rear window question

Bones 53 · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:13 am Post subject: rear window question

My son has a 67 bug and wants a rear window defoger. Will a later year with a defoger fit? If so which years? Thanks

marklee · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:51 am Post subject:

up to 71...
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PSScoots · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:32 am Post subject:

Be careful with the purchase. A lot of times in used glass, the heating elements are broken and you can't see the damage. You should at least do a continuity test to be sure that ANY of the wires are still intact. Maybe somebody knows a way to test each wire individually.
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Bones 53 · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:11 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the info!!

drscope · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:13 am Post subject:

Does anyone still make a glue on defroster or are those a thing of the past?

Maybe a small fan in the parcel area blowing on the rear window would help.
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69vwguy · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:34 am Post subject:

Does anyone know if the 69 beetle came with a rear defroster? Mine has always had one (doesnt work) but I never thought it was a standard option. Just wondering if anyone knows?

Miklo · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:40 am Post subject:

I've worked on a 69, it had a rear defroster.
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VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:55 am Post subject:

69vwguy · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:55 am Post subject:

Pretty sure I know how to do it but does anyone have any advice on tracing the lines and testing where the problem is so I can maybe have it work again?

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:12 am Post subject:

All these can be performed out of the car.

12 volt power on one side Ground on the other.

Lightly trace across each strip with a test light near the power then ground sides, as well as across each strip. If you find an area where the test light quickly changes from either on to off, or, off to on, you have found a break.

Feel. It will get warm as it heats up when powered. You can use a IR thermometer too.

And probably the most dangerous, but it works. Take fine steel wool, stray it so it resembles a 1 inch very fine brush. With the glass powered up lightly swab across (side to side not up and down) a long each glass strip one at a time. If you see a spark, thats a break. BE CAREFULL as I have had the steel wool actually burst into flames after it sparks. Dont cross over from one strip to the another either.
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Bruce · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:35 pm Post subject:

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:19 pm Post subject:

The test light works. If there is a break in a leg it is essentialy an open circuit, and will change the light from either on or off or vice versa, depending if you have your test light clamp to power or ground. You can also test the voltage drop of each leg the same way.

You can feel the temeprature change. Not everyone has the same sensitivity, that's why I suggested the IR thermometer. It is a heater and does generate heat. It is best to start with a cool glass, and feel it on the inside, not the outside.

I repair grids all the time. So it is not pointless in my opinion.
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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69vwguy · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:27 pm Post subject:

So what do you do when you find a break to repair it?

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:33 pm Post subject:

Depending on the type of grid there are a few inexpensive grid repairs available.

Here is a kit, but it is more than finding a good used VW defroster glass.

http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2700.htm

Cheapest way by far for most is to have a glass shop repair it for you, if you dont want to invest in a repair kit.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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Bruce · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:30 pm Post subject:

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:34 am Post subject:

I understand more than basic electrical testing. I agree the current will flow around a break on the remaining operational grid lines, but the voltage and ground are still still there on both sides of a break waiting for a path to ground to complete. The light gives it the path it needs. Grids are nothing more than parrallel wires. If you have a break in a leg you will have voltage on one side of the break and ground on the other. The light will change state after the break. The determining factor of the state of the lamp depends on where you have the clamp end of the test light positive or negative.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited


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