Oil Pressure problem, HELP Pasco Bug Jam comming right up

willieb

Dp 1600 stock engine deep oil sump. I've been having oil light come on at low rpm's then it goes off when r's go up,the hotter it gets the longer it takes to go off. While taking off the pressure sending unit to put on a mechanical guage, oil comes GUSHING out. Oil level ok on dip stick as usual. wtf? can any one help I want to drive to the Bug Jam this Sunday!!! (its in a 71 Pick up) Thanx

Almost Alive · Samba Member Joined: October 12, 2009 Posts: 1345

willieb · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:00 pm Post subject:

i've read a lot on the oil pressure problem but it was the oil gusher that had me most concerned I had never seen that before. The thing had sat all night and the next day I thought all the oil would have run back into the sum by then. about the pressure problem this is a newly rebuilt engine. Maybe 2 or 3 thousand miles on it. I have no idea how good the rebuild was. I had to go in and pull the cylinders and fix an oil leak where they meet the case. I found a cracked piston when I did this, so I'm concerened about the quality of the rebuild. Trust me I have thought about the bearings being the oil pressure problem.

DarthWeber · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:21 pm Post subject:

What were the pressure readings on the gauge at idle?
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willieb · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:23 pm Post subject:

i'm going out right now to find out

willieb · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:56 pm Post subject:

I don't have a tac but in order to get the pressure to register on the, guage even 5 lbs it has to be at least 1500 rpms or so, well over idle.

DarthWeber · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:04 pm Post subject:

Somethings wrong, DUH!, you already know that Laughing

Oil pressure should drop to zero within seconds after you shut the motor off, it shouldn't stay pressurized and at 1500 RPM you should have a good amount of pressure, like 20 - 30psi at least. I'd start with the pressure control valves in the case, perhaps they are sticking??
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willieb · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:06 pm Post subject:

I shoud add: This engine ran fine, good o.p. when it was in my 64 bus It ran good pressure in the pick up until I pulled the heads and cylinders. I can't think of anything I could have done to affect the oil pressure when I had it apart. I checked the oil pick up it was tight and it did have an extention for the deep sump.
I hate to admit I'm using that bug to bus adapter to make the engine work in the bus but it had good pressure with that on there until now. and there were no big gouges on the cover.

DarthWeber · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:10 pm Post subject:

Might have picked up some crap from when you took it apart, something fell inside the case and got into the oil galleys. Are you running the stock oil screen? Is it full flowed?
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willieb · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:37 pm Post subject:

no on full flow
yes on stock screen
I'm going to pull the pressure control valve and the pressure relief falve and check them
I think you could be right about crap in the engine like rtv
when i first bought this eng I was appauled at the ammount of RTV in the old style fuel pump, that's what I said RTV in the fuel pump the cover must have leaked. I hoped the same guy didn't build the engine.
If it is rtv in the eng is there any way to get it out without tearing the engine down?

DarthWeber · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 7:53 pm Post subject:

If your oil galleys are tapped and plugged you could take all the plugs out and remove the oil cooler and try blowing air through the system but this is hit or miss at best, it may lodge the stuff in deeper like in a bearing not to mention it could be in your cooler. Sorry for the bad news but some times you just gotta bite the bullet......that RTV will get you one way or another if over applied.
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willieb · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:21 pm Post subject:

Possible find! I pulled the pressure relief plugs and found traces of what looks like RTV.
I think I'll put an external oil filter on for a little while change oil and filter do it again then give it a go.
Will the oil cooler hold small particles of shiz?
I did blow air thru and it shoved the front plunger out (that was a brain storm on my part) sometimes you get lucky.

DarthWeber · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:32 pm Post subject:

If you're real lucky the cooler is OK but you never know. Try it but keep a close eye on the oil pressure and keep a keen ear out for noises, chances are there's still a lot of that crap throughout your motor.
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RockCrusher · Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:38 pm Post subject:

I hope you realize that your working on a patch up that is going to need real attention real soon. I hope the RTV came out and that was it but I doubt it. You might want to consider switching up to 20W-50, at least temporarily so you can go to the show.

RC
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[email protected] Please use email for all general inquiries.

I will be happy to speak to anyone who has a serious inquiry (meaning real potential business for RC enterprises) or a parts order. Due to machining noise causing missed calls all calls will be returned promptly.

willieb · Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:56 am Post subject:

I took the castrol 20-50 out because I thought it might be part of the problem. You think that the heavier oil would be a better idea given the possibility of Rtv present?

Almost Alive · Samba Member Joined: October 12, 2009 Posts: 1345

willieb · Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 10:40 am Post subject:

I'll do that. I'll nurse it to the show and back then pull the engine and tear it down before it does any real damage.
I bought this truck on Eureka Ca last Jan and drove it to Pomona then shipped it from Riverside to Orlando.
I stopped in Whittier and bought a drake booster from a guy there. Darth you might know him, I don't remember his name but he had a small machine shop at his house there.???

RockCrusher · Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:50 am Post subject:

And DO NOT put Castrol anything into your engine again. Currently one of the worst oils on the market. If you want to screw someone.....just use GTX and a Fram filter on their engine. Twisted Evil

_________________
[email protected] Please use email for all general inquiries.

I will be happy to speak to anyone who has a serious inquiry (meaning real potential business for RC enterprises) or a parts order. Due to machining noise causing missed calls all calls will be returned promptly.

Almost Alive · Samba Member Joined: October 12, 2009 Posts: 1345

VR-1 is readily available, cheap and good.
Use it for the time being. After your problem is fixed your going to want to use a light weight oil. 10w30 is the thickest I would put in a normal running VW engine. I use Brad Penn 0w30 when I can but that's too thin sometimes. 5w20 seems to be the perfect weight for anything I've done but BP only offers 0w30, 10w30 and nothing in between.
Changing the weights of your oil DRAMATICALLY raises or lowers your oil temp.
In an H case stock build I just tossed together I went from 10w30 which was about 230 degrees at 60-65mph. I tossed 5w20 in it and it dropped them to 220 at 75mph. I had to get a pretty steady cruise at 65mph even to bring it up to 210 to burn the condensation off.
Personally I wouldn't put your car past 60mph until the problem is fixed. 20w50 weight will cause some major heat issues but maybe not so much since your pressure is so low right now.

willieb · Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 3:11 pm Post subject:

I will look further into the Valvoline, I used only that and Havoline for a long time. Not to beat a dead horse but, way back in the day, the ONLY thing we used was Castrol 20-50. No one know any better. In a cold climate too.Has something changed with the oil or did we just not know any better? Thanx


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