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advice please on my Syncro
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Syncro's are junk plagued with problems, just put it on a truck and send it to me I'll take care of it. Rolling Eyes

Ha that's the oldest TheSamba trick ever. You should give me your car, I am doing you a favor. Laughing
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JeffDenson
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Its a bit of a cheap shot, but you do know that a Bentley manual will be the least expensive thing you'll buy for the syncro Smile


the cabinet bolt question is answered there. but in a word, yes

alistair
I will get one I heard that I should.

I did not take off those three bolts. .
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

home team, yup you're right, just the one. I was translocating that bracket close to van wall right back where the floor angles up to engine deck (by wardrobe).

alistair
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Home Team Van
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Its a bit of a cheap shot, but you do know that a Bentley manual will be the least expensive thing you'll buy for the syncro Smile


the cabinet bolt question is answered there. but in a word, yes

alistair


as far as I know there is only the one floor bolt for the whole cabinet which is easily visible under the sink.
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a bit of a cheap shot, but you do know that a Bentley manual will be the least expensive thing you'll buy for the syncro Smile


the cabinet bolt question is answered there. but in a word, yes

alistair
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Home Team Van
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did ya get the bracket that's on the wall under the actual sink? there's 3 bolts that screw into the fridge/stove cabinet from the water tank cabinet too.
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Last edited by Home Team Van on Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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JeffDenson
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JunkYarDog wrote:
Syncro's are junk plagued with problems, just put it on a truck and send it to me I'll take care of it. Rolling Eyes
I don't think its ready to go to the junkyard yet Very Happy

I did undo the vent. I was wondering if there is a floor bolt under the fridge like there was under the oven/sink.
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Home Team Van
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes all the window seals are available. you can get the seals with or without the grooves for the chrome looking plastic edging. I believe the seals with grooves are more then of course you have to buy the edging too if you go that route,.

When you say you can't get the fridge out are you talking about the whole cabinet or just the fridge? Did you undo the flue vent on the outside of the van?
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JunkYarDog
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncro's are junk plagued with problems, just put it on a truck and send it to me I'll take care of it. Rolling Eyes
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JeffDenson
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the help! I got the seats, carpet, sink/stove top off. Is there a bolt under the fridge? I am having a hard time getting the fridge out?

On the rust I have a lot of spots under my windows that are rusting out. I plan on removing all the windows and send it to the body shop. I have a guy that works with me that has done glass work for years. He is going to help me with that. I have lots of rust even at the back window. I am guessing I can still get all the glass molding/ weather striping?
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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

candyman wrote:
Just be careful with the rodent debris don't wanna be breathing that shit


Please heed Candyman's advice - it is really serious. Exclamation On a different note - next time name the post so someone searching for the same info can find it. In other words you are dealing with mice and removing interior pieces - so the title could have reflected that. There's nothing specific to the Syncro at all in what you are doing.

John
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And find the source of the moisture.

It can be coming from the utility ports..
or from the vertical panel seams..
or from the window area..

My Westy.. which only shows a slight discoloration hint of corrosion near the leading front edge of that horizontal kitchen seam.. leaks from all three of those locations.

If you decide to pull the water cabinet, too, you'll likely find corrosion along the seams of the rear wheel well arch.


If you do not source and close up these leak source(s).. all your hard work to repair rust can be undone, maybe in just a yr or two.

If water is allowed to pool in there and sit? You'll be seriously bummed.


I removed my kitchen unit about a year ago.. Its been out since.
The project can lead to lots more work. Be prepared for that.
I was and am not ready to do the vertical seam repair.. so I will leave the kitchen unit out which makes this problem area much more accessible. I can mop up water when it accumulates, monitor the rust along the lower seam(which has been sealed with POR-15 from the inside), and determine if a temp fix will seal those vertical seams well enough (the ports are an easy fix, BTW)

My kitchen window shows one area with signs of rust, as well. That will have to come out before the project could be called "complete".


I'd recommend you NOT rush it.
I have personally seen a van (nearby my home) that had a lower seam panel repair done, new paint on the entire van, and then it rusted thru again within 2-3 yrs.
The van was not garaged. And it lived in a foggy coastal environment.

Good luck with your project.. even with the cleanup work, that van is a very nice find.
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DAIZEE
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

by the way a non carpet floor is easier to clean and/or to dry when gets wet. I had laminate (floating) put in mine. Then keep a piece of rug for outside the slider. Guess you have to stick with carpet up front. I pressure washed my front formed carpet, put down new underlay and reused that carpet. I threw out the underpad due to all the years of rodent urine.
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Home Team Van
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ckissick wrote:
While the fridge is out, it's a good time to do the GoWesty upgrade that makes it easier to fire up on the propane.


and to soundproof, replace insulation, replace fridge fan, replace water lines, put in hard wood floors, etc... Laughing it goes on and on.

Once you get everything out you'll be able to see the extent of the rust. Only then will you be able to figure out the best way to tackle it. Once I replaced that lower panel I did coat the inside wall behind the stove/sink with bed liner just for piece of mind. I have a lot of pics showing how I fixed mine. Let me know if you want to see anything.
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ckissick
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While the fridge is out, it's a good time to do the GoWesty upgrade that makes it easier to fire up on the propane.
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OwnYourReality
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JeffDenson wrote:
Thanks for the info. Taking pictures is a great idea! So what do I do to stop the damage on the inside Question I was thing line x coating Question

Best to "use the search" for that one. Type in 'rust', or 'rust repair' & you'll get a plethora of info. Wink There's more opinions about it then there are colors. I spent hours upon hours sifting thru it, then researching & sifting some more before I tore down my Syncro this summer to tackle the job. Well worth the effort for sure. Lots of experience to draw from in these forums. Enjoy the bonding time with your new van, looks like fun.
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OwnYourReality
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JeffDenson wrote:
Thanks for the info. Taking pictures is a great idea! So what do I do to stop the damage on the inside Question I was thing line x coating Question

Best to "use the search" for that one. Type in 'rust', or 'rust repair' & you'll get a plethora of info. Wink There's more opinions about it then there are colors. I spent hours upon hours sifting thru it, then researching & sifting some more before I tore down my Syncro this summer to tackle the job. Well worth the effort for sure. Lots of experience to draw from in these forums. Enjoy the bonding time with your new van, looks like fun.
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JeffDenson
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. Taking pictures is a great idea! So what do I do to stop the damage on the inside Question I was thing line x coating Question
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Home Team Van
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem with that rust is that it's probably worse on the inside. Mine didn't look anywhere near that bad on the outside but I ended up cutting out the panel and replacing it. Because the insulation inside the van retains moisture they rust from the inside out. Fixing what you see on the outside won't solve your problem. here are the steps to removing the interior from a previous post of mine.

Home Team Van wrote:


crystal... Laughing It really isn't difficult. Just bag and label everything. Pictures while it's still together would help you too. Don't forget to unhook your battery. I just put my interior back in so from memory:

Starting with the bench seat there are 3 floor bolts, 2 bolts attaching to the engine deck, 2 brackets(one to the water cabinet and one under the back ash tray). Actually before removing the bench you need to remove the armrest beside it. There is a screw at the bottom rear of the armrest then pull it back towards the rear of the van.

Overhead cabinet has 2 bolts going thru to the closet and I think 3 bolts with brackets that attach to the bed above. Access them from inside the overhead cab.

The closet has 1 bracket attached to the engine deck right at the rear edge of the van and 1 visible inside the closet. there is also 1 screw thru a plate inside the closet. There will be 2 bolts connecting the closet to the water cabinet. You may need to unscrew part of the upper bed to remove the closet. I didn't but I did need to to put it back in.

To remove the water cabinet first unscrew the cap from the bottom of the tank. It took me a few minutes to realize what was going on there. Rolling Eyes unhook the receptacle and fuse from the water cab and push inside cab. Unhook the power from the pump and from the side of the water tank.You can unhook the water vent, fill hose and hose that go to faucet from inside or pull the box from the outside of the van and unhook from there. Remove 3 bolts that go into the frig cabinet.

Sink and stove. Unscrew the vent on the outside. the frig is connected to it. Make sure the propane is off and disconnect 2 lines at tank. Look in this cabinet and unhook plugs for faucet and frig. Unhook propane lines inside cabinet. Unplug frig from receptacle and remove receptacle. Unhook 1 hose that acts as the drain. unhook 2 hoses that go to faucet. there is 1 bracket that is attached to the wall of the van near where the camping fuses are. There is one bolt attaching the cabinet to the floor. remove bracket that holds front table.

I'm sure I left some stuff out but that should get you most of the way.

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JeffDenson
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
In addition to worrying about all of the mouse stuff you should be aware that campers rust from the inside out along the the driver's side wall. Be prepared to deal with rust issues and remove the factory fiberglass in that wall as it is contributing to the problem. Sad
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
So do you think getting that wall coated with line x would be a good Idea? Of course after all rust is removed.

Thanks for the link, and all the help! What would we do with out forums!
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