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Don't use Stainless Steel coolant pipes
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Terry Kay
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Joined: June 22, 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats on a direct contact bolt on trans.
That might cause problems.

Figure this;
The pipes are isolated from the engine with the hoses on each end--if in fact this cavitation fairy tale is a bonified problem.

BUT WAIT--There's more!!!!

RMW purveys satinless replacement coolant distribution blocks for 2wd's & Syncro's, Plus the water pipe on the left hand side of the engine!!

Better send them all back to Mike for an immediate refund for those of you that have them--these are surely going to melt your engines RIGHT NOW!!!

This pipe is a direct bolt onto the engine affair and will surely turn the interior of your engine to immediate white corroded aluminum!!!!

BUT WAIT--there's still more!!!

There is somebody out there distributing water pump to the thermostat by-pass stainless pipes & the stainless pipe that runs from the oil cooler to the water pump--

Better get them off prior to your engine turning to Jello & get a refund right away!!!!

So according the the Wizard of Oz, between the stainless coolant pipes, the replacement stainless distribution block, the L/H stainless water pump to the thermostat pipe, the stainless oil cooler to water pump pipe, & the stainless by- pass pipe to the thermostat--you all are melting the interior of your engines en-mass.

Folks have had these stainless replacement parts on their Vans for quite some time--with zero negative problems.

But yet--and the only thing mentioned here has been the coolant pipes.

Give me a break--

You guys are beyond comprehending common sense.

I think you've been spinning around in the Mad Hatter Tea Cups at Dizzeyland little too long--
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:11 am; edited 2 times in total
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SL12572
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Joined: April 13, 2011
Posts: 270
Location: Washington
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate to keep bringing this topic up, but I find it interesting that people want to discredit facts and use opinions.

Corrosion due to dissimilar metals is a problem. There is no arguing that. With aircraft, I have to inspect and deal with it all the time. They use dissimilar metals in aircraft due to weight and strength, but are usually protected with a barrier of various products, such as alodine, zinc chromate, mastinox, and many others.

Now back to the coolant pipes. I find it funny that someone would say "hey, I had plastic pipes and my heads are corroded, so the coolant pipes are not the problem". I never did say that the pipes were the "only" problem. I'm also going to say that you may not see a corrosion difference between plastic and stainless.

The point I'm trying to make is that we are aware of a head pitting/corrosion issue. People will slap on a set of heads without properly sealing them, then they will buy a nice and shiny set of stainless coolant pipes and years later, they will say the WBX is a bad engine due to seeping / pitted heads. BUT, if you actually take the time to do things right and understand corrosion, you may avoid the problem all together.

I'm sure TK and RMW puts out a top notch product, but I feel stainless is a wrong choice. I will be using aluminum pipes with my newly built WBX.


Scott
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AdrianC
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Joined: January 13, 2012
Posts: 526
Location: Wherever the road's gone
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 2:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SL12572 wrote:
I'm sure TK and RMW puts out a top notch product, but I feel stainless is a wrong choice. I will be using aluminum pipes with my newly built WBX.


At least with the front-rear pipes, there's a choice. As TK points out - they're not the only stainless coolant pipes available. I replaced the long, big 'stat-to-pump pipe with one of the last mild replacements - they're only stainless now. However, I did get the stainless pipes for the oil cooler hard lines and the stub for the RH head breather. Again - no non-stainless replacement. And, as TK also points out - they're physically bolted to the ally block.

And they have been for a year and a half, with no visible corrosion when I replaced the water pump (bearing collapse) a month or two ago.

I guess I'm on the "not worried" side when it comes to installing the stainless front-rear pipes which are currently blocking access to the fridge.

Did we ever figure out what causes the mild steel inserts into the plastic pipe to corrode? My original 'stat-to-pump pipe was perfect inside, but rotting through from the outside. But my inserts are fubar, with all four plastic ends AWOL. The cooling system appears to have always been well maintained - ~160k+ on the original engine, even with original rad.
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Zookeeper of a miscellany of motoring silliness, from 0.75bhp to 9ft tall.
Living life on the road in an '88 2.1DJ Westfalia Club Joker Hightop.
www.WhereverTheRoadGoes.com
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91syncro
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My plastic coolant lines catastrophically failed at 80k miles, fortunately it was less than a minute of arriving home at which point most of my coolant was gone. Replaced the factory plastic coolant lines with stainless at that point...150,000 miles later I still dont have engine or coolant issues...just sayin.
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