| Author |
Message |
Terry Kay
Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003
Posts: 13331
|
 Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:06 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
I was at the Dupont/3-M dealer today and grabbed a guart of black Imron to paint a new lower section of an 06 Chevy 3500 bumper to finish a front end repair.
I have some dulling agent, flattener at work to dull it down a bit--satin finish.
The Imron will never come off.
The paint store knew nothing of-- you dropped the bomb on me urethane bumper refinishing material, and they've been around since 1947.
VHT is the "Zone" kinda stuff.
_________________
T.K.
Last edited by Terry Kay on Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:37 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
mariusstrom
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2010
Posts: 745
|
| Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| kamzcab86 wrote: |
I've found restoration products such as Meguiars, Mother's Back To Black, etc. work, but are temporary; they all require reapplication at some point. Since it was looking pretty bad, I sprayed my van's spoiler with VHT Epoxy Paint in Satin Black and will eventually be doing the same with the side vents and the front grilles. The store also had VHT Bumper & Trim Paint that I'm sure would work just as well, but I wanted a slight sheen so I went with the other stuff.
<snip snip>
Several months, a couple thousand miles and a few washings (including scrubbing) later, it still looks like I just sprayed it. |
This looks great. If I might ask, how many cans of the VHT Satin Black did you go through to do your spoilers?
I think I'd like to tackle my grill, spoilers, and bumpers all around.
_________________
Marius Strom Otto: 1988 Vanagon Syncro Westy Camper
[SOLD] Felix: 1967 Deluxe Beetle |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kamzcab86
Samba Moderator
Joined: July 26, 2008
Posts: 7917
Location: Arizona
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 12:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| mariusstrom wrote: |
This looks great. If I might ask, how many cans of the VHT Satin Black did you go through to do your spoilers?
I think I'd like to tackle my grill, spoilers, and bumpers all around. |
I used not quite 1 can to do all 5 spoiler pieces; of course, that doesn't include the back sides, which I didn't bother to paint. I applied more than one coat, as per the can's directions, and let the pieces dry (and bake) in the late-afternoon sun for a bit. I then let it "cure" for 24 hours before reinstalling. The label says: One can covers 12-14 square feet; dries to the touch in 20 minutes and can be handled after 3 hours.
Since VHT's web site shows the bumper paint as being satin, now that I think about it, it wasn't the sheen that made me go with the Epoxy Paint; the store didn't have the VHT Bumper & Trim paint in stock. Not wanting to wait for a new supply, I opted for the Epoxy Paint over another brand's bumper/trim paint (I've had great experiences with VHT products). The Epoxy Paint worked well on the textured spoiler, but I'd try it on a hidden area of the grilles/bumpers first to ensure it'll work on those too, or just use VHT's Bumper & Trim Paint. No matter the product you use, Krylon or VHT or SEM, prep is everything. 
| Terry Kay wrote: |
I was at the Dupont/3-M dealer today and grabbed a guart of black Imron to paint a new lower section of an 06 Chevy 3500 bumper to finish a front end repair...
The Imron will never come off.
...
VHT is the "Zone" kinda stuff. |
DuPont Imron = professional-grade
VHT = lay-person
I have no doubt that DuPont's Imron will never come off (it's widely used in marine, automotive and aircraft applications); for a professional-grade paint, I should hope not. However, many of us can't afford to sink a lot of cash and time into a professional-grade product for a job we're not getting paid to do (nor have the equipment to use), and prefer a quick, inexpensive fix to a very simple cosmetic issue. We're not repairing these parts, we're simply restoring their luster; in my case, the spoiler wasn't simply oxidized like the door trim is.
VHT paint, Krylon Fusion paint, Rustoleum Plastic Paint, DupliColor paint, Kiwi shoe dye, Back-To-Black, Forever Black, SEM paint, Bondo Restore Black, powder-coating, even peanut butter (creamy!) and heat guns have been used with success in restoring oxidized black plastic trim to its original black. Find what method works best for you and your car and go with it. If the professional-grade route is your choice, great; if not, the inexpensive DIY methods are just as effective, albeit possibly requiring reapplication in the future.
FWIW, VHT used to be a specialty product and was not available at any retail auto parts store near me; I had to order their products online. I was floored when I was at PepBoys (the only FLAPS around here with a wide variety of paints, cleaners, waxes) back in February and saw VHT sitting on their shelf (come to find out, VHT is now owned by DupliColor, which is owned by Sherwin-Williams).
_________________
~Kamz 
1986 Cabriolet: www.Cabby-Info.com
 1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
2016 Golf GTI S
"Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance." - 孔子 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Cold Steel
Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2010
Posts: 587
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:22 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks everyone for some really good posts, experiences, and product demos.
I decided to go with a temp look vs. the painting. Grills arent cheap and I wanted to see how much it would come back to life with some back to black.
Why question next would be should I use a laquir thinner to wipe it down first before apply the Back to Black?
_________________
91 Syncro
I am a samba thread just waiting to happen!
"Advanced Syncroist" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Terry Kay
Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003
Posts: 13331
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
NO!!
You can wipe the grill down with a fast wipe of the lacquer thinner, but it isn't a good idea.
If you hestitate for one millisecond in one area with that rag soaked in thinner--you'll melt it.
Hard plastic--grill's & stuff --wash it down with Krud Kutter or something--then lay the pig lard on it to shine it up.
Soft, plyable rubber or flexable parts the lacquer thinner will blow off all of the oxidation and make them as black as new---and you won't melt it.
Not hard plastic items.
You'll have the grill looking like it just came outa of a neuclear blast---
Be careful. 
_________________
T.K. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Volksaholic
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2005
Posts: 1771
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
| crystalcabot wrote: |
| Why question next would be should I use a laquir thinner to wipe it down first before apply the Back to Black? |
As Terry points out... lacquer thinner and acetone are pretty harsh solvents and will damage the finish on some plastics and flat out dissolve (melt) others. They're not healthy to work with either, but you should wear gloves when working with any solvent. I try to avoid them unless the specific job calls the them. For paint prep I make sure I get the bulk of the crud off with boiling TSP solution or a good soap and water, then wipe down with alcohol just before priming/painting. Alcohol will remove the grease but it's a pretty safe solvent for most surfaces and the person applying it... as long as you don't drink it!* I'm not familiar with Krud Kutter... I assume that's a brand name? I'll have to check it out...
As Kamzcab86 says.. prep is everything. If you're doing the grill make sure you get into all the corners with a tooth brush to get all the dust and oil out. I'd rather have oxidized than peeling in all the nooks and crannies. I've got what looks like a Maaco paint job on the front of the van... color match and easy to clean surfaces look good, but there are a couple runs and anywhere that the painter would have had to get into a tight space to prep is peeling.
Paul
*If you're prone to drinking your solvents, use Everclear or pure grain alcohol! Not that I drink the stuff, but I usually keep some for dissolving shellac flakes or making varnish if I want a really clear finish that gives off pleasant fumes while it dries.
_________________
1988 Wolfsburg Edition, 2001 Subaru EJ251 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
r39o
Samba Polizei
Joined: May 18, 2005
Posts: 9800
Location: San Diego
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:05 am Post subject: |
|
|
| stormforge wrote: |
I've had really good luck with "Forever Black". It's a dye-like product that comes in a shoe-polish style applicator. Excellent for black rubber and plastic parts such as mirrors, ground effects, etc... Made my dry, faded, light-grey colored mirror housings like new again and it's looked good for over a year now. Not sure how well it would do on painted parts. I think for bumpers and grills I would stick with a good cleaning and lots of coats of high-quality spray paint.
Cheers,
-Bill
'89 Syncro |
X2!
I have used the stuff for years. It works fantastic and LASTS. Unlike paints it does not chip or peel off. It is a plastic DYE. *IF* it fades, you just apply the process again. BUT, I have NEVER had to do that. I did it to some fender flares on my A1 VW Caddy pickup which lived outside 24/7. Various parts on my Vanagons have it too. Only after about a decade did I notice it was getting a bit gray, but not near as bad as the original untreated parts. Repainting stuff is a major pita later. Paint is not what should be applied to the original plastic moldings. I LOVE Forever Black....
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!
1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....
Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
r39o
Samba Polizei
Joined: May 18, 2005
Posts: 9800
Location: San Diego
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Terry Kay wrote: |
| The forever black stuff is a Wally World available product, and really doesn't refinish anything- |
It is a DYE.
I can not find it in our Wally World's sadly.......
In Illinois it seems only to be available from http://www.jcwhitney.com
See http://www.foreverblack.com
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!
1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....
Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
randywebb
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posts: 3815
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
also check out the product made by Meguiars for this stuff
and the dye that Surflex has
both have web sites
_________________
1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Alaric.H
Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2009
Posts: 2529
Location: Sandy Springs GA
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
I had too shine my van up real quick at bugout but I did not have any of those fancy products available so I looked around the van and all I could find was this.
It worked OK it went from this to this.
Now how do I get this stuff off. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
McVanagon
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1684
Location: Northern part of the Virginia
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Volksaholic
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2005
Posts: 1771
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 7:31 am Post subject: |
|
|
I tried acetone on one side of my air dam and soap & water on the other side (it was off the van so it was an easy experiment). They both look clean and oxidized... no appreciable difference in the results.
Paul
_________________
1988 Wolfsburg Edition, 2001 Subaru EJ251 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DWC
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2007
Posts: 223
Location: San Jose CA
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Kiwi Leather Shoe Dye?
I've used Forever Black with great results, but I've always suspected it was just repackaged shoe dye or polish and sold at a premium price.
DC
_________________
83.5 Westy Waterboxer
71 Squareback
81 Westy
59 Panel van |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
RCB
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2005
Posts: 4143
Location: San Francisco-Bay Area
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Has anyone else used baby-oil |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PaulGinAZ
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2005
Posts: 87
Location: Chandler, Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have used the VHT products with decent success but would also suggest that a quick trip to your local automotive paint supply store will find a slightly better (albeit slightly more expensive) product from SEM that Kam mentioned above.
The product that you want to use is SEM color coat and the color shade you want is Landau Black for most of the matte black colors of VW plastics.
http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=190
I have used this for a variety of oem exterior parts on various watercooled VW's over the years and it holds up well and seems to be relatively flexible for a spray coat.
_________________
-1989 Syncro Tristar TDi on Air Ride
-1980 Scirocco "S" with 16v Oettenger
-1996 VW Cabrio VR6 turbo
-2014 Silverado 1500 High Country
-2010 BMW X5 3.0 Sport (wifes) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
randywebb
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2005
Posts: 3815
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Orygun
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
you need a can of the SEM prep spray also
_________________
1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Orbitald
Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2004
Posts: 320
Location: Oakland, CA
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I like Aerospace Protectant 303. Not a paint or dye but it helps restore and protect plastic parts.
http://www.amazon.com/Aerospace-Protectant-303-Spray-Bottle/dp/B00063JM5K
_________________
'87 Syncro Westfakia, 1.9TD ADE (AAZish), 068 Injection Pump, K03 turbo, 2.5" exhaust, Mercedes nozzles, SAAB Blackstone charge-cooler w/ 800cfm fan, Micro-1000 EGT sensor pre-turbo, boost at about 13psi, 235/70/16 with stock gearing |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
msinabottle
Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005
Posts: 3492
Location: Denver Area, Colorado
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| RCB wrote: |
| Has anyone else used baby-oil |
Yes! It's very gentle, darkens the plastic, and seems to preserve it. Vinyl starts looking newer and becomes more flexible. I just finished wiping down nearly all Winston's exterior and interior vinyl and plastic with it. Good results. I used Krylon Fusion first on Winston's grills, but the baby oil does seem to refresh things quite a bit.
My product of cheap choice, its use was advised by some very knowledgeable old car restorers.
Best!
_________________
'Winston,' '84 1.9 WBX Westy
Vanagon Poet Laureate: "I have suffered in
many ways, but never, never, never in silence." |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
GMByers
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 642
Location: Retired in NW PA
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:12 am Post subject: |
|
|
| DWC wrote: |
| Kiwi Leather Shoe Dye? |
That is what I used on the dash vinyl of my 91. Over five years later and it still looks great!
_________________
And then there were two...downsized to 83 Doka &
74 Thing. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dredward
Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2007
Posts: 1081
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:37 am Post subject: Re: Best Product for restoring the plastic parts on the exte |
|
|
| crystalcabot wrote: |
Hey guys. I wanted to remove the faded looking plastic on exterior of the van. What would be the best product?
Thanks |
Blk shoe polish!!!! I've done it for yrs on every vw i've owned..... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
