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2 solar panel setup
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pjrae
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Joined: July 13, 2008
Posts: 155
Location: Joshua Tree
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hook up aux battery relay as per instructions. hook up charge controller to the aux battery. With a panel that size you could hook the charge controller output to both sides of the aux relay through an SPDT switch and change the current to your start battery on demand, if you're so inclined.
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Timwhy
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Joined: January 01, 2009
Posts: 3651
Location: Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WSideWitneSS wrote:
So far so good. I have the 50w mounted on the top and I can connect the 85w as needed. I also now have all 3 batteries connected with yandinas allowing all batteries to be charged via alternator, A/C, or solar. Very Happy Very Happy

I tell you...drilling that first hole in the fiberglass top is a heartstopper. I measured and measured and measured and was still scared. I think it turned out really well though.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Here's my rat's nest of wiring right now. I 'll clean it up pretty soon and hopefully find a better and more permanent spot for the terminal posts / disconnects.

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I plan on getting a panel this winter and install it in the spring. Where you have your panel
mounted is where I plan on doing mine as well. Do you have any pics you can post
of where you routed the wires into the van. Looking at all possible ways to route the
wires before I actually do this.
Thanks......................Tim
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teej
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Joined: November 26, 2010
Posts: 805
Location: Seattle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Looking at all possible ways to route the
wires before I actually do this.


FWIW, I followed the quick release lead of GW when I rigged mine, a 65w Kyocera panel. I fashioned some quick release hardware for the roof, and a 50' extension cord from 12-2 landscape wire, and some connectors a friend gave me that are from the RV/trailer world.

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The front rail of the panel secures snugly under the rubber padded, forward facing aluminum roof mount tabs, while the stainless steel bolts (tapped and screwed thru the rear rail of the panel) slide through the aft mounts, secured with a split washer and wingnut. I wanted some redundancy; even if a wingnut came off, I think the panel would probably stay put because of the way the tabs engage the front rail. I added rubber feet to the bottom of the panel to:

1. avoid damaging panel or poptop
2. allow clearance for the underside j-box of the panel
3. slight compression when fitting under front tabs so everything stays snug.

Slightly exacting getting the tolerances just right, there is some height adjustability in the rooftop tabs. Now that it is done it is very fast to set up, has not required adjustment, and has yet to become loose in any way. Took a bit o' figuring so maybe this might help someone else too. I bet there is a more elegant solution but I used what I had available.

The 12-2 landscape wire fits easily right out the driver door, doesn't get pinched when closed, and is sufficient for the length run and power of this system.

We liked the options for roof use, tripod use, and easy stowing for security when needed.

And I can relate to the trepidation drilling those roof holes:

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Looks like our tent (1986) is getting tired. . .
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sunseeker52
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Joined: January 21, 2010
Posts: 5
Location: tonga
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:55 am    Post subject: Solar on my Westy Reply with quote

Mounted one over the storage bin and the other using the existing roof mount bolt holes. I have solar all day,provided your parked East to West.[/img]
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Hallvalla
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Joined: May 05, 2009
Posts: 224
Location: Oakland, CA
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

teej wrote:
Quote:
Looking at all possible ways to route the
wires before I actually do this.


FWIW, I followed the quick release lead of GW when I rigged mine, a 65w Kyocera panel. I fashioned some quick release hardware for the roof, and a 50' extension cord from 12-2 landscape wire, and some connectors a friend gave me that are from the RV/trailer world.

The front rail of the panel secures snugly under the rubber padded, forward facing aluminum roof mount tabs, while the stainless steel bolts (tapped and screwed thru the rear rail of the panel) slide through the aft mounts, secured with a split washer and wingnut. I wanted some redundancy; even if a wingnut came off, I think the panel would probably stay put because of the way the tabs engage the front rail. I added rubber feet to the bottom of the panel to:

1. avoid damaging panel or poptop
2. allow clearance for the underside j-box of the panel
3. slight compression when fitting under front tabs so everything stays snug.

Slightly exacting getting the tolerances just right, there is some height adjustability in the rooftop tabs. Now that it is done it is very fast to set up, has not required adjustment, and has yet to become loose in any way. Took a bit o' figuring so maybe this might help someone else too. I bet there is a more elegant solution but I used what I had available.

The 12-2 landscape wire fits easily right out the driver door, doesn't get pinched when closed, and is sufficient for the length run and power of this system.

We liked the options for roof use, tripod use, and easy stowing for security when needed.

And I can relate to the trepidation drilling those roof holes:
Looks like our tent (1986) is getting tired. . .


teej, thanks for this - I think I'm going to do exactly the same with my 135w Kyocera. I'm getting tired of stowing it in the bunk and taking it out each trip. I've been trying to figure out a solution and have also looked at the GoWesty mounting setup. Too bad they don't sell it separate from their kit. Makes business sense, I guess.

Not sure if you wrote down all of the parts and sizes, but if you did, I'd really appreciate the specs. Thanks again.
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