Windshield repair

[llilibel03]

I have extensive experience with fiberglass and none with welding, nor do I have any welding tools. So if there is an area of rust, say 3 inches long extending about an inch below the seal, could I take out the windshield, grind out the rusted section and make the repair with fiberglass (epoxy) cloth and fair it in with epoxy filler?

[Howesight]

Even though Redondo Beach is not a rust belt area, I would say you should not attempt to do this repair in fibreglass.

However, if you choose to go that route, (there will be many who will also advise against it) make sure the repaid area is very smooth, shoot epoxy primer over your repair area before the paint, and use a proper sealing compound when installing the new windshield seal.

Here's a link to one of the good compounds:

http://3mcollision.com/3m-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-08509-1.html

The other sealing compound that some people recommend is Sikaflex® 15 LM

Do not re-use the old rubber seal. There are some who say the Vanagon windshield, when installed with a quality new seal, does not require sealing compound. I used to say that too. I was wrong, very wrong.

Let me just say, we get a lot of rain here in Vancouver.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[Vanagon Nut]

[VWinVT]

I have used the 3M product and it works quite well filling the void behind the seal. It will ooze out a bit over time, but its an easy cleanup and excellent water protection.

As for the rust repair, you could try to cut some new steel and use panel adhesive. It is exceptionaly strong stuff and used in all modern cars and it is sandable so you can get a smooth finish.
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1981 Westfalia with a 2001 Cabrio ABA

Small wheel turns by the firing rod,
Big wheel turns by the grace of God.
Every time that wheel turns 'round,
You're bound to cover just a little more ground.

[Slimvest]

Without pictures of your van, it's hard to say what will work. Here's my attempt:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=638755&highlight=

USC All Metal filler. No cloth used. Windsheild leaked after a mobile glass service installed it with a new seal. Took it back to the shop and them pumped it full of something like the 3M stuff people are talking about here.

Have fun!
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'87 GL w/ Reimo top

[bluebus86]

sounds like your a doityourselfer. but you dont weld. so for all your effort the best bet is for you to remove glass, obtain replacement metal from scrap yard, then get the van and metal to a good welder. get it welded, pay the man, then take the van home and do the finish work.

i just dont see an upside to not welding the big hole closed with metal, verses fiberglass. the cost for the weld is maybe a hour of labor if you diy all the prep work, and source the replacement section. you even grind down the welds yourself to save more on labor paid time. and paying someone an hour labor for welding may not be all that more expensive than the price of the fiberglass resins, cloth, catalyst, etc.... the welded fix will be superior.

also dont cut the replacemnet metal too size until the windshield is out and full inspection of seal area can be done. there maybe more rust lurking under the seal.

anyway, spend the small amount more extra to pay a competent welder to put in a replacment metal. now if you only had a few pin holes under the seal, water proofed fillers might be ok, but for a big gap, no, the fiberglass will eventually fail badly and all your work will need be repeated.

no shame in farming out the jobs you cant do , rather than botch the job by attempting an inferior repair just cause thats what you can do. let ypu efforts go to ehat you do well, the prep and finish work, and pay only for the weld job, the one thjob that you cant do, and the one job that NEEDS to be done for a proper repair. the cost for welding is probably not much in the grand scheme of things and will form a good basis for you finish work

good luck
good luck
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Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[WestyBob]

[pomfritz]

When you are working the windshield keep the curved sides facing up, no matter how much easier it is to put the seal on with the curve facing down. Good chance you will crack the glass. Yup, pretty sure about that....
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83.5 233K. GW 2.3, SS exhaust, My German Frau named her Stefi