Syncro :want mine lower

Sir Sam · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:41 am Post subject:

For me the syncro is not about the added height, its about the added traction for 4wheeling.

The idea behind lowering it is that you will still have the ground clearance, still have the traction, but you will have a lower van with a little bit better handling, lower wind resistance, etc etc.

My thought for lowering it was to simply remove a coil, I ghetto solution I know, but it could work out just fine.

Custom made springs progressive rate springs could be a good option as well.
_________________
'91 Carat Westy

87' Syncro + '87 Westy conversion coming soon

240Gordy · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:35 pm Post subject:

morymob · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:28 pm Post subject:

morymob · Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:43 pm Post subject:

I'm not going to do ANY cutting etc, just bolt on's & removals (keeping any parts). It took me too long to find this one so no butchering will be done.I studied the bottom side today and did some comparisons with the Westy i also have, i may be biting off a big chew trying to lower some, but it would be nice for my needs. Still, gonna do more studying, usually takes me a while to get it all worked out in my mind. Thanks for all suggestions. By the way it came from Washington st so may explain the solid body.

Sir Sam · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:11 am Post subject:

Sir Sam · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:11 am Post subject:

RGS Paul · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:28 am Post subject:

Sir Sam · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:31 am Post subject:

jeffklein · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:17 am Post subject:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Problem solved.

VisPacem · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:31 am Post subject:

SyncroGhia gave you the answer, springs from a Blue/White Star. It's sometimes funny I have a BlueStar and would rather have it sit higher
Smile

_________________
LG aka VisPacemPB, *The* party Pooper

No Regrets (Nothing to do with Vanagons)

mellow cat · Samba Member Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 236

interesting?

is was as low as the front suspension could go before producing camber. was not too bad for smooth roads, but a bump in a high speed corner was not comfortable and often times I would break traction. Good for track and SoCal roads only. I also worried about my wheels and I got tired of slowing before every nook and cranny.

This is what I settled on, H&R purples, plenty stiff, good compliance on spirited back road driving, no worries.

I have never been able to get this syncro, slammed or otherwise to handle the way I did a 2wd. Don't get me wrong, this van handles better than I need it to, but I am not as comfortable at high speed when I break traction. Gathering it up after a slide is not like the 2wd I built before it.

Opinions, while people seem to have to share, are pointless unless you have something good to say. BTW I do have a lifted Syncro for wheelin' I like them both for totally different reasons.

I will be very curious should you elect to go airbags? I have been in a few van with airbags and I think the thing I like best about them in the noise transfer from the road to the cabin. Very very smooth. I have considered, however 2 kids and my own business keep me from spending time or money on my projects. crap!

good luck.
mc

240Gordy · Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 3:10 pm Post subject: Re: little info

SyncroGhia · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:53 am Post subject:

Great info from Mellowcat, it's always good to see others have similar ideas Smile

I would look into a rear anti-roll bar setup aswell.

VW made one for Ambulances and I think you can still get a lot of parts from VW for it.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

taigagreen · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 3:24 am Post subject: Re: little info

SyncroGhia · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:20 am Post subject:

I've just remembered another rear spring you could try which might work... from a Eurovan/T4.

They're a bit shorter than stock 2WD but still have the weight rating.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

mellow cat · Samba Member Joined: September 21, 2006 Posts: 236

Thanks fellas, For what it's worth when the van was very low it was wearing 225/55/17. now it wears 245/50/16. Same wheel, TSW Hock, just different sizes. The 17's filled up the wheel well a bit better. In any case, I had custom sway bars made for my old 2wd with built n/a 2.0, however in this van I have a 7A 20v I5 from a 91 coupe. Because of the Exhaust i can't really fit a rear bar to it as the mount/frame is not accessable. I did have the exhaust changed a bit, now exiting from in front of the rear wheel and allowing a bit more space to possibly have a custom bar made to fit. But alas, kids/business=no time/money. I really shouldn't complain, I just turned 40 and I have my mid-life crisis vehicle already.

Oh, and on the rear I simply added "pirch spacers" to make up for the difference in ride height, still H&R's in rear.

Cool vans BTW, While I have and like campers, my heart is in the sport van.

arn't vans fun! 20 yrs of a primary driver, and I still enjoy every inch and minute of them.

MC

SyncroGhia · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:10 pm Post subject:

MC,

I spotted your vans a while ago with the I5 motor. Nice installs.

Do you have a load of photos hosted somewhere of each of your vans?

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

bd · Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 3:32 pm Post subject:

good question, but hosting photos of all of MC's vans would consume a significant fraction of the Internet.

and they're all sweet, too.
_________________
1990 2wd TriStar, Oettinger-tuned 1.6L TD

RJES · Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:45 am Post subject:

A very useful thread. Thanks. I have very little interest in other people's opinions of the 'whethers' and 'whys' of lowering Syncro's, but lots of interets in the 'how' part!
I'm currently looking into lowering my Syncro crew cab. I have a spare set of -30mm Caravelle springs, and also a spare set of -50mm (& long since obsolete) Prokect Zwo front springs.
Can anybody tell me whether cutting the bump stops down is necessary when fitting the -30mm springs? Also, if so, how much was it necessary to shorten them by, and is there lileky to be enough bumpstop left to be able to shorten them a bit more and fit the -50mm springs , but for the bump stops still to be functional (ish!). I'm forgetting the likely camber adjustment problem, for now (see below).
It'd be great if someone has tried this before, as I dont have time to try lots of combinations. Previously I had been planning to look in to getting some shorter front shocks made, but if it's possible to use the standard ones, that sounds good to me, even if it means not going as low.
Does anyone know whether the really low Syncro's pictured above were using shorter shocks - with any bump stop left? Or can you get that low using standard ones?

Camber adjustment:
Has anybody looked in to making new camber adjustment eccentric washers with slightly more offset? I guess the limit will be the 'width' of the long oval tube in the chassis which the top wishbone pivot / camber adjustment bolt passes through. My thinking is that there will obviously be more clearance in this tube than is used by the standard eccentric washers. If there happens to be a millimetre or two of spare room (possibly wishful thinking?), some eccentric washers with a suitable amount of extra offset may give a significant amount of extra camber adjustment. I regularly have laser cut parts made, so the washers would be a very simple part to make.
Has anyone got their front suspension in pieces now? If so, and they would be interested in taking some measurements for me, I'll send them a set of camber adjusting eccentric washers with more offset for free if there proves to be enough room for this to work. It'd be great to be able to find out without taking my suspension to pieces to find out. Thanks,

Regards,

Richard Jones,

R J Engineered Solutions,
Quality Subaru Powered VW Components
www.rjes.com
Tel +44 (0)1538 752243
Mobile +44 (0)7761 788669

SyncroGhia · Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 3:24 pm Post subject:

I'm resurrecting this thread as I'm considering converting (yes another!) 2WD to Syncro...

My Tristar 2WD Black Doka.

I enjoy driving it daily but we've just had one of our longest winters to date (it's still snowing outside!) and the van will only go where I want because it has winter tyres on. I miss the secure feel of 4WD on my T3s.

I don't want to go off-roading with this van so I don't want it high, or with big tyres, or with diff-locks.

I want 4WD and I happen to have a spare 996 C4 running gear set to hand (6 speed gearbox, propshaft and front diff inc VC) along with Syncro front suspension and a the remains of a syncro donor shell.

I'm running H&R -45mm purples up front so could run those on the standard syncro shocks.

Oh, I get to keep my current wheels and tyres as the Porsche system provides between 5% (at all times) to 40% to the front wheels and works by having between a 1-2% difference in front to rear tyre rolling radius.

I'll be doing updates on the Tristar thread in my signature.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD


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