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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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 Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:39 pm Post subject: sealing rust inside doors |
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I have been working on my '77 VW Bus all summer. I'm working on the doors now. I have taken them off the bus. I am concerned with the inner part of the doors where I can see rust forming but I can't get to it very easily with an angle grinder and I can't afford to have the whole door dipped in an acid bath.
So anyway, I am thinking of using some sort of rust converter (Maseterseries, Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, Por-15, etc) for the inner part of the door frame. I am not too concerned with its look since it will not be seen behind the door panels, but I want to try to keep the rust away as long as I can. I might be able to just spread on the product with a foam brush, or I could use an aerosol spray can too. I think I can reach most of the inner part of the door using either method.
any suggestions for treating the inner part of a door?
Thanks!
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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anthracitedub
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Joined: June 20, 2007
Posts: 3241
Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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Id do the POR15, go to the web site and you'll see that they sell applicators for applying the product in hard to reach places. You can brush it in there to and if you go a little heavy it will run into the hard to reach places.
Id do two coats for good measure and make sure your drain holes are clear once everything is dry. It should last longer than you. |
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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| anthracitedub wrote: |
Id do the POR15, go to the web site and you'll see that they sell applicators for applying the product in hard to reach places. You can brush it in there to and if you go a little heavy it will run into the hard to reach places.
Id do two coats for good measure and make sure your drain holes are clear once everything is dry. It should last longer than you. |
I've heard that POR15 is more labor intensive than the others. are you able to just spread it on and be done with it? sanding would be difficult and awkward: not much space.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32625
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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SwitchThrottle
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Joined: July 15, 2010
Posts: 40
Location: Canton, CT
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:49 am Post subject: |
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When I gutted my bug I found shattered glass down in the door. After removing the glass it looked like the doors need attention down there (rusty). I was thinking of an acid wash (pour it in and scrub with a pipe cleaner brush). Rinse and seal with masterseries (since all the reviews indicate that it is a more forgiving application).
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BusBerd
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Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:08 am Post subject: |
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I tried the POR15. It was difficult to use because of the confined spaces that I was trying to reach. I first tried it with a disposable aerosol spray gun, but the paint just clogged it up. Then I tried brushing it on with a foam brush that came with the kit. The foam brush eventually deteriorated and I then used a 1" paint brush that I just threw away after I finished. This was all after the prep work with the marine clean and the metal ready, of course. I didn't do the best job with it, but now I know more of how it works and will do better next time. We'll see how long the doors last. I may use POR15 again on a few other spots on the bus.
I eventually want to undercoat the whole underside with once of these products. not sure which yet, but that is a project that is down the road a ways.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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BusBerd
Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Actually you may want to retitle this topic as NEUTRALIZING rust inside of doors. If you seal it in, it will continue to rust and work it's way through to the outside. You want to stop the rust action, not just seal it up.
Dave |
good point
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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anthracitedub
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Joined: June 20, 2007
Posts: 3241
Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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| How does rust keep going with out air or moisture? POR claims when properly applied it seals it and stops it…I've used it with good results. Maybe the rust will come back or maybe not…but I'll be so old to care by then. |
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BusBerd
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Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 834
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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POR15 then Reflectix on the inside of the doors.
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"The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
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anthracitedub
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Joined: June 20, 2007
Posts: 3241
Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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Doors look nice..I think they'll be suitable for NASA applications.
My Ghia that Im working on is completely POR'd underneath the body. I sand blasted it all clean and then put two coats and then undercoated it all with 3M product. I prefer all paint inside out and underneath, but I went ahead and did it this way…it still looks pretty cool. I need to put some snaps up. |
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