New exhaust loud exhaust

[binger59]

So I just replaced half the exhaust and it's much louder then it was before. The muffler had some holes at the flange for the tail pipe. The tail pipe had holes at the end as well, so I removed the pipe. I installed a new Elbow connection, connector pipe, CAT, muffler and tail pipe. I haven't found any leaks or have seen any soot build up any where. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem before or if some one has any suggestions. Could the muffler need to be rotated a little or is it just going to be loud from here on out. It just seems strange to me because it's all new. Thanks for any input. Oh it's the 86'
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Binger

1984 Westy
1986 7 Pass R.I.P. Donor van
2019 Jetta
2014 Passat
2019 Atlas
2006 Passat R.I.P.
1998 Jetta R.I.P.
1984 Vanagon R.I.P.

[GMByers]

Looking at your avatar, it might be loud because you have no doors, windows, or tires.....maybe the engine sitting so close to the ground might make it just seem louder.
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And then there were two...downsized to 83 Doka &
74 Thing.

[motelvw]

I put a complete new system on this spring after I rebuilt the motor. It seems louder than the old exhaust. I'm assuming the mufflers are just made different than before.

[Darren2dream]

Wondering if anyone else has thoughts on this issue..

My muffler & CARB approved Cat are 2.5 years old, two weeks ago my j-pipe cracked almost in half right at the O2 Sensor and the van got rather loud.. No surprise there..

Last weekend I installed a brand new j-pipe and a new O2 sensor, put it on without problems, but the van got LOUD. Like really embarrassingly loud..
Put put put put put put put put put... it idols cleanly at just under 1000 rpm & seems to drive just as fine as it did before (which has been solid) but, i feel like an a$$hole as it's freaking loud when you step on the gas (and even at idol).

I don't feel any leaks from the connections where I certainly could before where there were some pin holes.. and as I was able to replace one of the exhaust hangers attached to the j-pipe, the whole exhaust seems to rattle around less.. but this is the sound of an amplified engine noise, directly connected to the rpm.

What else would cause this change in the engine sound? I'm wondering if it's not exhaust related but triggered from the pressure change when the pipe cracked??? Put put put put put put put put put....

I've been around plenty of vans, mines now the loudest I've heard.. I'm honestly embarrassed at the sound. (guess, I'd make a lousy Harley guy)

Any ideas on what I should focus my attention on for a fix?

Thanks...
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[geo_tonz]

Mine got loud when RF header cracked right at the flange on the engine. Didn't look like anything until I got my wife to rev it up a bit while I crawled around it. Aside from that It must be the muffler. I replaced the whole system with a steel stuff from CIP and it's quite quiet.
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"Ron Burgundy": 1991 Vanagon Multivan (Weekender) 2.1L Auto - Driver/Camper

[insyncro]

What mufflers are you Guys finding loud?

Many will heat up and crap out internally, making a megaphone out of them.

Following the work of the custom exhaust builders, I have used universal and direct fit stainless 6" round mufflers from various companies with great success.

The Small Car & Go Westy mufflers have been good too.

I still have (2) Stebros going strong from 12 years ago...beautifully made and a great sound...but the mounting brackets sucked from day one.
Not a difficult fix.

[Darren2dream]

[insyncro]

I have been using Loctite Hi Temp Flange sealant for a few years now.
Not just red RTV, but flange sealant for steam fittings.
It comes in a chalk tube.
2400degree max temp and will not burn.
I have a few complete systems sealed with this stuff and it does not leak.

If the system sounds tinny.....the wall thickness of the pipes has a lot too do with that.

[geo_tonz]

It surprises me that your muffler and cat would need replacing and your headers would be fine after the shape mine was in...unless the headers were recently replaced as well. MAYBE you got a defective muffler but I'd bet that there's some rust holes or cracks on your headers to make the kind of noise you mean. That or maybe your joints aren't sealing? When I had to replace my entire exhaust I had to put it all together lose and wiggle it around to sit right, then slowly tighten everything up little-by-little at once. I would never have got it together if I started at one end and torqued as I went. Maybe your torquing of the new parts twisted and stressed a weak spot on a header and you have a new crack you didn't see before. Generally I'd say if it's a LOT louder from the driver's seat there's a break in the system somewhere ahead of the muffler to convey that noise forward. If the muffler and tailpipe is solid it directs a lot of sound away from the driver's ears even if it wasn't muffling it very well so I would be suspect of the rest of the system.
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"Ron Burgundy": 1991 Vanagon Multivan (Weekender) 2.1L Auto - Driver/Camper

[Darren2dream]

[Darren2dream]

Yep..... nothing to see here...

I placed my order for a new manifold and some cookies this evening...
So one side connects by bolts & the other nuts.. What's that all about?

Getting this sorted out should quiet down the van some. gesh!
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[geo_tonz]

That is exactly what mine looked like. Coming off a ferry at low tide the engine all of a sudden got VERY loud and that's what I found.

One side is a stud so you can hang it and then thread the nut and bolt. I'm guessing they're not both studs for clearance issues? Use the copper lock nuts. Your VW dealer probably has them for not much dough (mine did).

If I did it If I was to do it again (whole system) I would order the SS set from GW. Pretty much the same price as steel but was 't available when I was buying.

Glad you solved your "mystery"!
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"Ron Burgundy": 1991 Vanagon Multivan (Weekender) 2.1L Auto - Driver/Camper

[Darren2dream]

Well, the saga continues

I spent the last 2 hours trying to just get a solid grip on the head of the nut in the picture above. Finally called it quits & made an appointment at Freds Garage... (feeling pathetic)

The nuts seem to have rusted somewhere smaller than an 11 and yet not quite a 10 and I just cant get a hold on them with a rather wide assortment of pliers, vice grips, spanners, & you name it... Spent 3 days soaking in Liquid Wrench but, they still wont budge. The bolted side (passenger side) is in much better shape and the would come out but, that other side is just way past gone for my tools and ability. It kills me when I'm not the home grown mechanic I want to be.. This is a 4 bolt project and I can only get 50% done.
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84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[Silence262]

I, too, have suddenly been presented with the gift of loud. My RF pipe broke, and I am sure most of the rest of them are sure to follow if I disturb them. So, for me, a whole new system is in order.

I have been trying to decide between the GW stainless and the RMW system. GW's stainless appears to be a fine system, and cheaper, but RMW's WBXaustSS is just total exhaust porn. I am wrestling with the extra $700 or so that it will run me.

Maybe I can justify the added expense if I convince myself that it will give me $700 in performance boost...
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Silence
"Knowledge, sir, should be free to all." - Harry Mudd

1987 GL Automatic, 16" GoWesty wheels, Full stainless exhaust.

[insyncro]

A tuned exhaust system will only show a performance increase if it is paired with the ability of the intake to inhale at a rate different than the stock parameter.

That is true with whichever system you purchase and regaurdless of the price of the exhaust system.

[desertrefugee]

[Silence262]

Dylan, so, if I improved my intake, then I could (conceivably) see a performance improvement? Perhaps I should look into that, unless the costs are extreme.
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Silence
"Knowledge, sir, should be free to all." - Harry Mudd

1987 GL Automatic, 16" GoWesty wheels, Full stainless exhaust.

[joseph928]

LOOK the cost is not that much different . RMW tuned this is the key and with a SS cat. Add the price of a SS cat to the GW one and your not that far off in $ ! The GW does not come with a cat.
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1987 syncro westy tin top sun roof , GW2.3, rear locker, decoupler, Gary Lee tire rack & winch mount, lift, south african grill, big brakes , rhein alloy ,15 BFG AT, Fiamma 10 foot awning ,140 watt rear 85 watt front solar , mppt, truckfridge, automatic fire extinguishing system, tencent oil cooler, And a RMW SS exhaust! - 1971 bug convertible 1776 engine- 2010 Subaru turbo - 1993 Toyota 4x4 truck - 1999 Harley 95 CI, big bore, Andrews cams . Also 80-84- vans. Stock 65 sunroof bug.

[desertrefugee]

I was trying to make light of your question, but see it went over like the proverbial fart in church.

As an old drag racer and having restored more than a few British roadsters and, later, Chevy hot rods, my money needed to be justified. I think the same applies here.

As mentioned, your engine can be thought of as a pump. Make it more free-flowing (intake and/or exhaust), increase volumetric efficiency, boost the displacement, force the induction or bump your compression. Take your pick.

But research and anticipate the result based on dollars spent. Intake and exhaust will generally be the cheapest route. But assume you get a 10% increase (unlikely). What's that, maybe 10hp? Torque curve will probably be almost unchanged - and that's what would make the difference.

That same $700 would go a long way toward a conversion fund.

I'd do some pondering before splashing the cash. (Unless that part doesn't factor in).
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- 83.5 Westfalia - 2.2 GoWesty "power"
- a bunch of vintage motorcycles
- Numerous telescopes of various size and function

"For I have loved the stars too fondly to be fearful of the night." - Sarah Williams

[kirkvw72]