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60 Single Cab slamma-jamma!
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sled
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I needed giant notches for the CV boots and smaller notches for the actually control arms..but then again I stepped the control arms which gave me way more travel.

like Mike said, fuck keeping that cradle in there.

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this bus was trans lifted and tubbed in the back as well though.


also, with your bag mounts so close to the pivot point, you will probably have lift issues. It will need a shit load of pressure.

you going with 944/type two CV's? the bug cv's will max out and fail pretty quickly.
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dubshack1
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the input sled, you should know. I have the bug cv's in there, because my arms arnt stepped the cv's arnt in a bind.and I didnt need monster notches to clear the boots. I have the sway away axles so thet have more depth on the teeth/splines to move in and out and in the full drop they move back and forth about an inch and dont bind. I will be cutting the cradle and rear frame like you did after the first of the year, I want to drive it to a few shows then correct what needs correcting. I too wonder how the lift will be with the bag that close to the pivot, but we will see,it is a work in progress. It should be at bb in tampa,but if not deff turkey rod run and winterjam.
Tonite I did the steering box raise,was going for the full 3" but changed my mind and stuck with 2 1/4", with my press bumpers that should put it above the bumper line.I also checked my front camber, have some issues with the beam, seems the top controll arms want to walk side to side when going through the full up and down.I will look into this further,I should have pics tomorrow.
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sled
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you tubbing the rear? if not, then you're right, it wont go low enough to need notches for the CV's. the longer axles DO help, but it doesnt change the angle of the driveshaft/cv. Hopefully the bug cv's work for you, they didnt flex enough for my bus to lay frame. Also I just remembered I narrowed my whole rear suspension/torsion housing a little.
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dubshack1
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the 944 cv's, just need to buy the stub axles and flanges.I need to tub the rear,but for now that is the lowest it will go untill I fab an exhaust. I am worried about the deep sump on my engine, and cooling issues. I only plan on parking it slammed and driving it raised so shouldnt be that much of an issue.I plan on a complete rear clip,all 2x2 square and no cradle,thinking about hanging the engine and trans,kinda type 3 style? we will see.Any input on the upper controll arm issue, seems kinda weird. I plan on taking them out and double checking them.
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sled
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are they tied together by a pack of leaves?
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dasdachshund
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking great.

And like the new avitar. Applause

-dasdachshund
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my65vert
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

like sled asked, are they tied with a torsion stack? If so then your grub screw holes are off a bit possibly?

The PaddyWagen was tubbed in the rear also and needed big notches for the cv boots but small for the control arms. But I also used bay control arms which are smaller, also used bay axles for the length.
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OGJHC
Kombisutra;
I'm starting to get little wafts of bus stink coming from the north. Something about the unique scent of drivers seat padding when it's glued together with mouse piss and shit that really gets me going... and I'm smelling it! Oh yeah! Time to start loading up the equipment.
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dubshack1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes they are tied together in the top tube with the original leafs. I have done enough beams to be able to shorten them correctly. I have a feeling it is in the bottom where the independant system was fabricated.I may just go with a solid piece in the bottom,I only want front and back anyways.I am still working on it.
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sled
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dubshack1 wrote:
I may just go with a solid piece in the bottom,I only want front and back anyways.I am still working on it.


if the bottom is the issue, send it back to matt and have him fix it before you solid link the bottom, that would be horrible.
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dubshack1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I will straighten it out, Matt makes a great beam,top notch quality. I am going to make a few changes in the bushings and see if it makes any changes.
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king-tuk
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what do you mean by "walk side to side" ?
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dubshack1
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got some more work done tonite on the sc with a little help from my close friends Hans and Frans, you know who you are.We got the engine back in,all wired up,ran most of the oil lines and I remounted the oil cooler. Also looked into the front end issue. I spoke earlier today with Matt and we came to the conclusion that I had something bent. I was thinking about that yesterday. I used a beam I had left over from "the stabbin cabbin" for parts such as the upper leafs and torsion arms. I remembered that when I got TSC it had an alignment issue on the right front,so I did an alignment but it always looked like it was cambered out at the top of the right tire.It didnt bother me at the time because I knew I was building a narrowed beam from a late bus for it so I forgot about it. Tonite I took the driver side spindle back off because it was the hardest to installand was the hardest to move through a full sweep up and down. I dont have the factory tool to check the arms so I used a magnetic level and stuck it to the side plate on the beam to see how level the beam was,then stuck it to the end of the upper torsion arm where the dust cap would set and it was level meaning that the linkpin was horizontal to the beam. I then did the same on the bottom and there it was, it was off level and all to the outside meaning the linkpin on the bottom arm wasnt parralel to the beam,the bottom arm was causing the issue. I will be moding a new arm tomorrow and throwing it all back together . I hope to also be starting the SC tomorrow. Almost there and soooo ready for a weekend at BB and Rare and Unique.
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dockmaster Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAYYYYYUUUUMMMMMM Cool
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king-tuk
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Applause
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DASLWST
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ill be over later to give u a hand..waitin on the wife to get back. ill bring my camera this time!
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dubshack1
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well its been a busy weekend,still not done. I have been doing all the little stuff that takes up all the time. I got a hand today from my friends,still a few things to go,should be done tomorrow and driving. Thanks again to everyone for all the help.
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DASLWST
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i was going to post a pic.....but ill let regan post it. i will say the sc looks siiiick!!
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king-tuk
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DASLWST wrote:
well i was going to post a pic.....but ill let regan post it. i will say the sc looks siiiick!!


i'll post it!! i can't wait for Regan!!

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sorry man, had to do it!! Embarassed
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DASLWST
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well now i need to get one of your type3 beams for my square!
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rivifunbus78
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great job looks sweet cant wait for more pics.
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