Replacing oil cooler

[ChrisFred]

Hey I am looking at a bus and it needs a new oil cooler. I've heard you can even do this without removing the engine. Is ther a tutorial page/video? The only info I find is on replacing the oil cooler seals...

[Wildthings]

You should verify that the oil cooler actually needs replacing, what is supposed to be wrong with it? If this is a Type 4 engine then a leak problem is more likely a leaky oil pressure switch than a problem with the cooler or cooler seals.

[aerosurfer]

Thats fine.. the oli cooler seals are between the oil cooler and engine (assuming a T4 motor) just use those directions to remove the cooler too
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77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)

[aeromech]

We need to know the year of your bus because there are a couple different kinds of engines.
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[Wasted youth]

If it's a late Bay Window bus with a Type 4 engine, you will need to remove these pieces:

So you can get to here:

The most difficult problems I had were 1) Dealing with the bottom sheetmetal screw of the tin that is in from the top of the fan. The muffler blocks access to this, and 2) Wrestling with one of the alternator bolts. But, yes, you can do this without removing the engine.

Then, you can test your cooler like I did to see where (or if!) the actual leak is on the cooler...or is it the seals that are leaking?

[jonneeb]

[tractoman]

Should really use a better quality filter than Fram.
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Mike
'75 Westy

[sun-bug74]

Hi Folks:

I am likely going to pull the parts shown above and have a look at the oil cooler. I have ruled out the oil pressure sensor and the oil filter connector as culprits. Can someone tell me a) what tool I need to pull the fan from the shaft, and b) what type of sealant is used when the two large fan housing pieces shown above are mated back to the engine case and to each other? It looks like there is purple residue on those two large pieces and I want to be prepared when it is time to reinstall.

Also, does anyone have an estimate on the time it will take to get everything off?

Thanks.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[timvw7476]

that fan is released via three 13mm hex bolts. So a socket & extension does it. The hub remains on the crank snout, has a locating dowel.
The fan shroud remains intact, no need to separate the front & back halves.
The oil fill tube. Helps to remove that to work the fan shroud off the studs, four of them, hidden behind the fan, Also 13mm. Nuts & washers.
Estimate: Four & 1/2 hours, beginning to end. There is no sealant or gasket between the blower shroud & crankcase studs. None between shroud halves either.
EDIT: there is one 13mm bolt in the hub center, you leave that one alone, it mounts the hub flange to the crank snout. Just loosen the three others that are not threaded directly into the crank snout.

[sun-bug74]

Thanks. Very helpful. 4.5 hours to get it open, replace the cooler and seals, and get it all back together or 4.5 hours one way?
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[timvw7476]

[wrxnofx]

[sun-bug74]

I also found that seal at Bus Depot and it is on the way. Thanks.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[sun-bug74]

I have the new cooler in place, with the three nuts finger tight. I have that the nuts only go to 5 ft lbs (60 in lbs). Is that correct? Also, is there a way to test the cooler for gross leaks before I put everything back. That would mean running the bus briefly without a fan and without an alternator.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[sun-bug74]

Or, how about just cranking the engine with the starter with no coil. Will that generate enough pressure to at least see that there are no gross leaks between the cooler and the block (verifying proper seal seating)?
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[airschooled]

Run it for a minute or two. No problem.

60 inch*pounds is correct.
Robbie
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[sun-bug74]

Thanks. Will it run without the alternator? I am assuming yes since the battery will provide power for that short of a time (I can then trickle charge later). My plan is to keep the back end of the engine wide open, with all of the stuff you see in the picture above in this thread still off. Just want to make sure that I understand it right and all of that stuff can stay off for the test without hurting anything else.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[sun-bug74]

* Edit, all of the stuff still off except for the wired coil, that is.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[timvw7476]

Buttoning it all up wondering if it will hold is always in the back of the mind as you do it. Forgot to mention, a little grease, think I used Bel Ray brand, on the seals-to-flange mount interface, just to try & secure the grommets as the cooler goes on. That & a little more torque than 5 ft/lbs. (think I went more like 7- ;
Yes, fire it up before you put all that back on. A few moments without the fan won't hurt a cold engine.