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Adjusting Holley Fuel pressure regulator
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twinfallsbass
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:30 pm    Post subject: Adjusting Holley Fuel pressure regulator Reply with quote

Hi. When do you adjust the pressure on the regulator, when it's idling or when it's at a higher rpm? I can't seem to get the pressure down to 3 psi while idling, it will go to 3 psi when the rpm's are higher. I have a 1915 DP with dual Kadrons. Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what model regulator is it? Holley makes several.

"12-804" should be pre set to 2.75 lbs and I have found them to be quite "on spot" on the ones I have installed. Simple adjustment if needed. If not in parameters you could have a rare defective unit of that style...
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vdubnut58
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you using a liquid filled gauge?
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, which Holley regulator you running, and also mechanical or electric pump (if so, which pump)?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want about 1.5 - 2 psi at idle with Kadrons.
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twinfallsbass
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, thanks for the replies and sorry for the delayed response. It's a non liquid filled gauge by Autometer Products. I bought it from a local auto performance supplier ( Loopers ) here in Phoenix. The regulator is a Holley 12-804, I was told it went down to 1 psi and I have a stock mechanical fuel pump. It seemed to work fine for a while after I dialed it into 2psi at idle, but now it reads 6psi and it won't adjust down to 3psi. In fact I can completely remove the adjusting screw and it still does not go down to 3psi. Could the gauge I bought crapped out? If so, what's the best brand to buy and should it be liquid or non-liquid filled?

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Taxman20
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, that guage is a 1-4 psi regulator. So if it adjust down it is bad. I've had a lot of regulators go bad. Holley's and others. I would take it back for another regulator. As for the guage. Get a good quality liquid filled. More accurate and a good guage will not bounce.
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vdubnut58
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a good gauge. Do not replace it with a liquid filled. The readings on liquid filled gauges tend to go up as the liquid gets hot. The Holley regulator is made in Korea. Not the greatest. I would start by swapping the regulator. I had similar issues with my car this summer. It turned out to be the liquid filled gauge and a bad holley regulator. You can also try shimmin your stock pump to lower the fuel PSI
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're running the stock mechanical pump, ditch the pressure regulator and just shim the pump to get your target fuel pressure. It will be more stable and one less thing to fail in the fuel system. Simplicity has it's advantages.
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twinfallsbass
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eaallred wrote:
If you're running the stock mechanical pump, ditch the pressure regulator and just shim the pump to get your target fuel pressure. It will be more stable and one less thing to fail in the fuel system. Simplicity has it's advantages.


Hi, thanks for the reply. I should shim between the fuel pump and the plastic base, not between the plastic base and engine block right? I know you can't give me an exact figure, but can you estimate how many gaskets I would need? I guess i would still need a pressure gauge in line to tell me where I am at? Do I use gasket sealant between the gaskets? Thanks for your time
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vdubnut58
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try 2 to start. Use sealant. Yes you will still need the gauge.
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Oil Phil-M
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
That is a good gauge. Do not replace it with a liquid filled. The readings on liquid filled gauges tend to go up as the liquid gets hot.

Not the experience I've had. Replaced that gauge twice in 2 years. Wouldn't settle back to zero when there was no pressure. Also found that after the engine was turned off the pressure gauge reading would continue to climb.

I replaced it with a liquid filled unit which has been more acccurate and doesn't bounce/flicker around. On the negative when the gauge warms up the pressure of the liquid DECREASES the gauge reading so I have a reading of zero pressure.

So it good when you first start the motor and you want to set your pressure regulator but if you've beeen driving about the city for a period of time the gauge can't let you know if you have a fuel deliver issue or not - the main reason why I installed a gauge into one of the rearward facing fuel line ports on my IDFs.
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vdubnut58
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you have 3 fuel pressure gauges that do not work properly
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we set ours on the race car when we got to each track for each weekend race.with a fully charged battery and a bypass hose conected with a .080 orfice in it if I remember corectly. Ive never set one with out a bypass,you want to know what it is flowing at speed. what defrence does it make at Idle.and the bypass system does that. of corse this is on a 632ci 2stage n02 gulping [email protected]+ in the 1/4. so a vw might be a tad defrent.perhaps a ..020-028 orfice bypass. Ive never checked my bug. it idles fine and dosent go lean standing on it. and it,s just a street bug.
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twinfallsbass
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled both the regulator and gauge and it looks like the gauge is bad. With Zero pressure to the gauge it reads around 3psi, not good. I also broke down the regulator and everything looks good, no rips in the diaphram and the spring looks good. I'm going to get a new gauge, and I think this time around I'll do things different. This time I'll install the gauge, adjust the pressure, remove the gauge and put a plug in the fitting. How's that sound

Last edited by twinfallsbass on Thu Oct 28, 2010 6:06 pm; edited 2 times in total
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vdubnut58
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a good idea. Fuel pressure gauges can be good and bad. I lost my class last time my gauge went out. I was convinced I had zero fuel pressure so I didn't make a pass. Stupid summit gauge.
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nextgen
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil filled gauges I use that are made for Motorcycles can take a beating. The oil buffers the needle movement. Also the bike gauges are made for heavy vibrations.
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twinfallsbass
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would like to hear if from people who use the Holley 12-804. Is there a break period on the diaphragm to where you have to adjust it after some time, or are they pretty solid after first adjusted?
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in my exp, they all move around, im not positive but they may be affected by weather( barrommetter) but I aint no expert.it may also depend on how much pressure you are putting tp it.and how much fuel is going through it. I'v never had one on any of my street cars. just something else to break & I dont run no2. my cars dont flood from to much and dont lean out from not enough,(o2 sensor& plug check to conferm it )so no need for it.you can always put an electric gauge on it and wach it while you are driving and shim the pump to get what you want.if possiable.good luck,keep a fire extengusher handy and dont smoke!!! oops for got NO WELDING EITHER !!!
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PedalWerks
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the pressure adjusted with the engine running or not?
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