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What to improve while cabinets are out
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vintagemotion
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 7:10 pm    Post subject: What to improve while cabinets are out Reply with quote

Mice resided in my 83 Westy camper cabinets for some years and left a pretty good mess. Even though nothings was chewed I took the sink cabinets out to clean the mess left in places that I could not reach for cleaning. While I have it out I want to take care of some improvements / maintenance :

1.replace insulation behind cabinets – what kind could be used ? Would the house R13 stuff with paper backing work?

2.tread body panel seams from inside to prevent corrosion – I found some good reviews about “fuild-film for rust prevention!

3.replace contact paper in shelfs and wall paneling – has anyone a suggestions where to get the right color/ quality contact paper?

4.The wood under the main area carpet is rotten at the door entrance. I was thinking to use the foam panels from a later model passenger Vanagon instead of the wood- does this work?

Any other suggestions recommendations for what to improve while cabinets are out?
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msinabottle
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the insulation, a lot of folk have suggested block Styrofoam as better than the fiberglass, and not water retaining.

After you've done your seam-fix, I'd use something like Mercury Corrosion Preventative or WaxOyl to forbid oxygen from future rust activity. It's similar to what VW used originally.

I wouldn't replace the contact paper. I'd remove it with a heat gun, every last bit, then paint over the adhesive with something like the Krylon Fusion plastic paint, which will retain the textured look, but won't ever peel again and will laugh at stains and spills.

People have had good results in the compartment removing the wood and carpet and putting in Pergo.

Hope that's helpful!

Best!
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Last edited by msinabottle on Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely lay up some sound deadening material. You could run some wiring for future accessories like power inverters etc.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lovedavdubs wrote:
Definitely lay up some sound deadening material. You could run some wiring for future accessories like power inverters etc.


agree on both, sound deadening and wiring (solar controller up front to solar panel in the back, 12v sockets in back, extra battery in rear bench, Propex, etc..)
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm dubious on the added effectiveness of sound deadening, given that any noise has to penetrate thru the cabinets.

the only costs are money & wt. tho
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
I'm dubious on the added effectiveness of sound deadening, given that any noise has to penetrate thru the cabinets.

the only costs are money & wt. tho


two sources of noise, exterior noise that will have to penetrate like you say, and the sound made by the body metal panel "vibrating" like the skin of a drum. Cabinets won't do much deadening.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re; insulation. I ripped out the stock insulation from behind the fridge a few years back. Replaced it with layers of bubble wrap and final layer of HardiBacker board. (type of cement board)

Had my Dometic fridge running over the last few days. Temps were high 80's. With van in carport, shaded until afternoon sun, each day I noticed a consistent rise in fridge temps as sun hit the kitchen side of van. I think the insulation is not good enough.

If you camp much in really hot weather, or generally use fridge in hot weather, do your best to properly insulate behind the fridge.

Neil.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

madspaniard wrote:
...

two sources of noise, exterior noise that will have to penetrate like you say, and the sound made by the body metal panel "vibrating" like the skin of a drum. Cabinets won't do much deadening.


it isn't the source, it is the frequency -- the cabinets will attenuate the panel resonance somewhat even if it is a fairly low freq.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
madspaniard wrote:
...

two sources of noise, exterior noise that will have to penetrate like you say, and the sound made by the body metal panel "vibrating" like the skin of a drum. Cabinets won't do much deadening.


it isn't the source, it is the frequency -- the cabinets will attenuate the panel resonance somewhat even if it is a fairly low freq.


true.

all I can say is I did notice huge improvement when I did sound deadening, tested the cabinet side first and was noticeable.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

- that is worthwhile info

- when you say test, did you use measuring equipment, or just "ear-ball" it (subjective)

and, also, had you already done the F doors & slider when you did the cabinet side of the Van?


like I said, the downside is very low
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DLJ
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:09 pm    Post subject: insulate Reply with quote

I agree with ranywebb. I used bubble with a foil backing and have achieved good inulation and soud deadining results.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
- that is worthwhile info

- when you say test, did you use measuring equipment, or just "ear-ball" it (subjective)

and, also, had you already done the F doors & slider when you did the cabinet side of the Van?


like I said, the downside is very low


ear-ball, subjective but very clear, another Samba member also noticed the improvement riding in my van (it was his first comment as we rolled away). I have not done the whole front cabin yet including the front, doors and roof. Baby got here before I could get it done. Laughing I used RAAMmat and closed cell foam.
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Sheesh
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used ensolite/closed cell. I got it from an upholstery fella who also let me use his glue pot to glue it to the inside panels AND the entire rear floor.

I think it was 3/8", came 48" wide and as long as I wanted it, as it was on a roll.

Cost me less than $100.
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lovedavdubs
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
I'm dubious on the added effectiveness of sound deadening, given that any noise has to penetrate thru the cabinets.

the only costs are money & wt. tho


Proof is in the pudding

Before
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j04uppLduPE

After
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcw4O-F1KxE&feature=related
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Noganav T3
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even a small section of sound deadening material will go a long way. VW put small 1 ft sections of a tar paper like material in the front doors, slider and rear hatch on the most of the late model vans. Anything to not allow the panel to "ring" will help, you dont even have to cover the whole area or a large area a small area in the middle will do wonders. The car stereo stuff works and has a non moisture absorbing foil back.

The insulating bubble foil they sell at home d is fantastic stuff. the foil is a radiant barrier for heat and cold which is beyond normal insulation. it also absorbs no water. Getting away from the fiberglass insulation and and sealing up the boxes outside will probably extend the life of your van for decades. This, and not drilling drain holes for the water that gets into this area was a horrible design flaw for the westy.

Those three plastic boxes have rusted out more westys than you can shake a garden hose at.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randywebb is not questioning effectiveness of sound deadening in general, only in the area just behind cabinets
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup

I might do my F & sliding doors this winter. The problem with that side is the effort to pull out all the cabinets, not the cost of materials.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noganav T3 wrote:
...

Those three plastic boxes have rusted out more westys than you can shake a garden hose at.


that's a pretty scary comment, esp. since you're in Calif.
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Sheesh
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Takes a bit less than an hour to pull everything out of the back. I know - I've done it a couple of times.

I have an '82 cali rig that spent most of its life in LA area. I still had a little galley rust, mostly surface, that I repaired before it became a problem. I think it was those gaskets rather than the water system, myself.

Of course, it has all (boxes and water system) since been rehabbed.
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randywebb
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thx for the time est. - I'll bump that up my to do list a bit
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