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Ball joint beam question...
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blitzschnell racing
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Joined: May 27, 2007
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Location: Oakhurst, California
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

5/8 cut and turn is possible without breaking leafs, not saying im running that much. and your on spot with turning the bottom more than the top. then you can run a stiffer torsion bar in the top as the stiffer ones aka sway away will break if you twist them too much. also make sure your getting german torsion bars.
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

blitzschnell racing wrote:
Have you looked at the stock location of the torsion bars as they sit? You should tell that to VW cause there not the same setting. I dont play with my car I race it, beat the crap out of it. You can cut and turn over a half an inch and not break leafs if there real german ones. I know that turning one more than the other works cause i do, also depends on what you do as far as swapping in Sway away or thing bars to the set. Theres alot of variables, try it and see? You can get another beam if you dont like it. Adjusters suck cause when you break the adjuster bolt off your screwed and yah, usually you adjust and dont ever change it. If I had a street/play car id try cut and turn on one and adjuster on the other. Your not gona ruin anything, Ive raced the 1000 with one set completely broken and the other set holding the car up.....think outside the box, thats how 11 racers have all the tricks. And 1/4 turn is nothing on a offroad beam.


I've had my adjuster break on my front and it does suck. gives ya an instant slammed car. looking at the break it appeared the set screw broke. There was no rust so it was either stress or defect. I got about 50 k miles on em .I'm not sure but since it was the set screw that broke, that could happen without adjuster I have thousands of miles pounding on fire roads but i no jumping or real radical driving cause my car is more of a get me there and get me back as opposed to a fun toy. I came to the conclusion that next time i wouldn't use adjusters, ...


but i'm building a new front end with thing spindles and since i'm going to have the clearance i want already i'm a little gun shy to turn the front to tall so i will be putting in adjusters again. But as said they will be adjusted at first to tune the front but i'm sure they will never get adjusted after that. my last ones got adjusted and never touched again.

Are the thing torsions different? I am building of a thing beam i have and wondering what to expect.
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traviswx1
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advise! It was just what I was looking for!
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69 Baja, 091, 2x3, cage, 1600dp, bj front, and a sh!t load of labor!
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1970DARKNESS
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I broke 3 adjusters so I think they suck. I now cut and turn 1/4 inch and have had no problems for 2 years plus.
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Lotrat
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You gotta ask yourself the question. Street, Off-road toy, or racecar?

There are a few guys here that can tell you what works on a race car.
There are a handful that can tell you what works off-road.
There are a ton that can cut and paste a quote from the baja bible.

The Baja Book says 1/8" to 1/4".
Hibbard says this will make it "a little stiff for trips back and forth to work, so you better enjoy every crack in the road."

Class 11 racers use 1/2" to 9/16".
"Ball joint front end with stock leaves about 9/16 if you want to run good and hard. The less you do the slower you will go."

One of the racers said he went 5/8" a few years back. You need to figure out what you want and qualify the advice you are hearing.

IMO 1/4" is plenty for a toy. The ride will suck on the freeway. My front end has not softened up any since I cut and turned mine 3 years ago. Even at 1/4" you "should" install hookstops and your stock shocks will be too short. Go beyond 1/4" and change "should" to "must".

and before I forget... How stiff is 1/4" cut and turn? This stiff:

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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lotrats got the idea

to consider also
is you front already lighter than stock?
are the torsions already worn and will you reuse the same ones?
And do you drive your car loaded with gear?

Mine has 2 adjusters .. i would say they were adjusted to 5/8 beyond stock. I have a full body car and dont remember how it drove in the beginning (been a long while) but dont recall it ever being obnoxiously stiff. I do recall that it felt really good when it was loaded full with two passengers and lots of gear. besides breaking the adjuster my torsion springs i think are worn cause it sits about 2" lower than when i first built it

stops for the arms are a good idea..i know the stops on mine have been "working" cause i'm starting to develop a crack where my stop is.
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