Fix that Poptop push bar!

[Ahwahnee]

[Vanagon Nut]

[kguarnotta]

ok - here is an update from my realm...

I took my caliper to the existing tubes and holes.

Original Pushup bar
ID - 16.6mm or .655"
OD - 20.4mm or .803"

1/2" EMT
ID - 15.7mm or .625"
OD - 18.2mm or .710"

1/2" Rigid Electrical pipe
ID - 15.6mm or .615"
OD - 21.27mm or .837"

3/4" EMT
ID 20.88mm or .822"
OD 213.5mm or .926"

So 3/4" is too big, 1/2" too small. Rigid pipe is a lot closer, but still not quite there.

I am going to see my local welder this week, and see what he can do. If he can repair existing pipe, then I will just make a UHMW washer to fit it. Based on the feedback I'm hearing here - it should be easy for the welder to fix this.

Welder/Mechanic - says that given the fact that the bar was cut all the way through - I'd be better off using a new bar.

As for those bushings at ace hardware - I saw something at my local hardware store, but they were aluminum. I'm going to try to check another hardware store today.

**
After talking to mechanic/welder - this is the direction I think I'm going to go - please let me know if this is a big mistake, or I'm missing something?

Cut two welds at existing coupling, weld on new 3/4" couplings on either side. Install new CNC cut UHMW material - with holes to match diameter of rigid emt (or should the holes be a little bit bigger?) The coulpling ID is .941", so there will be some slop between bar and coupling, but I don't think that matters. I think the only contact point that is important is where others have installed washers? Do I have that right?

_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[kguarnotta]

I finally have some pics of my repair. in the interest of molesting my van as little as possible- I used the 1/2" EMT. I machined a couple pieces of UHMW and screwed them to the push up bar pivot point. I also sanded, primed and painted everything Light Machine Grey - rustoleum color. Originally was a shade of brown (see above pics). That spring is crzy strong - as evidenced by the thing popping when trying to install again. I ended up using that wrapping tape that is like saran wrap to hold bar in the bent position.

A question - when the top is up, I see the cable looks loose, is that normal?

_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[Vanagon Nut]

Because the springs are not compressed when top is up, it's normal for each cable to have a little slack.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[kguarnotta]

ok - does the slack in the phot look normal? I don't remember it being that much, but I can't recall exactly.

This is why I need 2 vanagons - so I can compare...
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[Ahwahnee]

Not dead tight, but perhaps less slack than what yours has:

But I don't know that that's a problem if the top operates correctly.

What happened to the 'foot' on yours? Removed for some reason?

[kguarnotta]

yes, the 'foot' was removed, because this is a conversion of some sort. The previous owner who did the work added some angled steel to support the upper platform, and this would interfere with the feet.

I think I may have made the pushup bar a little too narrow because I've now got a little more interference than I remember when these go down. I'll try to take a pic to show you what I mean.
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[MarkWard]

[GreggK]

Could anyone tell me if there are any plastic parts involved with the original parts inside the joint on the push bar? I looked through this thread and it didn't look like it but I just wanted to ask.
I started to disassemble mine to powder coat it but then just thought to leave it all together. I just don't want to melt anything.
Thanks!
_________________
'86 2wd Poptop transplant
FAS TDi engine swap. Peloquin LSD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692188&highlight=slow+but+steady

[MarkWard]

I don’t remember any plastic parts. Above a member used plastic as a bushing support.
_________________
☮️

[GreggK]

Thanks Mark, I still may disassemble it anyway but I've had bad luck with getting things back together lately.
_________________
'86 2wd Poptop transplant
FAS TDi engine swap. Peloquin LSD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692188&highlight=slow+but+steady

[MarkWard]

Can you sand it and rattle can it? I prefer the galvanized look of my 82 vs the chipped paint look of my 90. I’ll probably get a can of galvanize look paint and make a quick project of it.
_________________
☮️

[kguarnotta]

Mine did not have any plastic parts inside initially. I added some UHMW bushings, so now it does have that inside.

I'd say if you were going to have it powdercoated - you have to take it apart anyway - go for it. Just take lots of pics/label the pieces, so you can get it back together ok.
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[johnbyrdgates]

I searched the various domestic vendors and haven’t found a repair kit available for this problem. Has anyone found one other than the German bearing fix? It’d be nice to have consistency in our solutions for posterity...
_________________
1987 2.1L 2WD Full Camper Kerouac

[charleslabri]

Thanks for this btw. I was in the process of painting the bars, and ended up welding a soffit like you all had in this thread.
Killer.

[Pcforno]

Here’s my simple solution. Everything can be bought at ace hardware.
Mine carries 20mm ID brass bushings with an OD of 24.
24mm works out to nearly exactly 15/16 of an inch. So I bought a step drill (Milwaukee) that has a graduation for 15/16, as well as the brass bushings.
Drilled out the center, bushings were a perfect press fit.
Sanded and highly polished the push bar and JB welded the bushings in place. Very smooth operation. Cost about 10 dollars.

[Vanagon Nut]

^^

I did a similar fix some years ago using 3/4" copper pipe. IMO, with no added assists, those parts see a fair amount of physical force and possible lateral play/movement while lifting the top. I added medium strength Jack Bombay assists early on so that may've staved off wear at the copper bushings.

My bushings likely came loose early on but they worked for some years and saw lots of use. But IMO, even if I'd used a similar amount of epoxy as you show, they still would've come loose relatively early on.

For POV, the copper pipe was likely not as thick as the bushing you show.

I epoxied a length of bolt metal into each end of the push bar so my guess is I would likely have been 6' under before the parts wore out to the point of being dangerous. (I've since welded in steel in lieu of those bushings)

Neil.

I don't know when these bushings actually came loose but they sure saw some wear

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[GreggK]

Hey you were right kguarnotta, it wasn't hard at all to disassemble and reassemble the push bar. Hardest part has been trying to find new pins and retaining rings to match the old ones.

_________________
'86 2wd Poptop transplant
FAS TDi engine swap. Peloquin LSD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692188&highlight=slow+but+steady

[kguarnotta]

Looks good.

I couldn't find pins or rings to match, and ended up going with regular pins and cotter pins...I think some were generic ones with multiple holes from local hardware store, that I had to cut to length.

Let me know if you find the right ones.
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper