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Coolant pipe ends...salvageable or junk...?
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SirIvor70
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:32 am    Post subject: Coolant pipe ends...salvageable or junk...? Reply with quote

Hi there.

Searching for a steer here. Am in the middle of a AAZ diesel transplant to my 2.1 87 Westy. One job I have to do is take care of the coolant pipes. The pic below shows the state of the engine bay ends.....so my question is are they shot or a candidate for the GoWesty repair kit?

Appreciate your thoughts. Many thanks

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GrindGarage
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used them and my pipes looked kinda the same. is the top one missing the metal peice? one of my pipes had the metal peiece mia and installed repair kit and has been going good for 2 yrs 20k + miles
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campism
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"...in the middle of a AAZ diesel transplant to my 2.1 87 Westy. "

No words of wisdom but a request; a thread on the conversion when finished would be informative and inspirational. Thanks!
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tclark
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

campism wrote:
"...in the middle of a AAZ diesel transplant to my 2.1 87 Westy. "
No words of wisdom but a request; a thread on the conversion when finished would be informative and inspirational. Thanks!

And a line item by line build list, there is good start for tdi here
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=402326
but it just covers the big items not all the mounting brackets, gauges
etc sort like a zetec build call sheet would be perfect assuming yoiu made those kinda detailed notes

Also did you keep the aaz under the lid if so what did you do with the throttle body(brickwerks adpater)

And what turbo did you use Triple K (K3) turbo or Garrett t2

And the intercooler ?
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Last edited by tclark on Sun Oct 10, 2010 12:24 pm; edited 3 times in total
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cleaned mine up really good and JB welded it back...didn't know about the gowesty repair kit at the time.
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funagon
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the top pipe in your picture, the metal insert and end of the plastic pipe have both broken off. If you clamp a hose on there it is likely to come loose at a bad time because there's no ridge on the pipe to stop a clamp from sliding. This could ruin your new engine when all the hot coolant dumps out onto the highway.

In this case I'd say forget the gowesty fix and spend the coin on some new metal coolant pipes, available from all the usual vendors. Many people have devised various fixes: rivets, epoxy/jbweld etc, but all have the potential to come apart again. As long as you're putting the time and effort and money into a new engine, spend a little more on some metal coolant pipes and check that one off your list. Seems worthwhile to me.
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, One of my other vanagons the PO had replaced an entire section of pipe with marine exhaust pipe.

Not sure if thats cheaper though, worked fine for about 50k till I sold it.
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Rocky Mountain Westy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great to hear your doing a Diesel conversion. In many ways it is the perfect power plant.

So we manufacture Stainless coolant lines. Here is the link to the ones we make specially for TDI or inline VW conversions. It brings the coolant pipes into the engine bay. About 5 inches past the firewall in the location where the plastic coolant tower used to be. Can help eliminate rubber hoses and multiple connections.

Here is the link,

http://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Stainless_Steel_Coolant_Transfer_Tubes_TDI_p/rmw-ctttdi.htm
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The Splitzgauer build (when I have time to work on it and update the thread)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497133
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't bother with the GoWesty coolant pipe repair kit. It's a scam, albiet possibly unintentionally, and does absolutely nothing to keep your hose clamped onto the coolant pipe.
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connorsvw2
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had some experience here which might help.

I had to trim off the end of one of the plastic pipes during a modification to my Subaru transplant cooling system. Surprisingly, both engine bay ends were perfect, including the metal inserts-minimal corrosion. I cut out the metal insert and fitted it back into the remaining plastic pipe as far as it would go, which was not very far. Carefully, using aluminum sheet metal heat shielding (remember, you have fuel lines in this area!) to isolate the single pipe end, I heated up the plastic pipe end with my propane torch, moving around the end of the plastic pipe to partially melt/soften it. I was then able to hammer the insert into place, and with further heating was able to get the metal lip inside the plastic. Additional heat to melt the plastic and pull over the metal lip to anchor it inside plastic and create a small lip (use small flat blade screwdriver or Mechanix-gloved fingers to pull and form the plastic) and lock the metal lip in place with a ring of plastic, let cool off and install the hose.

I had to repeat the same procedure up front, where I found one of the hose ends had broken off. Worked just as well. Might be worth a shot.

YMMV.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While your monumetal creativity is quite an amazing undertaking, there comes a time where common sence would have to kick into overdrive, bite the monetary bullet, splerge, ad buy a new set of pipes.

If the coolant pipes were just a secondary afterthought--I'd do the hokey pokey too--

But seeing as they are an essentual required item, I'd forget about the detour to just making it work, and do this job right.

To answer the OP's question;
Get a new set of pipes--yours are all done.
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SirIvor70
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies folks. Guess a new set of steel pipes are in order.

Re the engine transfer, had not occurred to me to document the project but might not be a bad idea.

So, the story so far....when moving back to Ireland from the US four years ago, I brought back my 87 Westy 2.1. Have used it around the Irish coast, big trip to France last year and a shorter one to the UK this year.

All fine and dandy except the cost of gasoline over here is, well...mad. Therefore I had two options: install and LPG kit or go the diesel route. LPG is cheap and plentiful in the UK and mainland Europe but not so in Ireland, so that left me with the diesel.

I sourced a 95 VW Vento(Jetta) that had been t-boned in a wreck but the engine, a 1.9 AAZ with only 50k miles, was perfect. Bought the lot for 500 euros.

That was three years ago. In the interim I have been gathering the necessary parts to make the conversion a go. To that end I also sourced a pretty beat up 88 VW panel van, 1.6JX TD. The engine was toast, but its the bits around it I was looking for...namely
-Transmission bell-housing
-Diesel starter (which I got rebuilt)
-Inlet manifold (which I need to alum weld to get the ports to match on the AAZ)
-Exhaust manifold
-JX turbo KKK14 model...turned out to toast as well but that is another -story....
-Alternator
-Belt pulley: keeping the V belt setup of the JX rather than the serpentine setup of the AAZ
-Sump
-Engine mounts and bars
-Air box filter and mounts

I have sourced a few other bits directly from Brickwerks in the UK (the guru for all AAZ conversion related items):
-Throttle arm for the diesel pump (bespoke item they make)
-Engine cover patch: The AAZ pump does require a small hole cut in the engine lid, but it does not actually protrude into the cushion. Again a bespoke item that Simon in Brickwerks designed.

Only things left were to get a new turbo from Germany (which was lost on a DHL truck from Germany to Ireland when the whole truck went up in flames...awaiting a second one). And a diesel dash cluster from eBay in Germany.

So that is where I am at. Plan is to get the AAZ working and debugged in the 88 panel van before transplanting it into the Westy. Putting the engine together at the moment and it was a good time to replace the timing belt, water pump, oil pump etc...

When the engine goes in, I will take some pictures and post them.

The end result should be a van that is more fuel efficient, tad more reliable in the longer term, though the 2.1 has never let me down. I will have to insulate the vehicle a little bit better, particularly around the engine bay...the diesel will be that little bit louder. The battery will be repositioned from the passenger seat to the engine bay also. As for AC, well I think I will be loosing that functionality, though in truth, its never a big need in temperate Ireland. Oh yes and running a wire to the glow plugs from the dash....don't believe there is one in the loom.

Sorry for rambling on there, but that about sums it up.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crank nose/crank timing gear interface on the AAZ is notorious for failure. Although the same interface was used on the 1.6 engines without issue, the AAZ had the addition of the serpentine belt system and small pulley (high rpm and high inertia) alternator fitted. The result of the added stress on the crank nose most often results in timing failure and destruction of at least the valve train. If you are planning on using the AAZ serpentine belt setup then have the crank nose machined to accept the later TDI D-style crank sprocket and install the one-way ratcheting alternator pulley. The combo eliminates the crank sprocket failure. Lots of info on it at www.vwdiesel.com. If you are using the earlier 1.6 brackets and accessories, then it shouldn't really be an issue.
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BushChicken
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Don't bother with the GoWesty coolant pipe repair kit. It's a scam, albiet possibly unintentionally, and does absolutely nothing to keep your hose clamped onto the coolant pipe.


I have seen this posted before and it is NOT true.

The fix DOES work. I have had mine repaired in this manner for EIGHT years and it still looks good and is working fine.

Here is a drawing of how it works. Sorry for the crude drawing and bad penmanship.

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I have a feeling someone will claim that the hose can still slide off the end as the barb pushes out, but this is just not the case. That barb isn't pushing out with any real force, it just wiggled out over time when it failed the first time.

Like I said, this has been installed and working for eight years.
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simd0ggie
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't see how that is in any way different than just pounding the end back in and clamping the hose on. You can add all the pieces you want, it's not changing the fact that the lip is gone...

I say pound it back in and double-clamp it. That being said, I replaced the hose with a bit longer piece for a little more room for the clamps.

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BushChicken
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean the lip is gone? The whole point of pounding it back in is to preserve the lip.

If all you do is pound it back in and double clamp it, the barb will still work it's way out again. That is why the GW fix exists, to keep the barb from coming back out.
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16CVs Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: coolant tubes . Reply with quote

On my Syncro ,I replaced them with GW split tubes . No regrets for money spent and tine to install them .
On my Dad's 89 TD he used a GW repair kit and it works great . They are a work of genius and well crafted.
If I were to do it again ,I would probably put a set of pipes in my dad's truck ,but I have a feeling they will be functioning long after my Dad is gone.

Stacy
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sbclayton
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish I could remember who posted a neat fix - pound the metal back in, then drill through the plastic and metal and secure with stainless steel (?) pop rivets. The rivets keep the metal secure and give a nice raised area for the hose to clamp on to firmly.

Haven't done mine that way yet, but it is a genius idea!
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BushChicken wrote:
Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Don't bother with the GoWesty coolant pipe repair kit. It's a scam, albiet possibly unintentionally, and does absolutely nothing to keep your hose clamped onto the coolant pipe.


I have seen this posted before and it is NOT true.

The fix DOES work. I have had mine repaired in this manner for EIGHT years and it still looks good and is working fine.Like I said, this has been installed and working for eight years.


Glad to hear it's been working for eight years but will say unequivocally that it's *not* from the GoWesty brass pieces which do nothing productive except remove money from your wallet. The original insert worked for more than eight years and you pounded it back in for another eight and you think the brass insert is what has done the trick? The GoWesty kit is complete nonsense. It is coolant system pressure that is attempting to pull the hose off and the hose in turn is pulling on the barb. The GoWesty insert that is further into the hose is just along for the ride doing nothing to prevent the hose from pulling the lip and insert back out of the pipe. The inserts are pulled loose even in the ends that are stuck into the hose that necks down and bends and yet the insert cannot push its way any further into the hose. Please explain exactly how the GoWesty kit does anything more than the reduction in ID of the hose and the bend which already exist.

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BushChicken
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
BushChicken wrote:
Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Don't bother with the GoWesty coolant pipe repair kit. It's a scam, albiet possibly unintentionally, and does absolutely nothing to keep your hose clamped onto the coolant pipe.


I have seen this posted before and it is NOT true.

The fix DOES work. I have had mine repaired in this manner for EIGHT years and it still looks good and is working fine.Like I said, this has been installed and working for eight years.


The original insert worked for more than eight years and you pounded it back in for another eight and you think the brass insert is what has done the trick? The GoWesty kit is complete nonsense. It is coolant system pressure that is attempting to pull the hose off and the hose in turn is pulling on the barb.


I disagree with your premise.

First, I have no idea how long the pipe was in good condition before the ends cracked and allowed the barb to start to work it's way out. Now that the ends are cracked I doubt it would last for 8 years just pounded back in without the fix.

Second, I don't think it is the pressure causing the hose to pull the barb out. When I did my lines the hose was clamped right where it should be on the plastic pipe. The barbs had simply worked their way out without moving the hose.

So, in my experience, the GW fix would have (and does) keep the ends where they belong.
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