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EG33 Vanagon Adventure
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Franklinstower
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Last edited by Franklinstower on Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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JWPATE
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dunno what happened with the above posting. There is no message?

Good progress today, and getting close now.

I took off all of the intake system in order to have better access to the black box again. The two problem plugs on the wiring harness were T2G and T2E. They contained the right wires, but had the female connector where the male should have been - and vice versa on the other set. I cut them both off, did continuity checks on the four wires to be certain, and spliced the correct plugs on.

Now all the lights are wired and working as they should.

For whatever reason, when I started it up after the above work, it idles right where it should??? First it comes on fast for just a few seconds, than settles right back to 1200 on my unmodified RPM gauge. After a few minutes (Aux air valve closing) it goes to 1000 RPM on the gauge and oh is it smooth. So much so, that I let it idle today for a while, as I watched the coolant temp. in the various pipes with one of those hand-held temp. guns. It all seems to work just as expected. After the temp gauge on the Vanagon reaches normal range, I could detect the thermostat open and the return pipe begin to warm up.

Getting antsy now for a road test, but the one remaining issue is the Alt. light. It never goes out after start, and I will look into that tomorrow.
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Franklinstower
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i will try again, for some reason my post above doesn't appear, but it does when I preview it?

here it is again:

If you do a search, I have posted the alt light fix. It involves a cut and splice behind the fuse panel. Takes 5 minutes. Try this:

http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/Pending_Content...ghtFix.pdf

Paul
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JWPATE
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANKS

And I will take a look at that tomorrow. The panel in your link is for the '86 and newer Vanagons. I will have to see how they did it on the '84 model. It may still be able to isolate the alt warning circuit.
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JWPATE
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, the alternator light problem was just what several members suggested. The Vanagon left the factory with already one pigtail taking off the alt light circuit and running to the O2 light milage switch. There it connected with a diode in the connecting receptacle, so that if the milage switch is closed, the alt. light also will find a ground and light up.

I had already eliminated that device, to that wire is just ended in heat shrink.

Then at the Hannover operation with Westfalia, another couple of plug connectors were added, in order to run a second pigtail back to provide switched power to the fridge relay. This is the one that gives us problems on the Subaru conversions. Worked OK with the simple VW harness, but now this draw adds up to enough to keep the Alt light on after the ground back in the alternator has been removed (by the engine running and voltage replacing the ground path).

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The link provided above by Franklinstower is the way to go for '86 and later Westy's, but it will not help us here. I had to take off the instrument cluster to be certain I was tracing the correct wire. It is the blue wire on pin 11 (and not 13 as shown in the Bentley). Anyway, it is the only blue wire so trace it down.

With this rats-nest of wires and plugs it will not be completed in five minutes. Having been here before over the years, I didn't look forward to sorting this out. But go slow and you will first find the pigtail taking off for the O2 switch, and next will be the wire we are looking for. Cut it, add enough length as seen here to reach a switched power source, then heat shrink on the cut off stub and the splice. Attach a female spade plug and decide where to power it - I added it to the rear window heat, which I have never used anyway.

And at last, all the indicator light issues are resolved.

I did have it under its own power today, in the process of switching it around for easier access to that fuse panel side. Boy is that a nice clutch. Thanks to Dylan for suggesting it.


Last edited by JWPATE on Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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JWPATE
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This device arrived yesterday, and so I got it in today. A product of DAKOTA DIGITAL, this model SGI-8 has the single purpose of recalibrating an ignition system tachometer signal, thus allowing OEM tachometers to read correctly with engines having more or less cylinders that original.

We have to locate the correct wire first of all, and with the '84 models it will require a search. Only the later vans of that year had the tach, and it isn't included in the Bentley wiring section. The '85 model used a green wire through pin 9 of the instrument cluster plug. It turns out that '84's also used pin 9, but the color is red with black stripe.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Wire it up according to the instructions and set the switches for a six cylinder engine and four cylinder gauge. I decided to just leave it inside the instrument cluster cavity, after securing the wires with a tie.

And it works perfectly! With the tach now indicating correctly, I decided to take that first road test. I went about ten miles this first time out and stopped half way through it to fill up with gas and check for any sign of leaks.

I LOVE THIS THING! The van is a new experience with the SVX engine. It is so quiet at idle that except for the tach you might think it had stopped running. It pulls without effort from 1000 RPM in forth gear (level surface), and is smooth and quiet at all speeds. Oil pressure is 45 at 3000 rpm and 10 at idle. Idle speed warm is between 600 and 700. Throttle response is so quick one has to adjust to the power available. Oil temp. stabilized at 190 and held there, so no problem for now. By Summer I will have the external oil cooler plumbed in. Coolant temp. came up nicely to about 8:30 on the gauge and held there.

This was a great afternoon for old James.

I suppose the intent of this thread has now reached its conclusion. I do already have thoughts of different gearing, but that is another subject. Let me thank you all again for following the progress, and for jumping in when you recognized the errors and mistakes. It has certainly been worth the effort for myself, and your assistance is still greatly appreciated.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on a job done masterfully, James!

I'm intrigued by your Dakota Digital box. I have the SGI-5 box that I'm planning to use to convert another project car's speedometer from mechanical to electronic. So, it's good to see that they have other items for the tach signals, which I may need to use in the future.
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Destructo
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James, this thread and others like it are the reason we check this forum incessantly. Your attention to detail and pictures provided give us all the urge to get under our vans and DO SOMETHING!! Very Happy
I absolutely loved this thread and want to at least hear updates now and then. I hope that when I finally dig into my own SVX project, I can bounce questions your way for sage advice.
On behalf of the rest of the Samba members, thank you so much for participating on this forum! (clapping emoticon, you get the idea)
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bravo James!! Bravo!!
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James 93SLC
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
Congrats on a job done masterfully, James!

I'm intrigued by your Dakota Digital box. I have the SGI-5 box that I'm planning to use to convert another project car's speedometer from mechanical to electronic. So, it's good to see that they have other items for the tach signals, which I may need to use in the future.


For the SGI-8 model, Dakota Digital claims "Product not compatible with '86-91 VW Vanagon's and other similar models".

I was looking at this for my VR6 conversion and dismissed it due to this statement.

Confused Confused
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presslab
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James 93SLC wrote:
Confused Confused


JWPATE has an '84 Vanagon. This tachometer is different than the later models.
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bac914
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

James, Congratulations on a job well done. A big thanks for taking the time to post your findings and techniques and share your knowledge. I just finished replacing head gaskets on my EG33. Your photos and discussion let me see what was ahead of me before even turning a wrench.

Great Stuff.
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James 93SLC
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

presslab wrote:
James 93SLC wrote:
Confused Confused


JWPATE has an '84 Vanagon. This tachometer is different than the later models.


OK, that makes sense.
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whafalia
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Mr. Pate, your thoroughness and attention to detail is inspirational and it sounds like you got the commensurate results. Your archetype is now the shop teacher in the back of my mind chiding me when I take a short cut or perhaps nodding approvingly if I happen to do something right. The high point for me was when you nickel-plated some fasteners 'cause you didn't want to wait for paint to dry.

And, is that a leather covered dash?
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Spinal Tap
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like all good things, it looks like this story and thread have come to an end. Sad

Thanks for taking us along for the ride. Happy trails! Razz
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