EG33 Vanagon Adventure

[JWPATE]

Considering the low pressure return hose to the P/S reservoir, it will be found that the engine wants 10mm ID hose, while the steel return line wants 12.

This barb fitting makes possible a Rube Goldberg hose section consisting of the right size ID for both the Vanagon and the EG33.

The final decision on the heater feed is seen here, using the original feed pipe and a hose section to take it over the clutch and across the transmission top.

What is needed it a support clamp or holder, located somewhere near this unused hole in the bell housing. The threads in that hole at the end of the pointer are 12 mm, and too large for a normal clamp strap.

So back with the drills and taps again. The larger bolt will go in tight with red loctite. The 8 mm bolt will attach a hose holder.

[JWPATE]

So, I got the accessory belts on and tightened up. The Subaru SM suggests very tight gauge settings for these belts. I set them both at 150 pounds. Seems too tight, but they are new and will stretch out a little I guess.

The flywheel is new to this engine, as it was auto before. I did get a set of the longer bolts. Don't know what Subaru suggests for a torque setting. I put them in at 55 pounds.

This 240 mm clutch takes nine bolts, where the other Subaru clutch types take six. Again I don't know what Subaru recommends for tightening torque on these M8x1.25 bolts. The bolt head numbers are 8 and those are the only ones I remember seeing with that number. The number seven bolts always take about 12 pounds torque and the number nine bolts generally take 20. Anyway I tightened this set of clutch bolts to 18 pounds.

That is a big hunk of clutch for such a small bell housing, so we shall see if it hangs up in there.

And yup, it does! The first time I put the transmission on and snugged up the bolts, the engine would not turn at all. It was frozen up completely by the clutch fouling inside the bell housing.

If ever another member decides to use the 240 mm clutch with a RJES bell housing, expect to take off some metal here just inside the starter motor opening. I have already made one pass over the area in this photo. The highest spots on the clutch housing were painted with Prussian blue and you can see that I still have more metal to remove. I went through this exercise probably five times or so, before finally the engine turned smoothly and there was no blue marker inside the bell housing. Then I took off just a little more metal, and built the thing back up.

And I do believe now, at long last, I am ready for getting on with final assembly
In fact, I already have the transaxle full of fresh oil.

[JWPATE]

DETAILS, DETAILS......

And one last detail was on my mental list of things to do before the engine goes in. Because I brought them out so close together, it has always been in the back of my mind to put a label there. May avoid confusion in the future.

[JWPATE]

The Rocky Mountain Westy exhaust was designed to be part of the complete RMW package, which for some engine types, is now available as a complete kit.

So far as I am aware, this is the first effort to use this exhaust with a RJES bell housing. I knew before ordering it, that there may be fit problems. As seen here, there is!

The forward cross pipe fouls with the RJES bell housing flange, as seen here. Some modification will be required.

First, I used an aluminum file and removed as much of the RJES flange as seemed wise.

Then I start "modification" of the cross pipe. I waited a day, in the hope that I could think of a more elegant approach than this. Couldn't though.

Use something to protect the "good" side of the pipe. This leather bag is filled with lead shot-pellets.

I only deformed the pipe sufficient to get this paper towel through without catching anywhere. Not another blow, honest.

Even so, this was what was required.

And seen here looking through the pipe. As Johnny used to sing - "I don't like it.....but I guess things happen that way".

After that modification, the system went in just as expected. The ground clearance looks great to this poor peasant.

RMW have come up with a terrific design on this exhaust. There isn't much room to work with, and this layout takes advantage of it all.

Much more room here, without a muffler/cat to deal with. Notice how the system extends down only about as far as the cut-down oil pan.

Whee! This final assembly part is fun.

Everything up here is ready, so far as I know. I just have the EGR pipe and the O2 sensors to go.

Getting close to the moment of truth.

[mwolf5682]

Sir,

I wet myself just a little, every time I check out your post. A leather shot filled bag, you are the master. Surprised you did not use selective application of heat.

What a beautiful project! Hoping we can get video when you fire it up, so we can see your big grin.

Thanks so much for sharing this with us.

[j_dirge]

James,
A little off topic.

Do you have either of the SVX OEM cast headers on hand?
I am wondering how much clearance is gained with RMWs exhaust over the OEM headers?

Beautiful work!

TIA,
jim
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

[JWPATE]

Thanks for the encouragement, and I still worry that something has been forgotten or not done as well as it might have been.

But no, I am not set up for video. Sorry. Heck, I am only just able to handle the still photos.

And as to the cast iron headers, I scrapped them a few months back. From memory though they would extend down a good deal more than these neat headers from Rocky Mountain Mike.

I finished up all the little details today, so it is time to put in the fluids.

That very small oil filter mounts vertically on the EG33, just as shown here. It is best in this case to fill it with oil before screwing it on, as that will save a few seconds in building up initial oil pressure.

Any non-detergent, 30-weight oil would be fine for break in purposes, but I was over at Amsoil today anyway, so picked it up there.

[Rocky Mountain Westy]

[r39o]

I had nearly the same issue with the Vanaru header and the Small Car bellhousing. I am not surprised, BUT, I had to do nothing as it was close but still a cigar.

At least my transmission oil can be drained.....

_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[JWPATE]

'At least my transmission oil can be drained.....

Yup, but it all is a trade-off, isn't it? Every choice we make has its up-side and its down-side. Every advantage comes with its own restrictions and sometimes with nasty surprises.

Such decisions are never as easy as we might wish. Tradeoffs are part of the game. Usually years go by before we work out all the various aspects of the choices made in haste. THIS IS WHY WE SHARE OUR TRIALS - OUR SUCCESS - AND OUR FAILURES. Together, we can learn from each other.

In this case, the best course may have been to cut out the center section of that cross pipe, and weld in a curved section, which would have cleared the bell housing flange as well as the drain plug. That is still in the back of my mind.

But it really isn't that big a deal to take off the left side exhaust when the need for transaxle oil change comes around. I take off the entire exhaust system on the 911 C2 for each and every service cycle. It is normal and routine practice.

[syncrodoka]

[JWPATE]

[syncrodoka]

I am always impressed with how thorough you have been with this build.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I'm disappointed with the lack of gold-plated fasteners, but other than that, this is an exceptional build.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[James 93SLC]

[r39o]

[JWPATE]

To fill the coolant system, I raised the rear of the vanagon sufficiently that the reservoir outlets were six inches or so above the level of the radiator top. Then just fill until the level in the reservoir no longer goes down. Finally, go and bleed the radiator, rear heater, and on the RMW coolant pipe.

And then after checking one last time, oil level, coolant and PS pump I went up and reconnected the battery ground.

Turned the key on, could hear the fuel pump cycle and noted pressure on the fuel pressure gauge. Then in a moment of high drama, I hit the starter. It didn't seem like more than a single revolution and the EG33 fired up.

IT'S ALIVE.............IT'S ALIVE

The oil pressure came up quickly and is strong. It really does sound smooth and strong. Only let it run for a few seconds, for I knew it would need more P/S fluid. Did this routine several times and after the first start it comes alive when you hit the starter.

Doesn't sound like a Vanagon anymore though.

Then I let it have longer runs, while bleeding the power steering rack of air and so forth. Probably I have five minutes or so on it now.

It's not ready yet for a test drive as there are issues to resolve first. The check engine light is always on, and I know nothing about how to check those codes or how to get the light out. Must study up on that.

The main issue is that it starts up at about three thousand RPM (on the VW gauge that is - I expect it is wrong but seems in the ballpark). I rev it up a little and it really responds nicely but will only idle down to 2500 or so, even after running a minute or more. So I don't know what is going on there. Don't know either how to hook up a stand-alone RPM meter to this EG33........there are no high tension wires.

Then, there is this......

See that drop of coolant? It leaked out at the joint of the thermostat cover. I can't remember just now what the gasket arrangement was there. But at least it is easy to get at. And that is the only leak of any kind that I have noted, so thankful so far.

[Rocky Mountain Westy]

[Franklinstower]

Congratulations!

thats OBD1 correct? If so, I believe you can use the B10 Scan Software to monitor the engine conditions. It just takes an old laptop and a serial cable from the laptop to the ECU test connector.

What kind of tach hookup did you use? Does it sound like it is idling as high as your tachometer says?

My first startup had a leak at the exact same spot. When I pulled the T-stat housing, i inadvertanly put the T-stat in upside down and I couldn't figure out why the temp was climbing so high!

Here is a list of codes:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/SubaruTroubleCodeDefinitions
_________________
'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[insyncro]