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rastomas
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007
Posts: 258
Location: rosendale, ny
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 Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:54 pm Post subject: MUST my engine be removed for a new fuel pump? |
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For my 74 Westy. All I've read is "unfortunately...yes". I will be replacing it, but have yet to decide on a new mech, or new elect.
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"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.
'74 Westy |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 4:03 pm Post subject: |
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You've been reading in the wrong places, the engine does not have to come out, your Bentley manual has a full description of the job, not difficult at all but you may need a triple square bit for the socket head screws.
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dubluvv
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2007
Posts: 808
Location: Old Town, Maine
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| Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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Under no circumstances does the engine need to be removed to change a fuel pump. Mechanical, or electric.
Are you thinking of the fuel sender? Because, in that case, it CAN be done with the engine in, but is certainly easier with it out.
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-Mitch
'76 Westy 2.0L FI "Lucy" Project Thread
'84 Rabbit L Diesel - Potential Greasecar Project
[quote="chazz79"]"Aw honey, I got another one of those bay-bus things on my shoe again...dammit"[/quote] |
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VDubTech
Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2002
Posts: 9142
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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| dubluvv wrote: |
Under no circumstances does the engine need to be removed to change a fuel pump. Mechanical, or electric.
Are you thinking of the fuel sender? Because, in that case, it CAN be done with the engine in, but is certainly easier with it out. |
Ever seen where a mechanical fuel pump is on a T4 engine? If you had, you wouldn't ask that question.
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First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: |
| a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: |
| my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: |
One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
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rastomas
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007
Posts: 258
Location: rosendale, ny
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| Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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I love this site, but sometimes some of you guys can be real bitches.
MY bible, by Muir, says no. Page 261, right at the top.
YOUR bible, by Bentley, it seems, has a better way.
I got under and took a look. Doesn't look too hard.
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"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.
'74 Westy
Last edited by rastomas on Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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All the more reason to leave the idiots guide in the bathroom 
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rastomas
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007
Posts: 258
Location: rosendale, ny
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| Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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So, go electric,or stick with the mechanical? Any advantage of one over the other? At least I can relocate it to a more convenient spot (maintenance, check for leaks, etc.)
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"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.
'74 Westy |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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The mechanical pump is the best option as it shuts off the fuel flow when stopped, no leaky needle and seats filling your crank case with oil, but they are getting hard to find and expensive.
If you decide to go electric make sure you get a gerotor rotary pump that puts out no more than 2.5-3 PSI, lots of different brands sell them, they all look like this:
Other pumps are noisy and have excess pressure issues, you'll save the minor extra cost in fuel economy.
You'll also want to install a fuel pump relay to control it, Germansupply sells a nice kit.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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VDubTech
Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2002
Posts: 9142
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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| rastomas wrote: |
| MY bible, by Muir, |
And therein lies your problem. It's a fun little book, but it's not a repair manual. Get a real manual.
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First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: |
| a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: |
| my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: |
One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
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rastomas
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007
Posts: 258
Location: rosendale, ny
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:28 am Post subject: |
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I have all the books, and I'm sticking with the mech. Thanks, folks!
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"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.
'74 Westy |
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Klaussinator
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Joined: June 17, 2008
Posts: 1111
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:11 am Post subject: |
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In dealing with a leak around my pump, I asked in an earlier post about how to change out the pump with the engine intact. I never got a clear answer. Maybe I'm a dolt, but how do you work around the heat riser that's in the way of the upper mount screw for the pump? Or how do you remove the riser?
Still trying to figure this one out . . .
Thanks,
-Klauss
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Remove the duct, there's 2 screws on the bottom and 2 at the top accessed from the starter side.
The top screws also secure the bowl the airfilter heat pickup sits on, you'll need a pal to hold it in place when it's time to reassemble.
(round thing in bottom of pic):
Once the duct is of wallaa, easy fuel pump fondling, notice the triple square bolts.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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chazz79
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Joined: August 15, 2008
Posts: 2268
Location: ohio
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Good luck finding any of those bolts in that kind of shape! Count on breaking the screws out of the rusty tins death hold, toss in a good sprinkling of curse words and viola....you're done. Now you just have 4-5 hours of sheet metal repair to do before it resembles something like the factory put in there.
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jmstu76
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 1227
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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what does the duct in the top picture above do and what is it exactly called. My friend with a '73 needs to find one.
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James
'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020 |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| jmstu76 wrote: |
| what does the duct in the top picture above do and what is it exactly called. My friend with a '73 needs to find one. |
It supplies warm air to the aircleaner preheat valve on a stock dual Solex setup. It goes by many names, preheat duct, heat riser, preheater or any other you can come up with.
As for it being hard to remove Chazz? depends on the environment the bus lives in, some may be rusty but many are so greasy you can't even find the screws.
If anyone's running a carb setup that doesn't use the stock aircleaner remove the duct and block off both holes, no need for bonus heat in the engine compartment.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Also...a quick dab of antiseize on sheet metal screws will prevent this issue from happening. Ray |
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rastomas
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007
Posts: 258
Location: rosendale, ny
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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And what's the dillio with those tri-sq bolts? VW trying to sell tools now? I'm guessing I can switch those out for a more conventional head. Yes, with the same thread.
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"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.
'74 Westy |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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Whatever floats your boat, they're awesome fasteners. You'll also find them on the CV joints, early fans, and the flywheel, most FLAPS sell a set of bits for around $10.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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ccpalmer
Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006
Posts: 3850
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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| VDubTech wrote: |
| dubluvv wrote: |
Under no circumstances does the engine need to be removed to change a fuel pump. Mechanical, or electric.
Are you thinking of the fuel sender? Because, in that case, it CAN be done with the engine in, but is certainly easier with it out. |
Ever seen where a mechanical fuel pump is on a T4 engine? If you had, you wouldn't ask that question. |
X2
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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| rastomas wrote: |
| And what's the dillio with those tri-sq bolts? VW trying to sell tools now? I'm guessing I can switch those out for a more conventional head. Yes, with the same thread. |
They have been a common head style on German cars for 40 years now, what's unconventional about them. If you are going to own an ACVW you pretty much need that tool. |
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