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vwjoel
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2006
Posts: 205
Location: Seattle WA
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 Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:04 pm Post subject: Anti Sieze on upper A Arm Bolts |
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| Help me out here guys, I've got reoccurring suspension issue. I've got a 1984 Doka that I re did the front suspension on. I had a 1988 parts van so I used all the later front suspension parts from that one to set it up. Cast lower arms, later uprights. All new standard rubber bushings and power steering. When I got it all done I brought it to my favorite local tire shop to have the alignment set. It drove great for about a month until I noticed a clunk up front in parking lots. The left Upper A Arm had come loose and was flopping back and forth on the cam washers at low speed. I brought it back and they reset everything without a charge. Three days later I noticed the steering wheel was drifting to the left and the van was puling to the right. I checked the upper A arm bolts and the right had come loose. I brought it back to my favorite local tire shop again and they aligned it a third time. This time they said that they can't guarantee that the bolts will stay tight because I put anti sieze on the nuts and washers when I put the suspension together. Could it really be the anti sieze causing the arms to come loose or could there be something else going on? |
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hans j
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Joined: May 06, 2006
Posts: 2715
Location: Salt Lake City UT
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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I use anti seize all the time and never had an issue keeping stuff tight. Maybe try using a locking nut if they are having trouble tightening it correctly? It's a pretty big diameter and can take lots of torque.
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1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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vwjoel
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2006
Posts: 205
Location: Seattle WA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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| The A Arm bolts have the original locking nuts on them. They are 27 years old though. I could replace them with modern nylon locking nuts. Do you think if I marked the A Arm bolt location with a sharpie that I could replace the nuts without the suspension going out of true? |
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dobryan
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Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 16508
Location: Brookeville, MD
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crazyvwvanman
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Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9940
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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The original all metal locknuts are common in VW, Audi, Porsche vehicles and only about $1 at the dealer. Get the real thing. Nothing that special about the VW ones, many places sell all metal metric locknuts. Forget the plastic insert type.
N0221414 = the VW/Audi/Porsche part number
Mark |
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Merian
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Joined: January 04, 2014
Posts: 5212
Location: Orygun
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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| not familiar with this particular application but if it is a deforming type lock nut, then it is ONE USE ONLY |
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rubbachicken
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Joined: October 05, 2004
Posts: 3058
Location: socal
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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if the people who set the suspension di not tighten them up correctly, then they may well come undone.
i watched while they guy did lucy's alignment, he did not tighten up my upper control arm bolts correctly.
the torque wrench setting is 54 ft lbs.
you could always ad a dab of loctite
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vwjoel
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2006
Posts: 205
Location: Seattle WA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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| I like the idea of new factory fasteners. I didn't know the dealer would still have them. With a little blue locktite I should be good for another 30k miles. |
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zak99B5
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2014
Posts: 471
Location: Albany, NY
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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I've had the same issue with the nut coming loose and the camber/toe going out. On the same side, too, repeatedly. The left side got squared away (really tight) after only a few trips for alignment.
I used nail polish to put matchmarks on the adjusting end of the A arm bolt so I could check it. Three all in a line--one on the A arm, one on the bushing, and the third on the bolt head. The first two stay in line (since the bushing is tack welded to the arm) and give a reference to the third. Easy enough to see from outside the wheel well. You don't even need to jack it up.
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