Cable brake information

[blendfunctionwithform]

Awesome thread, I have owned my 55 Rhd std oval gor years and adjusted my brakes many times, although I have never adjusted the cable at the handbrake as described in the first part of the instructions. Where do I measure this gap? Do i just remove the handbrake assembly at will be below? The adjustment to correct the measurement is done at the front between the beam, is that correct?

I also would like some advice on adjusting my brake light switch, my brake lights stopped coming on under braking. I have adjusted the brakes as normal but the lights still dont come on. If i wind in the screw on the brake switch they come on, but when i lock it off they either Re off or constantly on!! What is the procedure or this?

Cheers all in advance for any help.

[nlorntson]

From the Factory service Manual:

1. Remove the Frame head cover

2. Pull parking brake lever by two notches

3. Loosen counternut of brakelight switch adjusting screw.

4. Turn adjusting screw until stop lamp lights up; then turn it back until the lamp is just going out. (I imagine you could use a test light here instead of the trip to the back to see the brakelight)

5. Tighten the counternut of adjusting screw

6. Replace frame head cover.

Of course all this is done after you have properly adjusted the brakes at the wheels and the hand brake.

Also remember that the switch lights the lights when the pressure on it is removed, and the travel of the switch is really not very much.. If your lights are not going out I wonder if your switch has gone bad?

[blendfunctionwithform]

Thank you for the quick response. I didn't know that about the switch.

Yesterday I lay under the front of the car with a lead light next to my head and the main garage light off. The ignition was on and hand brake on 2 clicks, I turned the screw until the lights came on, I then backed off until I was just near the divide between on and off. I then locked it off. I would then release the handbrake and he bloody lights stayed on! I adjusted it slightly under and then they wouldn't come on at all? I had to be careful locking off the screw with the ignition on as you get through fuses that way. I think you are right about getting the adjustment correct before fiddling with it.

Where do I take this measurement? Where is this?:

2. Check the clearance between the handbrake push bar and the foot brake push bar (approximately 0.04) at the handbrake lever. If necessary, adjust the handbrake push bar. You do this by removing the tiny cotter pin and spring plate at the front and screwing the fine adjustment pin in or out as needed. Basically the hand brake should not be putting any pressure on the foot brake.

Later I will try to adjust the light switch with someone applying the handbrake/brakes on /off whilst I try to adjust it. It's very fiddly with a 7mm spanner!

Thanks once again for your help.

[nlorntson]

This adjustment is up front here:

Also, what shape is your return spring. That is what pulls the whole works back and would put pressure on the switch to open the brake light circuit.

[blendfunctionwithform]

Thanks for the reply. The lever looks like the photographs as far as I can remember, I will check tomorrow.

Where is the 0.04mm measurement taken? Is that at the front or under the handbrake assembly?

Cheers (This is very helpful indeed)

[nlorntson]

Sorry it isn't super clear but the measurement is 1 mm or .04"

It's just the distance between the hand brake rod (the silver colored part that screws in or out of the hand brake end with the square tip in the picture above) and the backside of the foot brake rod where the cables all hook in.

It's right where the arrow points to.

[blendfunctionwithform]

Roger that.

Thanks a lot, I'll go and have a look now. Have a good weekend.

[Tempie]

must say, this thread is a goldmine for all standard owners. I own a early 55 standard ragtop, and because the "cable brakes" did not change a single bit in those years, everything is the same. Thanx to all contributors it is very simple to understand it...
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[early55oval]

Hi with an early 55 we have the ebrake with the adjustmnent in the the frame head under the inspection cover.... is there a diagram of this anywhere?....2 cables and a rod with 2 plates a cotter pin and a flat spring washer tab....thanks

[blood]

the spring that hooks onto the foot pushrod just below the 4 cable slots goes into the frame head, where does that spring attach? I cannot find the hookup point in the frame head of my Kubelwagen, sure appreciate any photos or drawings/ guidance. BTW that original post was very well done A+

[Low Bräu]

I have a kind of dumb question regarding the parking brake and the stop light circuit on the cable brake cars. When I pull my parking brake up the brake light goes on whether the key is on or off.

Should the fine adjustment on the switch or rod allow the parking brake to engage before the light is activated or should the parking brake be on a keyed ignition circuit (15) so when the key is off the brake lights don't stay on and kill the battery?

thanks
j.
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Independent German Auto
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Specializing in repair and maintenance for Porsche, BMW, Mini, Audi, and Volkswagen.

1952 Standard Beetle
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[nlorntson]

[kubel42]

Hello everybody, I am in the middle of restoring a 1942 kubelwagen and have got to the chassis restoration. I have noticed that it is missing all the parts for the handbrake as mentioned on this thread, together with some of the brake parts as well. I have been searching for the required parts and have so far come up blank. Could someone on here please advise me where I might be able to find any of the parts needed to complete my restoration, thanks.

[nlorntson]

[blood]

Dear Kubel42. Do you have the parts catalog so you can identify all of your needed parts. I have just gone thru the brakes on my 44 kubel and have a surplus brake push rod early version available. Fair amount of stuff from the CZ and Polish outfitters is for sale. front drums are now coming on the market from Tom. Rears have been available. Cables are easy. Loose hardware seems to be only used. I myself need one adjuster bolt located on each backing plate. It's the one with locking serrations under the 17 mm head, 10 mm by 1.50 mm pitch threads. Let's get that list up and see what's out there. David in Nashville

[kubel42]

Hi David,
I do have the Kubel parts catalogue and the first parts I am looking for are:

10715161 - brake pressure rod (attached to handbrake)
10716143 - service brake rod (which I can get in Poland)
10716183 - cover for the pressure rod

and that's without getting into the brake drums - I know I am missing various parts for them as well, but without these to start me off I am considering converting it to hydraulics -if it will get the Kubel back on the road after so long.

Thanks

Dave

[Two Glove Boxes]

Not a cable brake question but I have enjoyed this thread when I first started restoring my standard.
So my question is anyone know who rerivets brake shoes?

Thanks,
Mark

[usariemen]

[Two Glove Boxes]

[usariemen]

Well, maybe not easy to explain for me in english.
It is simple.
Remove the old lining. Clean and if you like repaint the shoe.
There exist special tools for workshops which reline brakes frequently.
I do not explain now how those work.
I just use a punch that fits the rivets head as a counterpreassure part.
I clamp the punch in a vice and start with the middle rivets and go step by step to the outer ones.
You place the rivets head on the punch, the rivet goes through the lining and through the shoe and the end of the rivet wich peaks through the inner side of the shoe you just hammer flat. One after the other.
Those rivets are quite soft and it is not hard to do.
I am not sure if you get the picture by my explanation.
But you can see how the old ones looked like. Just find your way to fix the new ones like them.
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