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attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
SGKent wrote:
silver solder new posts on.

Is it really possable to silver solder aluminum? Got a video of that so us solderally inept people can try that?


mine was made of chrome plated steel not aluminum.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
solderally inept

LOL, nice!
Most of mine are aluminum too, I did replace a stud on one by drilling it and installing a long countersunk 3/32" aircraft rivet (glued in with end sticking out the back), after some sanding and polishing you really had to look hard for the rivet head on the outer face. You better be confident with your countersink for this job, I used a microstop and a rivet shaver after (aircraft tools).
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
quartermilecamel wrote:
solderally inept

LOL, nice!
Most of mine are aluminum too, I did replace a stud on one by drilling it and installing a long countersunk 3/32" aircraft rivet (glued in with end sticking out the back), after some sanding and polishing you really had to look hard for the rivet head on the outer face. You better be confident with your countersink for this job, I used a microstop and a rivet shaver after (aircraft tools).

Well, yeah it is quite funny Laughing I only say that because Im dam good at soldering......regular wires, copper. Tried soldering some broken fins back on my heads because someone suggested to go get the mig aluminum wire lowes sells and just run that through your mig welder. Worked about as well as duct taping them back on. Soldering aluminum is a whole different ball game. even tried to use the mapp torch while practicing on some lowes aluminum. Ended up just making a mess out of it. Just might try the alumalloy stuff harbor freight sells but not sure if a regular mapp gass plumbing torch would work, as I dont have the oxy/ acetalyne setup.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
quartermilecamel wrote:
solderally inept

LOL, nice!
Most of mine are aluminum too, I did replace a stud on one by drilling it and installing a long countersunk 3/32" aircraft rivet (glued in with end sticking out the back), after some sanding and polishing you really had to look hard for the rivet head on the outer face. You better be confident with your countersink for this job, I used a microstop and a rivet shaver after (aircraft tools).

Well, yeah it is quite funny Laughing I only say that because Im dam good at soldering......regular wires, copper. Tried soldering some broken fins back on my heads because someone suggested to go get the mig aluminum wire lowes sells and just run that through your mig welder. Worked about as well as duct taping them back on. Soldering aluminum is a whole different ball game. even tried to use the mapp torch while practicing on some lowes aluminum. Ended up just making a mess out of it. Just might try the alumalloy stuff harbor freight sells but not sure if a regular mapp gass plumbing torch would work, as I dont have the oxy/ acetalyne setup.


As I indicated, my 1971 deluxe sunroof had a steel and chrome emblem. I am sure I could have found a way to put pins onto it if need be and I could not find one with pins - probably drill them on a drill press with an end mill and then fit new pins. I had a good friend who was a machinist who did that small stuff for me all the time, however here is a solder that indicates it will do what you are asking about.

Aluminum
TO
Aluminum or Copper Al 802 Flux Cored Aluminum High strength,low temperature solder for joining aluminum to aluminum and aluminum to copper. Easy to use, contains a non-corrosive flux.

http://www.silfos.com/htmdocs/product_support/alloy_selection_guide.html
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* VW Buses and VW cars share many of the same systems but if you haven't owned a bus and maintained it for awhile, you really don't know how different it is.
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SBL74
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 6:21 am    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

Sorry to ask y'all to be my search engine, but I have a 73 Bay Window Bus where the PO/restorer covered over the holes for the emblems both front and back.

I would prefer not to re-drill them at this point. I recall that some vendor or person offers SS or aluminum scripts for the back that do not have the studs and already have the emblem tape on them. I cannot find this entity now.

Does anyone know?

steve
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

Just attach the emblems with clear RTV. It holds on forever, does not require holes, and is hardly noticeable.
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alman72
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 3:03 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

I am on year 5 of clear silicone.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 7:46 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

I would use RTV or silicone but I cannot find a script that does NOT have the studs. I hate buy one and have to grind them off.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

SBL74 wrote:
I would use RTV or silicone but I cannot find a script that does NOT have the studs. I hate buy one and have to grind them off.


If the door still has the stud holes and the script still has the studs itís perfect. Use clear rtv on the script, slide the studs into the holes, and then use tape to hold the script in place for several hours. Perfectly aligned and will stay in place a very long time.
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:32 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

FWIW... this is how the 'automatic' emblem is attached to my 1973 bus. The emblem pins are held captive by rubber lugs:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:55 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

Emblems with missing studs are easy to find, https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ton=Search
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ton=Search
Some emblem attachment tape and an Xacto knife seems like the simple solution.
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SBL74
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:23 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

No, when repainting the bus, the PO filled the holes for the emblems both in the front and the back.

I will look around for the script without the studs. I still remember a site that sold SS or aluminum ones with the tape already installed, and no studs. Should have bookmarked that!

steve
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ChipWrecked
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 9:19 pm    Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch Reply with quote

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7871774&highlight=#7871774
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