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Floor Pan Replacement Questions
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sportin-wood
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Atx67beetle wrote:
After looking over your thread, I think that I might take an idea from your cars PO and just coat the entire interior, radio and all with undercoating!!! JK, that interior paint job on your car is one of those things that just makes you scratch your head and say, wft? What was going through the head of the person with the paint can in their hand?


Tell me about it! LOL Laughing
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Atx67beetle
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After looking over your thread, I think that I might take an idea from your cars PO and just coat the entire interior, radio and all with undercoating!!! JK, that interior paint job on your car is one of those things that just makes you scratch your head and say, wft? What was going through the head of the person with the paint can in their hand?
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sportin-wood
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may use that Quick Roof as well. It would be applied over 2 coats of POR15.
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Atx67beetle
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After doing some reading I opted to not use the rubberized undercoating on the top of the pans. At this point I've sealed the seams, primed and painted (rattle can) them.

Sportin, are you planning on putting the Eastwood Thermo Acoustic on top of paint? Or what are you putting down prior to it? I am planning on using quick roof on mine, I've read good things about that product and I'm on a limited budget.
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sportin-wood
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Atx67beetle wrote:
I sealed up my floor pan seams using Dynatron seam sealer, a 3m product. It went on well, but I don't have any long term results. I used a paint brush with a bit of acetone on it to smooth out the beads. It looks nice. I sprayed the bottom of the pans with primer, rubberized undercoating and paint, all duplicolor rattle can stuff. I'm going to do the top side of the pans next, but I'm up in the air on weather to use the undercoating. I want it to be as quiet as possible but I'm worried that the undercoating might be a bad idea on the seat tracks? Perhaps I'll just mask them off. Thoughts?


I've read bad things about using the rubberized undercoating on the top side of the pans. I just finished having both replacement pans welded in place, and am about to apply the Dynatron Seam Sealer on the top and bottom seams of both pans. Eastwood makes an awesome product for the top side of the pans that'll protect the surface and work as a sound barrier.
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Eastwood also sells the rubbercoating needed for the bottom side in both 28oz size
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

As well as in rattle can
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Atx67beetle
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sealed up my floor pan seams using Dynatron seam sealer, a 3m product. It went on well, but I don't have any long term results. I used a paint brush with a bit of acetone on it to smooth out the beads. It looks nice. I sprayed the bottom of the pans with primer, rubberized undercoating and paint, all duplicolor rattle can stuff. I'm going to do the top side of the pans next, but I'm up in the air on weather to use the undercoating. I want it to be as quiet as possible but I'm worried that the undercoating might be a bad idea on the seat tracks? Perhaps I'll just mask them off. Thoughts?
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dysan
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any ideas on the seam sealer? 3M? SEM? Anybody with experience with these have any input (positive or negative)?

Also, from what I've read looks like most seam sealers claim they bond to painted surface, but I was thinking of doing all the welding, then soda blasting, sealing, POR15 (or similar) then final coat/soundproofing.... any suggestions?

thanks guys.... Very Happy
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

,,,sure thing...drop some drifts in the lower frame head section...actually up into them, then put some drifts in the rear shock tower areas for full alignment...sinch it down and tack her up...be carefull when lisfting the body that you dont get all caught up and drop it!!!
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Atx67beetle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick replies! Smile
Schell, After sleeping on it, I had the same idea in my head... Drop the body on and tack the pans in, then remove the body in order to finish welding the pans on.

Where the lift is concerned... My daughter and I are tackling this restoration project together. She's been quite helpful, has learned a lot, and we're both having a blast working on it! One advantage of having an attractive 16 year old daughter is there are plenty of young men willing to come help with some lifting. I'll just have to make sure to leave some gun magazines around, and run them all off when we are done. I often find myself having the "I don't mind going 'back' to prison" chat with boys, but it seems to be working so far.
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vaughn bros.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

30 degrees in the shop. I lay down a Uhaul blanky and plug up the heating system. Tape on kraft paper all around the heater channels. Press and draw a pattern and then lay it out. Its just the way I did it today.


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schell '59
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...ill work but easier with a vehicle lift...if you ave a bunh of guys to help lift and slowly let it down i guess thats do able too. tack them in place once adjusted then unbolt em from the channels....and hoist the body back off. the better the pans,the better the fit. if you grab the new WW pans and simply cut all the old pans off at the factory pinch welds and weld lines,your gonna be fine if you have factory channels.
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Atx67beetle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:27 am    Post subject: Newbie floor pan question... Reply with quote

I'm tearing into my 1st VW beetle project, a 67 beetle. I've got the engine out, body off, and old rusty floor pans out. I'm currently working on the front end, replacing ball joints, tie rod ends, and shocks. Next are the new floor pans. I took some (but I'm afraid not enough) measurements before pulling out the old floor pans and I'm growing concerned about proper placement of the new ones. Is there a reason that I couldn't bolt the floor pans to the body (with new seals) then weld the pans in place after dropping the body back on the chassis? It looks like I will need to pull the tabs that hold the brake line out of the way, along with removing the master cylinder. Does anyone have experience with this method?
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah no flex!! Utech e350 epoxy and single stage tech almond mix...he he go figure...
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buguy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah they should use your picture in their add for epoxy!! Didnt you also say that you didnt add felx in it? I know many now have some flex properties without it, but damn!
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah she wore tires pretty bad Wink

Funny thing is the paint didn't even chip off through the wrinkles...and some say epoxy isn't the "glue" over bare metal....hmmmmm
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

schell '59 wrote:
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just think Tim. you have the start to a nascar frame. it is already pointing left. Very Happy





JK buddy glad you made it throw it.
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah i know you were brother i was referring to the topic at hand!!

no worries my freind!
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oldskool7_11
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was being sarcastic. the p.o. just used "glue" to put the pans on my car and i found out when my seat suddenly dropped a few inches because the "glue" did not hold. i know they should be welded and now they will be.
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

..if this car did not have the pans welded in correctly,the floor wold have tore way from the tunnel and who knows what else i would have broke..instead it crinkled and separated from the channel ...pulling the nut serts right out of the channel.

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you can see the carpet just above the backing plate..the fender well was completely folded in half...you can also see the almond floor pan in flat config instead of being floded and separated.

just like this pic from before you can see the stress the floor take:
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's not about "liking" to weld em in..it's pretty much the way it should be done...period.

your licky you didn't get in an accident with that thing..and if you did,i hope you faired well!!

it's a structural part of the chassis and ties so many areas together for complete integrity and strength...to just scetion pans and gaff stuff in is only gonna bite you in the ass.

and just plain lazy.
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