum%5B%5D=-1&search_fields=all&show_results=posts&sort_by=0&sort_dir=DESC[/img]

my nut is at the end of the threads, the adjuster is screwed in so far there are few threads left for the nut.

It seems to be on all valves, i.e. all the adjuster screws are relatively the same.

Hydraulic lifters, chromoly push rods.

"Not if the lifter is pumped up. It will depress the valve spring and open the valve. This is why you are supposed to wait until you can spin the pushrod with your fingers, before you turn the engine over. If the valve is hung open and you turn the motor. You can bend the valve."

I see. I thought the oiling was a squirt when the hydro lifter gets squished, this pushes oil through the tube to the valve train...

If the lifter wasn't stiff the valve would never open though, right...

This revelation leads to a new general engine question:

Q: how does the valve seat if there is positive pressure on the valve tip from the rocker arm/valve adjustment of 1.5 turns during power stroke...or is this preload absorbed by the mechanism and is used to reduce noise, etc.

learning every day..

Thanks
Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Skipro]

opposite of this:

take 2
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Tcash]

Q: how does the valve seat if there is positive pressure on the valve tip from the rocker arm/valve adjustment of 1.5 turns during power stroke...
There is no 1.5 turns of preload. Once the lifter bleeds down. Think of them as having no preload or 0 lash when the engine is running.

You need to look at your Rocker arm geometry.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200

Good luck
Tcash

[Skipro]

Next problem.

Need some experience based help please.

Rebuild completed, 2.0 FI '78 engine. I am trying to correct what I feel is a vacuum leak problem that is affecting my ability to time correctly.

When I time it correctly (static timed and then slightly adjusted to have 3000rpm at 28deg btdc) my idle is way too high ~2200 rpm with timing at 14deg btdc at "idle". Timed this way the engine feels very powerful, and runs well, just very high at idle...

When I time the engine so the idle is 900rpm, the engine feels very sluggish, still runs well, but no power at all.

I have my idle screw all the way in. I have hose clamps on all hoses and intake runner boots. Injectors and intake manifold bolts are tight, and there is slight vacuum at idle, and considerable vacuum at high rpms...

What am I missing.

Thanks in advance.
Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Tcash]

When was the last time you lubed your distributor.
Lubing the Distributor

An air mattress pump would work to.
Finding vacuum leaks with smoke (smoke test, tester)


Good luck
Tcash

[Skipro]

Thread resurrection time....

Continuing on my rebuild journey. Rebuild completed 2 yrs ago. Documented above. (new cam (stock with bold on gear), old crank and rods, new pistons and cylinders, AMC heads). 1978 GE 2.0 FI

Ran great year 1, started loosing power year 2...seems like the valve lifters don't pump up.

Engine sounds like it is running on 1, maybe 2 cylinders...blue smoke from exhaust, would have thought rings, but comp test is good... I have a borescope and looked in all cylinders, no noticeable hole in a piston or issues with the valve heads, cylinder scoring,,, although the resolution was not great on the video,

I have removed the lifters, primed and reinstalled, also change lifters from CB perf ones that I ordered with the cam, to original FEBI I believe...

Valve adjustment goes well after priming the lifters (removal, disassemble, prime and replace).

Run for 20 sec (on 2 cylinders) then dies, check the valves and all the lifters have bled out. no pressure...

My next 2 options are 1. some sort of internal cam issue, thrust bearing wear altering the timing of the cam vs crank...or 2. faulty ignition system...coil?

My tests:
Starting using the key in ignition, so i think the ignition switch is acceptable.
new cap, rotor, wires, plugs
Oil is full+ 1/2 litre, 5w40, new filter, no metal in the oil change.
Compression test 145-155 in all 4.
petronix removed, points installed so I can confirm at least static timing.

As always thanks for any insight!

Craig.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[Shonandb]

Good to see you are back at it.

If you have spark at all 4 cylinders, decent compression, ball park timing, fuel flow, and air flow - it should run.

It sounds like a fuel issue to me as well as restricted oil passages as you've tried 2 different types of lifters with the same result. How's your oil pressure?

Anyone else have any ideas/theories on why the lifters are not pumping up/staying pumped up?
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76 Westy with a 2.5L Subaru SOHC + Vanagon (010) Automatic Transaxle
Build & Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=758760
Previous 1973 Panel Bus:
Click to view image

[busdaddy]

[Skipro]

Thanks for the replies.

Oil light goes out after it starts (no oil pressure gauge) And by starts i mean it sounds like it is limping on one cylinder, possibly 2. And lots of blue smoke (not explained by the compression test results...)

The second set of lifters were new, laser etched with Febi on the collar.

I bought the best ones they had (CIP1) because I thought the original new set from CB Perf were faulty (possible diagnosis)(rebuild included a CB stock cam)

1 × C24-043-109-309-SET (022109309 043109309) - GERMAN - SET OF 8 HYDRAULIC LIFTERS - 18-2000CC - BUS 78-79/VANAGON 80-91 (ALSO THE MEXICAN 1600i ENGINE WITH HYD/LIFTERS) - SOLD SET OF 8

New possible issue. Crank shaft (fan pulley) can rotate ~4 degrees on the scale without resistance. I would estimate about 3/8". Thrust bearing play, spun bearing, or bad fit with crank and cam gear?

-cam looked good through the lifter bores, old lifters looked good, no spiraling on base, wear etc...
-I have tried wiring the plugs 180 out. And plugs forward 1 position and back 1 position...
-Removed distributor to confirm 12 deg and small offset position.
-Static timed to light just turning off turning distributor, which coincides with timing mark on pulley at 7.5 deg and #1 plug at rotor.
-lifters have bled down again, but have tried to re-preload by finger touch and 7 of 8 seem to be just no tension at all.

Trying to test everything before i pull it and tear it down again.

Again, thanks for any and all help!

Cheers
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)

[busdaddy]

[Skipro]

seemingly anywhere in the rotation. I went out this morning to confirm this. If I do it quickly (move back and forth in this 3/8" of free play) it sounds like this causes some play in something internal, possibly the interface between the crank and cam gears...?

The fan (bolted to the crank) itself doesn't move inline with the crank, i.e. excessive end play.

I had the engine out years ago to correct a rear main leak (seal not installed deep enough), and checked end play at the time, and rechecked....so I feel the end play is within spec. I have a dial gauge.

Thanks again for the help.
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Yosemite Yellow 1975 Westfalia (78 2.0fi)