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Flexible LED lights for interior van lighting
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human compass
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome! thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

subter wrote:
It's a dimmer switch located in the top of the shelf above the light on the right end.


Sorry to reply to such an old post. But did you remove the existing galley light? That goes for most of you that installed led lights over the stove counter. Is the galley light removed? Do you tap into the power supply from the removed galley light?

Thanks for the great posts.
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ThankYouJerry
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:

And the recommended part number is...?



Depends which bulb (door, map, etc). The site is simple to search. Easy to find what you need there.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThankYouJerry wrote:
New "Warm" white LED bar to replace OEM interior fluorescent available here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/dome-rece...tributes/2

Up till now this bar was only available with cool white that was bright but cold and sterile in color. I've ordered a warm version and will report back.


Thanks, this is the way to go for me. I had installed two of the Eurovan fluorescent lights above the sink, stove and cabinets. I will replace them with two of these warm white LED bars.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThankYouJerry wrote:
Superbrightleds.com sells LED festoon style bulbs in both single and double LED rows. They also offer cool, natural, and warm color choices.


I ordered a couple of these a while back and finally installed one last night.

I previously had the cold cathode conversion outlined here:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=267794&highlight=cold+cathode

I found the cold cathode light to be just that: cold. Very white, it made me feel like I was in my office building. And when I'm in my Vanagon, the last place on earth I want to be thinking about is the life-sucking sterility of my office building.

The warm LED's are definitely an upgrade. I really like the 180 degree rotation feature as well. I mounted one in the standard Weekender spot:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I plan on putting the other one to the rear/under the back shelf, so it can be used for reading at night, or working on the motor, or (rotated back) for extra light shining out of the hatch. I'm hoping to get to it tonight so I'll add a photo or two once I'm done.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently added these little 3 bulb LED's above the engine hatch. With a switch accessible from the rear or when lying in bed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Switch is indicated by red arrow
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Engine is illuminated enough to check oil, etc.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Having camped with these now, it was great to simply reach up and turn on a light while lying in bed. Before I had to sit up and feel around for the stock interior light.

Now I'm wondering where else I should put them. Under the dash? On the bottom of the door to illuminate the ground while door is open? They came in a roll of 20 light pods.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joetiger wrote:

The warm LED's are definitely an upgrade. I really like the 180 degree rotation feature as well. I mounted one in the standard Weekender spot:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I plan on putting the other one to the rear/under the back shelf, so it can be used for reading at night, or working on the motor, or (rotated back) for extra light shining out of the hatch. I'm hoping to get to it tonight so I'll add a photo or two once I'm done.


I just installed one of these the other day. Its a nice improvement from the stock fluorescent.

Even with a warm white tube in it, the fluorescent put as much light into your eyes as it did on the subject at hand. The swivel means that you can keep it out of your eyes easily. Very nice.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed a second one yesterday, up under the A/C shelf in the back. I tapped into the one above the table for power.

Setting up my fish tape:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Feeding through the hole:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I got lucky and the feed just popped right out the other side:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Drilled a couple of holes to feed the wires through and mounted the LED bar:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It works! The cool thing about putting it here is that it can be a reading light, a light for working on the motor, and with it rotated out, it lights up the open hatch area.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(I gotta do something about that trippy melted trim...)

ETA: I was concerned about the light blocking my view from the rearview mirror, but the angle is such that I don't see it back there.
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Tsavelle
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some images of my execution on this subject. Just a snippet here, I have more images posted in my gallery.

I must thank climberjohn for starting this thread and getting the inspiration rolling, timwhy for the tip about running wire behind the shelf without actually removing the shelf, and to heliodon for the inspiration to use angle-stock for the valance. There are too many others to thank for the suggested materials and online sources, and for contributing to collective development and vetting of this idea.

My goals from the onset were to:

1. Modernize the lighting plan with modern materials
2. Decrease the glare from the factory fixture
3. Create a dimmable solution that would allow brightness for tasks, or gentle ambient light for relaxing
4. Improve task lighting over the galley
5. Eliminate exposed and dangling wires from PO’s lighting solution above the rear seat

I had a single design directive: the fixture needed to be invisible. To an untrained eye, I wanted the aesthetic that it “came from the factory like that”.

Based on previous posts I concluded I wanted two LED strips to accomplish my task lighting goals, and I would use angle stock to create the fixture. I ran the angle the entire length of the shelf to make it as un-obtrusive as possible. I used 1”x1”x.125” angle stock and painted it to match the existing interior colors. In the end, I find it as invisible as is possible. I also got super OCD and painted the screw heads I used for mounting. Even though they are not outward facing, I feel this is a more completely “finished” solution. (Thanks to Houstonphotog for that tip from his blog.)

I obsessed over switch options. I wanted everything in a central location that was easily reached from both a seated and a standing position. I also wanted a round rocker switch. I reasoned that the aesthetic of a round switch would please the sensitivities of a German designer (see: “came from the factory like that”). I struggled to find a rocker switch that was not 7/8” in diameter. While I am not yet sold on the red, the form-factor of what I ultimately sourced is perfect. I wanted a low-profile solution, and the full size rocker would have required much larger angle dimensions to accommodate the switch. This mini-switch required a smaller through-hole, easily accommodated by my 1” aluminum stock.

I also wanted a dimmer knob in a permanent mount, as opposed to an in-line dimmer like many have used. I found a PWM dimmer with remote rheostat; as above, this choice allowed me to us a slimmer profile angle stock. The rheostat is mounted forward-facing through the valance. The circuit board I mounted to the shelf close by, offset with some plastic washers to create clearance.

I wanted to completely eliminate parasitic draw, hence the dimmer and the rocker in tandem. I discovered that most (all?) dimmers retain some current draw even when in “off” position. For long-term storage, I wanted zero draw so I added the switch.

A corollary benefit to this project: I was able to hide the wiring for the existing lighting over the rear seat by fishing it into the space behind the shelf, and to power I had already run to the closet. Again – thanks to timwhy for this tip. The dangling wires from PO were inelegant, at best.

Parts:

Angle stock came from onlinemetals.com. They were easy to work with, and have an amazing selection of raw material. I fortunately live near one of their will-call locations, but they do ship. I discovered that Rustoleum has a basic brown that nearly matches the interior. The difference is almost indiscernible.

LED tape came from superbrightleds.com. I opted for warm-white. Their customer service team was responsive and helpful when I posed questions to them. I used two 20” self-adhesive strips, and trimmed 3” off of each side. I don’t think I needed it, and plan to use the off-cuts in another project at a later date. Maybe the glove box, or something around the center console.

Dimmer switch w/ wired remote came from Pilotlights.net. They were also very responsive and helpful when I posed questions to them.

The mini-rocker switch came from Vetco Electronics; vetco.net online. If you happen to live in the Seattle metro area – you owe yourself a visit (Bellevue). It is a wonderland of parts and oddities. The staff is extra helpful and very knowledgeable. I think one could spend hours in there wondering and wandering the isles.

Vetco was also the source of the braided expanding wire management sleeve I used to keep my bundle neat. I will never go back to the corrugated plastic management option. This expansion sleeve requires a little up-front planning, but the result is much more professional and tidy; it is also lower bulk.

Once again – thank you to the myriad of folks that have contributed to this thread. I’ve read and re-read every post and they were all informative to me in formulating my plan.





Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tosed up some multi color remote controlled strips on each side of the ac tube. Tons of light, dimmable and gets your party on Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^DUDE! Are those new? Never noticed them before. You and your light show keeps getting better and better. You need to put some of those fancy lights in your roof top box and along the canopy rail that pulsate to the music Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some pictures of my LED set-up:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Xevin wrote:
^^^DUDE! Are those new? Never noticed them before. You and your light show keeps getting better and better. You need to put some of those fancy lights in your roof top box and along the canopy rail that pulsate to the music Wink
(He does)


They are so cheap and fun to use. I just ordered 32 continuous feet of "black" background strip and am planning something with it -hehe
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

newfisher, those look spiffy! Where did you tap into for power?

Also, where did you get the cargo net in front of the evaporator compartment? That is a very helpful storage solution.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ordered the cargo net from Amazon. I can not remember the size, just measured the area I wanted and ordered the net just undersized so it would be taught when hung.

The power wire runs down the left D pillar into my Blue Seas fuse panel. The remote eye sticks out of the top of the finish panel on the same D pilar
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tsavelle wrote:
Here are some images of my execution on this subject. Just a snippet here, I have more images posted in my gallery.

I must thank climberjohn for starting this thread and getting the inspiration rolling, timwhy for the tip about running wire behind the shelf without actually removing the shelf, and to heliodon for the inspiration to use angle-stock for the valance. There are too many others to thank for the suggested materials and online sources, and for contributing to collective development and vetting of this idea.

My goals from the onset were to:

1. Modernize the lighting plan with modern materials
2. Decrease the glare from the factory fixture
3. Create a dimmable solution that would allow brightness for tasks, or gentle ambient light for relaxing
4. Improve task lighting over the galley
5. Eliminate exposed and dangling wires from PO’s lighting solution above the rear seat

I had a single design directive: the fixture needed to be invisible. To an untrained eye, I wanted the aesthetic that it “came from the factory like that”.

Based on previous posts I concluded I wanted two LED strips to accomplish my task lighting goals, and I would use angle stock to create the fixture. I ran the angle the entire length of the shelf to make it as un-obtrusive as possible. I used 1”x1”x.125” angle stock and painted it to match the existing interior colors. In the end, I find it as invisible as is possible. I also got super OCD and painted the screw heads I used for mounting. Even though they are not outward facing, I feel this is a more completely “finished” solution. (Thanks to Houstonphotog for that tip from his blog.)

I obsessed over switch options. I wanted everything in a central location that was easily reached from both a seated and a standing position. I also wanted a round rocker switch. I reasoned that the aesthetic of a round switch would please the sensitivities of a German designer (see: “came from the factory like that”). I struggled to find a rocker switch that was not 7/8” in diameter. While I am not yet sold on the red, the form-factor of what I ultimately sourced is perfect. I wanted a low-profile solution, and the full size rocker would have required much larger angle dimensions to accommodate the switch. This mini-switch required a smaller through-hole, easily accommodated by my 1” aluminum stock.

I also wanted a dimmer knob in a permanent mount, as opposed to an in-line dimmer like many have used. I found a PWM dimmer with remote rheostat; as above, this choice allowed me to us a slimmer profile angle stock. The rheostat is mounted forward-facing through the valance. The circuit board I mounted to the shelf close by, offset with some plastic washers to create clearance.

I wanted to completely eliminate parasitic draw, hence the dimmer and the rocker in tandem. I discovered that most (all?) dimmers retain some current draw even when in “off” position. For long-term storage, I wanted zero draw so I added the switch.

A corollary benefit to this project: I was able to hide the wiring for the existing lighting over the rear seat by fishing it into the space behind the shelf, and to power I had already run to the closet. Again – thanks to timwhy for this tip. The dangling wires from PO were inelegant, at best.

Parts:

Angle stock came from onlinemetals.com. They were easy to work with, and have an amazing selection of raw material. I fortunately live near one of their will-call locations, but they do ship. I discovered that Rustoleum has a basic brown that nearly matches the interior. The difference is almost indiscernible.

LED tape came from superbrightleds.com. I opted for warm-white. Their customer service team was responsive and helpful when I posed questions to them. I used two 20” self-adhesive strips, and trimmed 3” off of each side. I don’t think I needed it, and plan to use the off-cuts in another project at a later date. Maybe the glove box, or something around the center console.

Dimmer switch w/ wired remote came from Pilotlights.net. They were also very responsive and helpful when I posed questions to them.

The mini-rocker switch came from Vetco Electronics; vetco.net online. If you happen to live in the Seattle metro area – you owe yourself a visit (Bellevue). It is a wonderland of parts and oddities. The staff is extra helpful and very knowledgeable. I think one could spend hours in there wondering and wandering the isles.

Vetco was also the source of the braided expanding wire management sleeve I used to keep my bundle neat. I will never go back to the corrugated plastic management option. This expansion sleeve requires a little up-front planning, but the result is much more professional and tidy; it is also lower bulk.

Once again – thank you to the myriad of folks that have contributed to this thread. I’ve read and re-read every post and they were all informative to me in formulating my plan.





Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Looks great, could you post some more detail shots of how you fit everything?
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Flexible LED lights for interior van lighting Reply with quote

Quote:
Looks great, could you post some more detail shots of how you fit everything?


X2 I too want to put a shield on the leds so the light only points down. I was thinking of cutting a dado in the shelf, but angle iron might be a better option
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 4:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Flexible LED lights for interior van lighting Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
Quote:
Looks great, could you post some more detail shots of how you fit everything?


X2 I too want to put a shield on the leds so the light only points down. I was thinking of cutting a dado in the shelf, but angle iron might be a better option


Home Depot has a bunch of different sizes.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-W-x-1-2...lsrc=aw.ds
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 10:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Flexible LED lights for interior van lighting Reply with quote

Great upgrade! Great Samba vendor! Highly recommended!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1695181

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is an easy place to tie the positive wire into power (besides the recommended cig lighter):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The negative wire is tied into the door switch wire directly above the + wire in my photo (per the directions sent with the kit).

Thank you Adrian (supdude)!!!
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Last edited by ThankYouJerry on Sun Jan 31, 2016 3:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:00 am    Post subject: Re: Flexible LED lights for interior van lighting Reply with quote

Not sure if this is the proper thread, but I was at the local junk yard a while back and found some LED's in a Ford Focus. Come to find out they were multi color ones. I believe they had 3 leads and a multitude of colors. Hooking up certain wires produced different colors....pretty spiffy Laughing
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