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DIY or pay someone for a pro swap?
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

subaru 2.2, VW 1.8T, or the TDI's are what use Cali guys go with for a conversion due to smog laws.
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ianstone
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
subaru 2.2, 1.8T, or the TDI's are what use Cali guys go with for a conversion.


thanks.

so with my situation, do you think a conversion is in my future or would you stick with the stock based on the $ i've already dumped into it
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the engine shortblock is in decent condition I would assume that new heads would be the cheapest option.
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ianstone
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
If the engine shortblock is in decent condition I would assume that new heads would be the cheapest option.



and how can i tell if the shortblock is in decent condition?
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

> so then your .02 is to fix the gasket issue before it gets worse?

or, just swap in a used, but known good waterboxer..

Van Cafe will do it for $1000, the motors can be had for $500

Also check with Berkeley Bu$lab, they do $11,000 dollar $ubaru $wap$, probably have a few waterboxers being abandoned..

> who in santa barbara is doing the H6 3.0 conversions for $9k?

The contact is
http://burleysmotorsports.com/new/
Burl Beveridge
106 1/2 Santa Barbara Street,
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
805 966 1378

You cant smog an H6 in San Francisco, I was suggesting it to someone NOT in California, (or for someone who lives in a smog exempt county in California, such as Mendocino.)

> I contacted them to ask about the potential gasket issue, if it could have been caused from the trans replacement,.

Transmissions have nothing to do with Motor head gaskets. Call and ask for Peter if you need answers.

> and how can i tell if the shortblock is in decent condition?

You would need to hire a mechanic

fwiw, a GoWesty motor requres premium gasoline, not my first choice.. I use regular gas in my vans
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh well

Last edited by thummmper on Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:25 pm; edited 2 times in total
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ianstone
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider wrote:
> so then your .02 is to fix the gasket issue before it gets worse?

or, just swap in a used, but known good waterboxer..

Van Cafe will do it for $1000, the motors can be had for $500

Also check with Berkeley Bu$lab, they do $11,000 dollar $ubaru $wap$, probably have a few waterboxers being abandoned..

> who in santa barbara is doing the H6 3.0 conversions for $9k?

The contact is
http://burleysmotorsports.com/new/
Burl Beveridge
106 1/2 Santa Barbara Street,
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
805 966 1378

You cant smog an H6 in San Francisco, I was suggesting it to someone NOT in California, (or for someone who lives in a smog exempt county in California, such as Mendocino.)

> I contacted them to ask about the potential gasket issue, if it could have been caused from the trans replacement,.

Transmissions have nothing to do with Motor head gaskets. Call and ask for Peter if you need answers.

> and how can i tell if the shortblock is in decent condition?

You would need to hire a mechanic

fwiw, a GoWesty motor requres premium gasoline, not my first choice.. I use regular gas in my vans


good info, thanks much.

i had a feeling that the trans and motor issue would be separate. but figured i'd ask anyhow.

i actually live in berkeley now, so i'll talk to buslab and see what they have to say
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ianstone wrote:
ftp2leta wrote:
wrong state ianstone for having a conversion done... wrong state also to own a sick van engine wise.

Ben


so then your .02 is to fix the gasket issue before it gets worse?

(actually, i don't know that it can get worse)



Also, if you don't think a conversion is a good option since i am in california,
what would you suggest?

a gowesty wbx?


Sorry but it's your own state, search! 2.5L and Bostig are not legal in CA, just saying bro, sadly for you guys. So far and of what I know you can still do a 2.2L Subi and even a 3.3L SVX.

Very stupid law, very. Ask them to compare a good working stock 2.1L with a any 2.5L, emission is at least half! So go have a talk with them and ask them why????

I still don't get it.

Your story is a sad one, like many others.

If one days such law come up here, I'm dead and will close my shop.

Nothing can ever be done against the pencil pusher, nothing. very sad way to rule a country.

Ok, I,ll stop, sorry about that.

Ben
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funagon
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ianstone wrote:
Now, it seems that i may have some hydrocarbons in the coolant, which likely means an internal head gasket leak. . . . i have had some slow idling issues but always just figured the van needed to warm up more. (ie. stalling at a stop light). Now, it is clear that has been an issue related to the gasket.


That isn't clear to me. Low idle and stalling could be an electrical problem, Throttle position switch, OXS, or something else.
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:27 am    Post subject: subaru 2.5 beats Bostig, neither cali legal Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=428311
"he got 22.5 mpg at about 70 mph and I got like 14 at 55 mph. The zetec perfromed well but was completely gutless up passes. I had to shift down to 2nd at some were he rolled up at 70 in 3rd still accelarating. I think a 2.5 is in my future and the Zetec may be up for sale in the Seattle area in a few months"
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ianstone
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

funagon wrote:
ianstone wrote:
Now, it seems that i may have some hydrocarbons in the coolant, which likely means an internal head gasket leak. . . . i have had some slow idling issues but always just figured the van needed to warm up more. (ie. stalling at a stop light). Now, it is clear that has been an issue related to the gasket.


That isn't clear to me. Low idle and stalling could be an electrical problem, Throttle position switch, OXS, or something else.


Well, it seemed more like a compression issue which would explain the gasket/hydrocarbons issue...



It seemed like when it was starting to stall, I would need to give it a lot of gas and there would be a slight hesitation then it would sorta kick in and accelerate

Hope this description makes sense
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
he got 22.5 mpg at about 70 mph and I got like 14 at 55 mph.

You take a brick and stack all kinds of stuff on the roof to make it even less aerodynamic and you gotta expect a significant hit in MPG.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

My converted truck has a roof top tent on it that sits 18" high and I have plenty of power until I hit the freeway. With a strong headwind I have even been forced to drive in the slow lane once and the truck was going through the gas.
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you want to look into Zetec, these guys in Seattle are partnered with Bostig. they will do the install for about $8,000 including the kit and engine. actual price depends on cost of engine and what needs done to your van to make it ready.
http://www.vwtecshop.com/TEC_Shop/TEC_Shop.html
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GardenSurfer
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TEC shop install costs will likely be much more than $8K - http://www.vwtecshop.com/bostig_PRO_INSTALL.html
Their price sheets include new rate engines so I suppose you could lower costs with a used one, however it'll be extra for AC & cruise.

The value of the Bostig is DIY, otherwise you might as well go Subie.
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the equipment on the back actually helps aerodynamics. it reduces the vacuum ball you pull with you.
you could tub the belly as well, with doors for maintenance.

man, 8gs for a 4 cylinder!
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Volksaholic
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thummmper wrote:
the equipment on the back actually helps aerodynamics. it reduces the vacuum ball you pull with you.
you could tub the belly as well, with doors for maintenance.

man, 8gs for a 4 cylinder!

It would be interesting to see some wind tunnel & drag tests, but I'd bet you a couple pitchers you would have to extend the crap on the back out a hell of a long way out to make a noticeable difference at 70mph. I'm guessing we're talking 2x the length of the van or more, especially for a difference between 14mpg & 22mpg. Now stuff on the roof is another story... it doesn't take much to really increase the drag, even if it's something "slippery" like a canoe or kayak.

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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stuff off the back, itself, probably has little effect on aerodynmics.
Its not exaclty slippery shaped to aid in release, but will likley cause a bit more turbulance due to odds and ends stickin here and there...

A LOT of stuff in the rear will sag the rear end and effectively lifting the front end relative, and there you have changed and maybe increased windage. (Not to mention added weight and uneven distribution is bound to impact mpgs).


That said.. we recently did a trip with about 200lbs of bikes and rack of the rear end. Fully loaded for camping but no gear on top. Our mileage on the way out was awful. 16 or so.
Our mileage on the way back was 19 or so.. more typical. Same load.
Oddly enough, the usual (due to wind directions, grades, etc) is the exact opposite. Better mpgs out and than back in towards home.

I'd hazard a guess that the seasonal blends of gas, vehcil speed, wind directon/strength, grades and driving style impacts the van's mpgs the most.
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danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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levi
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Volksaholic wrote:
thummmper wrote:
the equipment on the back actually helps aerodynamics. it reduces the vacuum ball you pull with you.
you could tub the belly as well, with doors for maintenance.

man, 8gs for a 4 cylinder!

It would be interesting to see some wind tunnel & drag tests, but I'd bet you a couple pitchers you would have to extend the crap on the back out a hell of a long way out to make a noticeable difference at 70mph. I'm guessing we're talking 2x the length of the van or more, especially for a difference between 14mpg & 22mpg. Now stuff on the roof is another story... it doesn't take much to really increase the drag, even if it's something "slippery" like a canoe or kayak.

Paul


Someone built a buttress on the back of their vanagon, about a 1 or 1 1/2 ft extension, and netted about a 25% gain in mpg at hi-way speeds.
Butt ugly though, and not much of a benefit until you hit 40mph or so.
I've got a pic of it somewhere...
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one?
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levi
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the one.

Got it wrong on the length, looks like 2 foot.

But it's still butt ugly....
Smile
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