Buying a used motor what to look for?

medic4.life

How's it going,
Well I been having issues with my bug and I decided pay a shop to fix it I was told that my main bearings are bad. Causing crankshaft to have play, also causing the timing to be out of wack not being able to properly tune. Was told need complete engine rebuild and new carb. For engine rebuild was quoted 1687 for dual port 1600cc motor. I was shocked on the pricing, then my dad came across an ad on craigslist that in St. George theirs a VW shop selling rebuilt motors its a 2hr drive though. For less than a grand we don't mind the drive, but just curious how or what is the proper way to check motors to make sure their decent?

Bart Dunn · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 5:44 pm Post subject:

By reputation of the builder, more than anything. It's hard to rebuild an engine properly for a grand. If they've got all their work in-house (case machining, head rebuilding, etc.), maybe, but then I'd wonder about the quality of the parts, too.
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morymob · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:45 pm Post subject:

1st i would request a itemized list of things done, (line bore case, rebuilt or new heads etc) all parts replaced and if used/new, and warranty in miles/time, usually whichever comes first. Also do they test run the engine, how long as lifter/cam break in can be critical at this time, oil press reading when HOT and a compression test after any running completed, these no's also recorded. This is to be in writing, dated and signed byshop owner. It's your money and they are to build a satisfactory engine. Any shop that balks, says they never had to do this is full of it and reason to move on.This may sound severe but isn't, seen too many people burned without no adjustments made by builder, it's for your protection, new cars have a warranty and dealers on their work (some rotten apples are there too),so same applies to your engine.I f u go back to 1st shop don't feed them any information whatsoever as to methods to test = bad bearings,???, they may pick any one of the things u say as their diagnostic, just act DUMB as a brick,read up here in the forums and educate yourself enuf to be able to understand engine functions etc. and demand the above also.

OLD VW NUT · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 8:04 pm Post subject:

Look for the word 'reground' in any description. If the engine builder can't remember exactly what they have inside the motor I'd shop elsewhere. While there isn't anything wrong with some reground parts such as crankshafts and resurfaced flywheels - some things like lifters and cam followers are cheap insurance and should be bought new. Too often reground lifters and cams do not get similar heat treatment after regrinding - and rapid wear is often the result.

Look for an external oil filter too - very important. Add one if you have to.

One other thing - since you live in Vegas forget the big bore 1641 or 1687 motors. Sure - you'll get more power - for a while. But the cylinder base starts leaking in as little as 5000 miles - and the thin head to cylinder surface area tends to allow blowby - causing a loud thump every time that cylinder fires. The stock 1585 size is best for your area with the heat you experience in the summertime. If you want larger get the 1776 - it uses the same cylinder thickness as stock and will last just as long. The 1835 is the same as the 1641/1687 - thin cylinder wall thickness and the same over heating issues.
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71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore

Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI

medic4.life · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 8:26 pm Post subject:

The information I have given to the shop that checked my motor. Was that it runs well but theirs moments the vehicle will sputter and die. I found it was vapor locking so converted to electric fuel pump. Vehicle does run smoother no more flat spots but still the issue persist after long driving once a while it would shut off. Before the conversion I had the issue everytime rpm's drop. So I bought a new carberator in case they needed one but was told engine needs rebuild

vdubnut58 · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 8:39 pm Post subject:

Have you checked out the wagon in Vegas? An engine rebuild isn't the best time to shop for the lowest price. You should be shopping by reputation.

OLD VW NUT · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:02 pm Post subject:

medic4.life · Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:57 pm Post subject:

Yea I do have play on my crankshaft. I have about an half inch play, when I push I hear the clunk in the back of the motor. Then when I pull I hear it close to the front. When I timed the motor by using a test light, setting the rotor to 1st cyl and crank pulley to second notch. Then i rotate dizzy counter clockwise till light comes on I get knocking.
So I adjust the dizzy by sound till knocking goes away. I have no vacuum lines, I have checked the intake seal by spraying carb cleaner listening for rpm to jump a bit theirs no air leak their. I bought a new carburetor just in case if the shop report back that carburetor was the issue. Ill be placing the new carburetor tom see how that goes.

OLD VW NUT · Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:24 am Post subject:

One half inch of end play?

Stock end play is .003-.005".

You aren't exaggerating are you?

It doesn't sound like your troubles are carburetor related.
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71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore

Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI

medic4.life · Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:36 am Post subject:

No sir not exaggerating half inch play .5" of play. I had my dad come over and help me out. He was able to measure the play able to get right measurement.

OLD VW NUT · Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:45 am Post subject:

I've seen a lot of very tired ACVW engines in my life and have never seen one that would move that much. Maybe .20" or so - maybe some that could move a bit more than that.

And they usually are junk through and through.

Forget putting a carb on that motor - you need a new motor.
_________________
71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore

Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI

morymob · Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 4:33 am Post subject:

It would be interesting to find out how u can have 1/2" end play, maybe someone tried to use a center main bearing instesd ofone piece.

Erik G · Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 8:52 am Post subject:

we had a motor dubbed "wonder motor" as in, you wonder what's in it, it ran like a bat out of hell, and you wonder how it's still running, it had a quarter inch of endplay easily. It also leaked oil like crazy, literally a trail that you could follow. It was nuts. your motor is a gonner for shure
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