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2WD Setup Like a 4WD
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r39o
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

targis58 wrote:
Peloquin.

I had it put in while my trans was rebuilt by German transaxles.

Oh, I bought the one that s lockable so I can install locker in the future

I inquired about this locking option at Rancho. They believe it is not ready for production yet. Will check Monday.

They quoted me little money to install it in my fresh rebuild before I install it.

These few threads are making me want to put the LLSD in.

They will let me know on Monday if the Peloquin LLSD really exists.

What do you need to add or do to make it really lock?
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The forces of physics come to bear on traction and the tendancy to spin or not spin in a surprisingly simple way. I'll discuss as to two different rear engined vehicles of very similar weight, rear drive and a very similar front/rear split of weight. Essentially bus vs Vanagon.

The amount of traction available in a pair of contact patches is determined by the weight (downforce) on them. The ability to move the vehicle forward with that available traction is determined by how much vehicle weight must be overcome to initiate forward movement. Pretty simple.

For two vehicles with extremely similar weight, with extremely similar weight distribution, on the same surface and a flat surface there'd be very little difference in each vehicle's ability to generate forward movement.

Now come the variables when you hit bumps - I'll just mention the biggies.

Tires are a clear one and I'm going to assume they're the same which is a huge assumption because in reality this creates huge differences.

Another variable is rear suspension design and spring rates. Let's divvy them and discuss spring rates first. Springs push down on the contact patches with a force equal to the weight of the vehicle on the rear of the car - and we already said that was the same. However, when you hit a bump of lets say an inch with ONE tire, some springs will compress easily (soft) and maintain fairly equal contact patch traction. Harder springs will not - actually reducing the weight on the other tire and allowing it to break traction and spin. What makes a spring "softer" is that it is compressible an inch with only a little more force where harder springs will only compress that inch with a lot more force. The latter are said to be more progressive or rising rate springs - common. It's the RATE of progressivity that varies - essentially all automotive springs are progressive.

Turning to suspension, various types of suspensions are better or worse at maintaining that ideal equally balanced traction at each contact patch during the variability of typical surfaces. Some designs have enormous friction, some have enormously heavy components, and some take the tire in an arc or angle as the suspension compresses. These all bear on traction by briefly changing the amount of downforce where better designs are consistent. I don't know what the bus rear suspension is like, but it would seem logical that VW designed the Vanagon better having learned lessons, technology moved on, etc. So suspension type would also explain a difference in traction though I'd be surprised if this area favored the bus.

There are a myriad of other suspension differences that would account for a markedly different traction capability of two otherwise very similar vehicles, such as dynamic weight transfer from front to rear during acceleration, wheelbase, differential design, engine torque curve, etc. But these two (spring, suspension design) would be the big ones worth discussing.

If you're still reading this, I'd suggest that the bus's superior traction would most likely be a subjective thing. Meaning actual measurement might reveal the newer model to be superior with identical tires. It would be quite surprising to find that the Vanagon's suspension is not better than the bus' at finding traction.

DougM
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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ericos_bob wrote:
I believe you could greatly enhance the 2wds offroad performance with some suspension work. Always found my bay window had much softer suspension than the 2wd vanagon. Perhaps a combination of a longer stretched out spring with the same rate as stock w plus a 2" shock extension by using greater angle cv joints like the porsche 944s would remedie the inferior 2wd vanagons traction issues when comparing them to their predecessors. By increasing drop down by 2" or so over stock while increasing total wheel travel by 2". I'm sure this would wake up a 2wds offroad abilities dramatically. Throw in a diff lock and you'd have it all. Ok maybe some staun internal bead locks so you can run the tyres down to 10 psi along with some big rubber.

MMM come to think of it I'm glad I have a syncro Razz Even if it is only a front wheel drive at the moment


I've wondered about how feasible it would be to increase suspension travel as well - lots of good thoughts here!
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240Gordy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Williamtaylor33 wrote:
240Gordy wrote:
vanagonjr wrote:
I'm still a bit mystified why 2WD Vanagons are so bad off-road,


unlimited slip diferential maybe? or as other said above, 1WD.

almost no articulation. My split window would go alot of places my 2wd vanagon would go. If I ever go back to 2wd it will be a splitwindow westy.

Pulling the e-brake alittle is a cheap way to stop that other wheel from spinning.


I think the current enquiry was why on perfectly level smooth ground, if it is a bit slippery, a Vanagon is so apt to spin a wheel and thus go nowhere. Applying the handbrake while an effective remedy does not explain the root problem.

Is there something going on that I am overlooking, that requires more than a few inches of articulation? Like I think I am slipping on flat ground, but one wheel is actually a couple inches lower in a rut or pothole and that is why it is slipping, unloaded? I measured a set of front shocks today, maybe 3 or 4 inches max difference from compressed to extended!
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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boulderdrop wrote:
vanagonjr wrote:
I still plan to install my Syncro trans some day


To get the granny-gear?


Yes, and the Locking diff my trans has.
boulderdrop wrote:
I've wondered if it was possible to (admittedly leotarded expensive $$) convert the driveline to a Syncro aka put in a syncro-tranny, decoupler, drive-line-axle, front-diff, front-control-arms, front-diff, cv/axles and wheels, etc (hahah). You know, all of the really spendy stuff in a syncro. Smile But basically convert the 2WD drive-line to a syncro and ignore everything else.


Well, I don't know if I am following, But you have to get the gas tank out of the front for the front drive shaft, install the Syncro one in the rear, use a lower engine carrier to fit the tank, so at that point you have basically done it all. Once rare, apparently 2WD to Syncro has been done a fair amount now. If I had a garage (and did not receive threats from my wife) I would have kept all the parts from the parts Syncro I got for a future conversion.
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dubbified
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IN reading this thread, I've got a 90 weekender, and I just went 3.73 R/P and the GW LSD, with a rebuild from GTA. Hope it is a improvement.

I've got BFG's and seem to like the offroad handling, Ice without posi was a trick.

Since I'm at engine/trans rebuild time, am going 2.25L with ratio rocker build on the engine at Northwest Connecting rod. Hopefully it stands up to the test of time..

should have it all back together in a couple weeks Smile hopefully put a little early spring camping. Razz


Last edited by dubbified on Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:32 am; edited 1 time in total
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ericos_bob
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe you could greatly enhance the 2wds offroad performance with some suspension work. Always found my bay window had much softer suspension than the 2wd vanagon. Perhaps a combination of a longer stretched out spring with the same rate as stock w plus a 2" shock extension by using greater angle cv joints like the porsche 944s would remedie the inferior 2wd vanagons traction issues when comparing them to their predecessors. By increasing drop down by 2" or so over stock while increasing total wheel travel by 2". I'm sure this would wake up a 2wds offroad abilities dramatically. Throw in a diff lock and you'd have it all. Ok maybe some staun internal bead locks so you can run the tyres down to 10 psi along with some big rubber.

MMM come to think of it I'm glad I have a syncro Razz Even if it is only a front wheel drive at the moment
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Farfrumwork
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah, I've been wanting a √4wd (square root of 4wd) sticker ala syncro style. "2WD" doesn't have enough geek in it, and I'll have a locker so "1WD" won't be fitting.

To those that think it is some kind of sacrilege Rolling Eyes

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Farfrumwork
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boulderdrop wrote:
71MYSTABOO wrote:
Hey boulderdrop, are you sure you had it in granny? Mine is very much lower than 1st.


Pretty sure, unless that sinka tranny was f'd up. Cause, the shift knob showed "R" in the normal spot, with a push-down, over and forward... and the G-gear was also push-down, over and back.

I guess that could have been another CON for the SINKA, if I had known what the G-gear felt like. Seemed a lot like 1st to me, but it was a tad lower. (the speedo was in KM and it had been a while since my WBX, so it was a totally different feeling VW). <shrug>


The G-gear is 6.03 (the same as reverse), and 1st is 3.67 That's a big ratio difference (the same ratio drop as 2nd to 3rd)

1st______2nd____3rd___4th______G-gear_____reverse
3.77778/ 2.0625 /1.225 /0.854167 /6.0277778/ 6.0277778
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BlackDogVan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want a 1WD syncro style sticker for my van.
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boulderdrop
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

71MYSTABOO wrote:
Hey boulderdrop, are you sure you had it in granny? Mine is very much lower than 1st.


Pretty sure, unless that sinka tranny was f'd up. Cause, the shift knob showed "R" in the normal spot, with a push-down, over and forward... and the G-gear was also push-down, over and back.

I guess that could have been another CON for the SINKA, if I had known what the G-gear felt like. Seemed a lot like 1st to me, but it was a tad lower. (the speedo was in KM and it had been a while since my WBX, so it was a totally different feeling VW). <shrug>
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I was deeply surprised at how bad my Carat was compared to all the Bays and the splits I had. Main reason I'm into Syncros!

Hey boulderdrop, are you sure you had it in granny? Mine is very much lower than 1st.
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Williamtaylor33
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

240Gordy wrote:
vanagonjr wrote:
I'm still a bit mystified why 2WD Vanagons are so bad off-road,


unlimited slip diferential maybe? or as other said above, 1WD.

almost no articulation. My split window would go alot of places my 2wd vanagon would go. If I ever go back to 2wd it will be a splitwindow westy.

Pulling the e-brake alittle is a cheap way to stop that other wheel from spinning.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

boulderdrop wrote:

I played around with a SinKa last week and it's granny gear. It felt a lot like the stock 1st gear in a 2WD and went a lot faster than I thought it would. I really couldn't tell how it was better than a normal 1st.


Unless there's something different about a SinKa that I'm unaware of, Syncro G-gear is significantly and noticeably lower than first and very useful on the trail.

http://www.club80-90syncro.co.uk/Syncro_website/Te...os%205.htm
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240Gordy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagonjr wrote:
I'm still a bit mystified why 2WD Vanagons are so bad off-road,


unlimited slip diferential maybe? or as other said above, 1WD.
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Tencentlife said,
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagonjr wrote:
I still plan to install my Syncro trans some day


To get the granny-gear?

I played around with a SinKa last week and it's granny gear. It felt a lot like the stock 1st gear in a 2WD and went a lot faster than I thought it would. I really couldn't tell how it was better than a normal 1st and I don't have the tech-knowledge as to why it is.

I've wondered if it was possible to (admittedly leotarded expensive $$) convert the driveline to a Syncro aka put in a syncro-tranny, decoupler, drive-line-axle, front-diff, front-control-arms, front-diff, cv/axles and wheels, etc (hahah). You know, all of the really spendy stuff in a syncro. Smile But basically convert the 2WD drive-line to a syncro and ignore everything else.
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== My Rides ==
1984 Westy, Bostig, 3rd:1.14, Locker-LSD, Newly Painted
1980 24' J-Boat
1979 Sears Freespirit Moped
1996 Chev S10 4x4 ZR2
2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid (Wife's)

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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still a bit mystified why 2WD Vanagons are so bad off-road, especially when Bays seem to have no problems. Yes, I been told the bay has better suspension travel - but I've been stuck on flat wet grass, as others.

Yes, I know the weight distribution for the Bay is better, but I've off-roaded with a Toyota T-100 P/U around Moab and barely used 4WD, and never used the front and diff locks. Granted, it had killer tires, but still I usually engaged 4WD as not to beat up the truck or the road (except for one really sandy road.) and then only for limited sections. I'd blame it on the high-pressure small tires, but Bays have those as well and apparently from the sounds of this thread, better tires certainly help but the vehicle is still somewhat marginal.

I still plan to install my Syncro trans some day and probably get better suited tires that I can air (way) down. Luckily we have lots of ground clearance which for hard packed dirt roads is often only what you need. I'm not looking for a killer off road machine - in fact, maybe I should forget the off road (I'm in New England anyway) and just lower it and embrace the street - great handling these things are for being vans!

John
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

shizzon wrote:
Quote:
Got stuck, spinning my wheels on the packed-snow/ice parking lot of the local ski-resort.


Was it steep? How much snow? ...i've been hoping an LLSD would save me from similar situations at CO ski areas ... Rolling Eyes


Nope, it was flat as a pancake. We got about 3' and although they (kind of) plow the parking-lots, it had 10" of new and was vehicle-packed and was pretty much a sheet of ice. 3 people helped push me and it really didn't take much, as they could barely stand. One it started rolling, no problem. But with cable-chains and the LLSD, no problem whatsoever. In the stock setup, cable chains still would been the savior and the LLSD wouldn't have made much difference, except if there was some grade or loose snow on the surface.
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== My Rides ==
1984 Westy, Bostig, 3rd:1.14, Locker-LSD, Newly Painted
1980 24' J-Boat
1979 Sears Freespirit Moped
1996 Chev S10 4x4 ZR2
2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid (Wife's)

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Got stuck, spinning my wheels on the packed-snow/ice parking lot of the local ski-resort.


Was it steep? How much snow? ...i've been hoping an LLSD would save me from similar situations at CO ski areas ... Rolling Eyes
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BlackDogVan
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish Wavetrac would embrace the vanagon...

http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm
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