Fix that Poptop push bar!

[GreggK]

So far I'm going the clevis pin route for the mounting brackets. I reused the bigger "stop" pin and found the correct new retaining ring. I went to https://www.mcmaster.com/
They have just about everything. There is an huge selection of pins but no the exact ones like the originals. Go browse that site but be careful, you'll find things you never thought you could buy.
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'86 2wd Poptop transplant
FAS TDi engine swap. Peloquin LSD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692188&highlight=slow+but+steady

[GreggK]

Here are the pins that I used to replace the originals. They are 1/4" diameter clevis pin, 1-1/16" usable length, 1-1/4 actual length w/hairpin cotter pin.

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'86 2wd Poptop transplant
FAS TDi engine swap. Peloquin LSD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692188&highlight=slow+but+steady

[kguarnotta]

Looks nice - did you end up getting them powdercoated?
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-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[deadaheadub]

I need to figure out a repair on my own. Sooner rather than later, methinks.

_________________
Grateful daily,
Ryan
______________________________________
Past loves: '65 Bug, '70 Westy poptop, '64 Squareback project, '76 Westy tintop "Loose Lucy", '76 Westy tintop "Sharee"
Current:'84 Westy poptop "Ramblin' Rose- Rosie" w/ 2003 Subaru EJ25 conversion

[deadaheadub]

For those of you with experience disassembling this: does it make a difference as the repair progresses, if I remove the bar and mechanism by first popping the top completely and bracing it up with a 2x4 or whether instead I zip tie the two bars compressed together under full tension with the poptop in the closed position? thanks
_________________
Grateful daily,
Ryan
______________________________________
Past loves: '65 Bug, '70 Westy poptop, '64 Squareback project, '76 Westy tintop "Loose Lucy", '76 Westy tintop "Sharee"
Current:'84 Westy poptop "Ramblin' Rose- Rosie" w/ 2003 Subaru EJ25 conversion

[Vanagon Nut]

Assuming the cable at each side (each set of arms) still functions.....

Top down, arms strapped then removed, you need a way to safely release those straps.

Neil.
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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[deadaheadub]

[fxr]

When I did mine I reckoned it was far easier to remove it with the top open. You need the tension removed anyway to get it all apart, plus you can get at all the screws very easily.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[Vanagon Nut]

[deadaheadub]

If I only want to remove the push bar without taking the whole assembly apart and off the van, is that possible to just unscrew the nuts and bolts attaching the bar to the assembly at both ends? Thanks

_________________
Grateful daily,
Ryan
______________________________________
Past loves: '65 Bug, '70 Westy poptop, '64 Squareback project, '76 Westy tintop "Loose Lucy", '76 Westy tintop "Sharee"
Current:'84 Westy poptop "Ramblin' Rose- Rosie" w/ 2003 Subaru EJ25 conversion

[kguarnotta]

I don't think so-
I believe you will find that the groove cut into your cross/push up bar is so deep, that it will prevent you from pulling the bar out - without a lot of wiggling jiggling and hammering (based on your photo). At least that is what was required of mine.
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[dgbeatty]

It is possible with forethought, 2 supports and 4 clamps, to center the upper and lower rods. It will be faster and safer to remove the entire assembly though.
Fully! raise and support the top. Remove the 4 pivot pins and it will fall off onto your head. If you do decide to remove the brackets, highly recommended, install 4 rivnuts so you do not need to remove the spice rack and trim again to gain access to the 4 loose nuts. Also a good time to install rivnuts for the upper bunk hinges as well as at least 1 or 2 are most likely stripped out.
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Schau in das Buch

[pnwkayaker]

I completely agree with this comment. I'm in the process of fixing this poptop issue and found that, even after removing the whole assembly, I was not able to push/pull one of the 2 ends out (the other went out immediately).

It took me almost 30 minutes of pulling/wiggling/cursing to remove the end of the bar from the mechanism (the grove was stuck in the cross-metal bracket due to the cut).

[deadaheadub]

Thanks, Kevin.

[pnwkayaker]

Rivnut is short for rivet nut - essentially a threaded insert that's installed in a similar manner to a rivet (needs a different tool though). There're multiple sizes to choose from.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivet_nut

There're multiple methods to install a rivnut, although I'm a firm believer of using the tool made specifically for it (a search in Youtube for "Installing rivnuts" shows you a sample of all the different methods).

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=installing+rivnuts

I've used rivnuts to install the truck mirrors and the ABS door panels in my Syncro, they're amazing; Dgbeatty comment just gave me a couple more targets. I believe they're easy to install, very strong and give lots of flexibility (to install/remove/customize any installation).
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87 Syncro Westy EJ25 ("Tardis")

Seattle Meetup at Marymoor (link)
A collection of Simple Useful Mods (SUM) (link)

[deadaheadub]

Thank you!

[deadaheadub]

Ok, update to the problem.
I was raising the top to start to remove the whole assembly when part way up, there was a *snap* and the bar was cut all the way through on the driver's side, so the cross bar doesn't go through the side mechanism any longer. (see top photo).
What's the best way to proceed now? Still try to remove the entire assembly, or do I now have a new problem that complicates this?
And is there a way to have something welded on to the end that sheared off to make the cross bar still functional? thanks

left side

right side

_________________
Grateful daily,
Ryan
______________________________________
Past loves: '65 Bug, '70 Westy poptop, '64 Squareback project, '76 Westy tintop "Loose Lucy", '76 Westy tintop "Sharee"
Current:'84 Westy poptop "Ramblin' Rose- Rosie" w/ 2003 Subaru EJ25 conversion

[pnwkayaker]

I wouldn't try to keep pushing the roof up at this point.

1 - use zip ties (or similar) around both arms so that when you remove it the cable will not try to expand. I'd also try to lock both arms together around the pivoting point so that things don't get out of wack

2 - remove the bottom arm from the bracket (leave the bracket in place, just remove the locking washer not he side of the tent)

3 - remove the top brackets from the roof

4 - I believe it's possible to fix it - see the post by kguarnotta in the previous page of this thread (don't know how to link directly to posts),

Good luck!
_________________
87 Syncro Westy EJ25 ("Tardis")

Seattle Meetup at Marymoor (link)
A collection of Simple Useful Mods (SUM) (link)

[deadaheadub]

[pnwkayaker]

Since you said that you were able to raise the roof with no problem, I think that if you get people to help pushing up on the roof while you're raising it up and immediately brace it, it would work.

As you raise the roof, you're actually reducing the tension in the wire (since it's fully extended). If you're able to fully raise it and brace it, then there shouldn't be a problem removing the assembly at that time.

I wouldn't' try to just pushing on the bar to raise it since most likely the other end is in a very similar situation - you might risk it to breaking in a similar manner and the roof to fall down (that's why I think you need one or 2 more people to help you push on the roof).

Have your brace ready before you start raising the roof, I used a piece of wood of aprx 42 inches long situated in the center (you can use 2 braces if you want to be double safe).

And it you want to be triple safe, get different braces lengths all the way to 42 (like 20, 30, 42 inches) so you can put intermediate braces as you raise it.
_________________
87 Syncro Westy EJ25 ("Tardis")

Seattle Meetup at Marymoor (link)
A collection of Simple Useful Mods (SUM) (link)