PS rack replacement tips?

[Californio]

Hey folks,

I've got a new PS rack sitting in the garage with the arms on it, but I'm a bit daunted by the installation of the thing.

How hard a job is this? I don't have a rack and will be working by myself in the street under the neighbors' smirking glances.

Since this is also my daily driver it has to be done within one day.

Any special tools? Tips on doing the replacement? Links to sites describing the operation? Yes, I did use the search but there isn't much describing the whole R&R...

BTW, the old one apparently has 327,900 miles on it--no records of a replacement since 1987. Not bad.

thanks--

[stevey88]

This is a " Reader's Digest " version to replace the power steering rack. Ask questions on particular steps.

Special tools needed - Ball joint separator.

1. Take out spare tire - This will give you more room to undo the hydraulic lines.
2. Put front end on jack stands and remove both front tires. If you do not have them, remove one front tire, separate the ball joint, them put the tire back. It help if you move the front of the tire out to clear the ball joints. Then do the other side. Since you have not done this before, it help to speed things up by removing the ball joints on both side as an exercise before the " big day " first. The cotter pins could be difficult to take out so it may take a long time.
3. Undo the nuts of the hydraulic lines ( two of them ). Again, try it first before the actual replacement so it will not get you stuck. Flare nut wrench is good but I undid mine using just the open end wrench. You have to remove the line closest to the spare tire first before you can undo the other.
4. Loosen the steering joints, Loosen both side so it will give you more slack when you take the rack out and putting it back in. Remove the bolt on the steering rack side.
5. Remove the four bolts and nuts that hold the rack to the chassis.
6. Remove the steering rack in a twisting motion so the steering joint will come off ( difficult to explain in words but you will know what I mean when you are under the van to remove it.
7. Measure the length of the old rack from end to end so you can get the new rack with the old ( or new ) rod ends more or less the same length. Keep in mind you will need an alignment afterwords.
8. Replace the power steering filter.

To put it back, put the steering joint on the rack first while pushing the rack into place. Put back the four bolts/nuts, tighten the steering joint, then put the ball joints back to the arms. There is no need to remove the wheels for this as there is enough room but you may have to move the wheels by hand so the ball joint can go back in. Reconnect the hydraulic lines and follow the Bentley for bleeding procedure. Note that you need to recenter the steering wheel after all this is done.

Hope this helps.
_________________
Steve

87 Westfalia full camper 4 speed

[Californio]

Sounds good--exactly the step-by-step I was looking for.

By PS filter you mean the one in the reservoir?

Also, I'm concerned about getting crap in there (new rack says to flush system before starting) any tips on this? I was thinking at a minimum spray the area where the hoses connect, then put plugs in them while putting the new rack on.

But better to flush the system first, or just flush and fill afterwards?

By ball joint separator, you mean one of those fork things you can get at the FLAPS?

Not sure how to recenter the steering wheel but I guess I ca deal with that after the fact.

Thanks, good advice so far.

[stevey88]

I don't like the fork type separator as they will damage the rubber boot. I use something like this;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Super-Duty-Ball-Joi...3f0272f340
There are cheaper one than this one.
Power steering filter:
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_323_760/power_steering_filter.html
Try to open the lid of the reservoir before hand. It is quite tight. I use the rubber thing for opening glass jar tops.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-strap-wrench-set-94119.html
I flushed after I install the rack. Make sure you can remove the return line from the reservoir before you start. I have to replace that line as it has harden too much for save removal without damaging the reservoir.
To center the steering wheel - after the wheel alignment, Note the position of the wheel when going straight. Stop the van, turn steering wheel to same position. remove the horn pad by pulling hard on it. Undo the nut that holds the wheel to the shaft, pull out the wheel and re-install with the steering wheel at the right position. Put nut back in and tighten. Reinstall horn pad.
_________________
Steve

87 Westfalia full camper 4 speed

[Californio]

Sounds like not too hard of a job. But talk to me again end of tomorrow.

Last question, know of any good Syncro alignment shops in the East Bay? I'm in Oakland.

thanks for the how-to, and hopefully this will help others in the future.

[stevey88]

[crazyvwvanman]

If you are not installing new tie rod ends you don't need a ball joint separator. You can just unscrew the tie rods out of the tie rod ends, leaving the old ends on the steering knuckles. Watch the accordion boots to make sure they don't get too twisted while unscrewing the rods and screwing in the ones with the the new rack.

Mark

[stevey88]

[crazyvwvanman]

No need to mess with the rack boots either. The rods stay in the rack and turn freely. The boots will try to twist with the rods but you can hold them still while you turn the rod. This is exactly what happens during an alignment anyway, this is just more of it.

Mark

[Californio]

That was my question--do the rods turn freely in the rack. OK.

What if you were to put a small radiator hose clamp on the tie rod threads where the existing (presumably aligned) ball joints are, then remove the entire rack and use the hose clamps to get an exact measurement for the new tie rod installation? Seems like that would be a precise way to measure and get it back to where it was. Or am I missing something? Make sure to clamp them down hard so they don't twist on the threads, etc.

[crazyvwvanman]

That sound like a clever way to do it! Give it a shot. I usually just carefully count the number of threads showing and match up the new rack to that. I suggest counting first just in case your hose clamps move on you.

Mark

[Captain Pike]

[davideric9]

I've have the benefit of removing the rack at the junk yard to learn how it works. I have always used a hammer to get the tie rod end out of the steering knuckle. I keep the nut on to save the threads, but I have damaged the nuts, easy to replace. This has worked for me every time, like maybe 4 times, both sides. Am I missing something by using a hammer?

Not sure if he is the best but he is the cheapest, $60 for four wheel alignment in Berkeley, San Pablo near Addison.
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012)

[stevey88]

[Cygnus]

I am in the process of pulling the steering rack and so far I have everything off without trouble - I am hesitant to pull it off the spline where the universal joint is at the rack since I am not sure how I would get the new one back in the same position on the spline - is this just a guestimate and then adjust the tie rods thing? Or is there a way to get it on at the same position?

Thanks for any advice!

-Brian

[RicoS]

[Cygnus]

Thanks I'll give it a try. I actually didn't much trouble with the tie rod ends - just a pickle fork and a couple of whacks..

Thanks again!

-B

[Cygnus]

Well. I'm an idiot - got the steering rack all up and "fairly" lined up - it had the tie rod ends on it already. So I lowered the sway bar while I was taking it off (pretty much required) but didn't raise it back up before putting on the steering rack... Much easier just to pull off the sway bar and then pop the tie rods and switch them around but I am not so sure about the spline line up now. Guess I'll see once I get it tied up - starting to rain so had to stop for the time being.

Thanks for the advice!

-Brian

[jefhaz]

I was able to remove my leaky ps unit using the tips from this thread. Since my tie rod ends were good, it was easy to just unscrew the rods and leave the ends in place. My only issue was separating the u-joint from the unit. I had to pull the u-joint from the steering wheel side and then remove from the unit on the garage floor. Now to get some parts...

Thanks to all the posters for the great advice.