1776 to 2110 singleport

[kingodirtp3]

so here's what i have now:
10w-30 royal purple
145, 60 on weber icts
412 trans stock 68 bug
fuel presure to 3
w100,
dual ICTs with vacuum to distributor,
SVDA distibutor,
8.3-1 CR,
1.25 rockers,
HD rocker shafts,
chro-mo pushrods,
single HD springs,
opened up exhaust port, intake valve cut back, 3 angle valve job,
1 3/8" header w/ cherrybomb oval turbo muffler custom routing,
breather box,
full flow filter,
10mm studs w/ case savers,
26mm stock oil pump,
stock doghouse cooler,
all tin, flaps and thermostat too,
stock 4 dowel crank non-cw,
everything balanced
here's what i want for the 2110:
82 C/W crank, 90.5b pistons, rods, pushrods, pushrod tubes, gasket set, bearings, and cylinder shims.
what i'm not sure about is 5.4 or 5.5 rods, H or I beam?
should i go up to a 110 cam?
should i keep my CR at 8.3?
will the stock flanged heaterboxes cause increased head temps since they
are restricting the flow?
should i go up to a 1.5in exhaust instead of the 1 3/8ths? if so what
merged header will clear the thermostat?
i will be getting a new AS41 case to build this from thats clearance,
opened up for 90.5, full flowed and welded behind #3.
my current set up is lacking in torque on hills and runs out of breath around 4500-5000.
so please let me know what y'all think!

[kingodirtp3]

74 views and no replies?

[vwracerdave]

Your SP 2110cc with ICT's seems like a foolish bastard combination to me. You would be far better off keeping the 1776, buying some good ported and polished 40 X 35.5 dual port heads, CW crank, W-120 cam with your 1.25 rockers Dual 40 IDF's with 32mm venturies and yes a 1 1/2" exhaust.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

[Luis ''Diablo'' Gutierrez]

i have a 1776sp and i handport the heads and a 40mm single dell with a manifold that i make out of handicap bathroom rails(stainless) and w110 pulls hard but i cant go lower than 1100-rpm, it was my first build and everything used except the cylinder and pistons,

[modok]

If you were to use a 74 or at most 76 stroke it would make sense.

But the heads and carbs are just too small for a 2110, just too small.
Such an engine would have a powerband of like 1700-3200 rpm. The cooling fan does not cool well down in the lower rpms ya know........so it would have a very limited happy zone.........perhaps good for a generator or airplane or something, but not a road going vw.

[kingodirtp3]

thanks for the posts. i talked with DRDracingheads and he's the one who told me to go 82 instead of 78.
i know he's a respectable guy and does quality work. i trust his opinion and i'll get most fo the stuff from him.
what about the heater boxes causing too much heat with 2007 or 2110?
also i dont want as high power tuned 1776 that makes power in the high
range, i'd rather have a detuned stroker that makes torque in the low
range.

[modok]

So he told you to build a 2110 with stock singleport heads?
No way! Really?

[vwracerdave]

Good luck with your build.

I think you will be very disappointed with the results for the money you will be spending on this engine.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

[66brm]

[kingodirtp3]

i called DRD about his engien kit. i was just going to do a 1955 or 2007.
but then he told me i should just go 82 crank since it'll be easier to build.
i made sure he knew i had singleport heads and ICTs and all that, he said it would drive great with lots of torque, btu it would fall off around
4500 which is fine since i dont go past that anyway.
my heads have had some work done to them, cut back intakes, opened up exhaust some, 3angle valve job, single hd springs. i'm also using 1.25 rockers with 100 cam.
it would cost me about 1000 more for heads and carbs and i just dont have that to spend now.
woudl someone that actually has a stroker singleport reply too and give me a real world point of view?
i drove my friends bus with a 1955 stroker completely stock carb exhaust
and heads (dp). it drove great with lots of power all the way through 5k.
if his is that good with all stock intake and exhaust then mine should be really nice.

[modok]

I have a 1904 singleport. 37x32 valves web 86 cam DOES THAT COUNT? haha
I find it drives great shifting at the stock shift points on the speedo!
It's not really "fast" but it drives very nice.
I would not want the powerband any lower. No accounting for taste though, build a tractor motor it if it is what you want.

[mark tucker]

[kingodirtp3]

ok, so i'm looking at spending 1800 for this 2110.
what do yall suggest i do with the money as far as getting more torque out of my engine?
a stroker crank cost about the same any size.
but if icould use my pistons and rods and get big valve heads and come decent carbs n exhaust with a smaller stroke?

[modok]

So are you going to build another engine?
Since you need diferent heads and pistons and crank and carbs it seems like that would be the thing to do.

I still say drop a 74 stroke in you current setup.......
But you want to FEEL the power doncha

[kingodirtp3]

tea, i definately want a power icnrease, in the low and mid range. i know i could just upgrade the 1776 with heads carbs n cam. but id rather stroke it out.
i cant afford to do both. upgradign the 1776 will only bring more power in the mid to upper end and it will be little strung out.
were as a detuned stroker will make the torque i want without breakign a sweat.
i thin kthe detuned stroker will outlive a high strung 1776.
so no i need help finding about where to put my money.

[66brm]

My recommendation is 74mm stroke, same p&c and rods, tims stg 1 and dual 40 webers or dells and a good merged header
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[kingodirtp3]

about how much of an increase in power will that be? kinda sux cause of the money
i spent on the heads, and i just bought CBs manifolds and air cleaners for the ICTs.
what cam to go with that combo 66brm?
i was goign to get a new case and just build up another long block so i'd have a spare when i retire in japan.

[66brm]

The amount of power will depend on different factors including cam, you are best to speak to tims and see what they recommend for your application and how you would like to drive it. I like to steer on the conservative side with cams because I'm more into torque than outright hp. Something that puts your ass in the seat rather than a 1/4 mile wonder. The 100 cam you had is pretty mild for a 1776 so I would definately look at the W110 and 1.25:1 rockers, its the same combination I have in a 1600 with 044 40x35.5 and from 2000rpm up in the lower gears, you have to be ready to shift pretty quick.
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[Airborne]

[quote="kingodirtp3"]tea, i definately want a power icnrease, in the low and mid range. i know i could just upgrade the 1776 with heads carbs n cam.


Don't do this you regret it later. I did rebuild it this way did after 1000 miles I wished I had gone the 82mm way. I don't know if you can wait and save up a little more its only 500 to 650 more for decent heads its a fraction of the total cost Or just put the single ports heads on and buy better heads when you have the $

[kingodirtp3]

i'll give DRD another call and i'll call steve tims. i'll see what they say.
i wanna buy everythign from one person, i mean from one actual person instead of just a parts store.