60 Single Cab Build-Pics

dreadnotmusic · Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 3:26 pm Post subject:

My goodness you work fast! Awesome use of scrap metals too. I'm always complaining about the price of steel for my projects. Maybe I just need to do some dumpster diving!
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66 Riviera

TinCanFab · Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 3:33 pm Post subject:

Yeah, it's just that you have to be on the lookout for the right kind of thicknesses and flexibilty of the metal. I've used about 6 2 lb spools of welding wire and left over vw metal from other projects. It's all motivation in knowing you can spend money on the parts that NEED to be new, and get creative for stuff that can b used. I find I'm spending most of the metal working money on grinding, cutting, and sanding discs.

I'm the type of guy who really needs a plasma cutter. I'm ready to graduate from handcutting everything. I think it's important to learn how metal behaves by hand first, though.

I saved $600 by making my own treasure chest floor, but you have to be willing to spend 10 hours trimming it down, transport, having friends to help, etc.. I chose the time route instead of money. I bet this is how guys like Gerson all got started.

I don't have pics, but I have a core engine and about 85 percent new or good used parts ready to go in as well. The chassis is getting blasted and everything sprayed w rust bullet.

I also broke my knee very badly last year. I have designed a hybrid cable/hydraulic clutch setup for my disability using a vanagon master cyl, totally non hacked. I'll get pics of that together as well.

aa390392 · Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:19 pm Post subject:

you know your a very crafty old school typ of person your father granfather would of been very proud of...that is all very much a compliment in the highest regards..its a pleasure watching you work. and create. You know the term "when life gives you lemons"? well my friend you dont make lemonaid, you make Lemon meringue pie! keep posting and kudos to ya!
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getting grumpy & less tolerant!

55 ragtop
56 delux sedan
56 Kabriolet

Malanthius · Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:57 pm Post subject:

I love what you are doing! Im working on my 57scab and doing some same things. I started attacking my wheelwells today. I have a question. I see that you cut the outer panel above the inner well. Did you re-weld this well back to the outer panel? (spot weld) I was thinking about replacing the panel all the way up above the inner well to replace some damage. Just wonder how much of a pain its going to be. Keep up the good work!

Scott

TinCanFab · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:07 pm Post subject:

Malanthius, I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly. I see the p.o. cut out a reinforcement rail behind the outer skin. It was cut out a long time ago. I had a 67 with cut wheel wells too. Not sure the differences between the years. I'll look closer to see what was cut out. A rectangular piece going left to right, box shaped, was hacked at some point. When I pull the tranny to rust bullet the underside, I'll get in there and weld the rail back in.

Malanthius · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:25 pm Post subject:

TinCanFab · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:33 pm Post subject:

I know which one you are talking about now. I thought I remembered seeing the p.o. cut them right underneath that seam. They weren't cut out quite as high as some others. I think they basically cut right under that seam as a template. The arches they cut were too nice to have been eyeballed.

Malanthius · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 4:48 pm Post subject:

TinCanFab · Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:47 pm Post subject:

$4. Harbor Freight tools, they are called butt weld clamps. Mine are .040" thick. Your filler should be less than 1/8" thick, if you have to glob more than that on there, you need to do some shrinking to the metal. There's different ways of doing this and I am still learning. Check out the body work forum. Just make sure when you start welding, you practice methods that keep the metal from warping. Otherwise the whole bus will be wavy as hell.

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 8:42 am Post subject:

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:13 am Post subject:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It's amazing how much dirt is inside your frame rails

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:30 am Post subject:

Engine Lid:

This is the first time I've been able to see the decklid on the truck after fixing the hinges. It looks to be the original one. Dents and creases line up with original paint on the body and apron. It looked pretty straight until I mounted it

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:31 am Post subject:

I had to cut the bed framing open and fish the threaded hinge plate out with a magnet

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 10:45 am Post subject:

Driver Dogleg:

Its a lil wavy because of the monstrous tire size it has. Probably pulled hard on the lip and stretched it a bit

Malanthius · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 1:45 pm Post subject:

Looking good! I was able to stitch weld my drivers side wheel well last night! I have to say I'm pretty proud of myself having never MIG welded before. No gas used and was a harbor freight one I borrowed from a friend.

Question? Are you filling in the welds compleatly? Or will there be pin holes that will be filled with body filler? If so what would be the biggest holes I should leave? Anyone feel free to answer. Smile

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:33 pm Post subject:

Yes, I've been filling all the holes completely. I just lost the pic of the dogleg patch that was finished.

Also, technically MIG means metal inert gas welding, which is a wire feed welder. If you didn't have a gas bottle hooked up, it is probably set up for flux core wire.

When you say "pinholes" do you mean that there are pinholes in your welds?? That is a sign of contaminated weld and needs to be redone, it is no good. If this is the case, you MUST have gas shiedling your welds! Don't mean to sound like I know it all, just trying to save you the headache of brittle and weak welds. You need either an inert gas or wire with a chemical flux inside to keeps contaminants out of the weld puddle while it cools

Malanthius · Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 6:44 am Post subject:

No the welds are good. I meant the spaces between the weld points. I keep jumping around to try to avoid getting the panel too hot. Im afraid to get a real bead going. So my question was, do I just keep jumping around until there are no spaces left? I think it sounds like the answer is yes. Very Happy

Got the passenger side on last night. They both seem very solid with some good penetration. Im going to go over them today and fill in the spaces. Your SC is coming along nice!

TinCanFab · Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:20 pm Post subject:

Inner Driver Door:

Someone cut out the support piece for the door lock linkage. At some point duct tape was used to try to make it work. Nope. This finger keeps the actuator rod from bending side to side when you pull the inner door handle.

Passenger door-what it's supposed to look like

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:34 am Post subject:

Cleaned the pedal pan and painted it. It was loaded with spray on undercoating

TinCanFab · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:36 am Post subject:

Rear Outriggers:

Both were completely packed with dirt!


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