Electric Door Locks

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

Currently. Passenger side door and slider locks are stuck open and I can't move either of them by pushing on the lock buttons or with the key.

Drivers side door is functioning as it would if it were a non electric .

Few weeks ago I had erratic locks. Then it settled down and all functioned manually as if they were non electric.

Actuator, broken wires or both ? A fuse ?

thanks

syncrodoka · Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:19 pm Post subject:

http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=314

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

I printed that out before posting. But thanks

syncrodoka · Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:32 pm Post subject:

The answer to your question is in that writeup. You need to open up the door panel and inspect the actuator and verify continuity of the wires going through the accordian bellow.

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

Have done my reading on the gowesty article. Drivers door panel off. Looks like someone had been there before as the plastic has been cut and retaped. The little bellows has come somewhat apart. I checked for voltage at the plastic connector before the actuator. 12V at the red, 12V at white ( didn't check yellow).

So, buy an actuator and check a new one installed as per gowesty library? Has my original post and current info shed any light to anyone ?

tx

rockfish · Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:58 pm Post subject:

Check the passenger side as well.
_________________
89 Westy
GW 2.5 5-speed trans

"It's what you learn after you know it all that counts."
- John Wooden

stevey88 · Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:22 pm Post subject:

If you suspect the driver side actuator has a problem, you should unplug it and check if the passenger door and the sliding door operate normally now. If suddenly you can not push the buttons down on the passenger and the sliding door and it works before, it could be the driver door is sending the signal for them to unlock all the time. The two wires, yellow and white tells the actuators to go up or down. Only one of the wires should have +12V, but I forgot which one is for up and which one is for down. When you, say, pull up the driver side knob, the wire that has no voltage before will now have 12V. The other actuators see the 12V and the motors will move the knobs up. You will then see 12V on this wire all the time. The other wire that has 12V now gets no volts. Does this make sense to you ?
_________________
Steve

87 Westfalia full camper 4 speed

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

stevey88

As I noted in my first post, passenger and slider locks are in the up position. I cannot push them down, nor can I turn a key in those two locks. Drivers door and rear hatch are operating as if manual.

I'll try unplugging the drivers actuator,as you mentioned, and see what happens to the other side. Tx

vanjoe · Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:59 pm Post subject:

This is ironic. I was coming on here to report about my power locks. Here are some pics.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/791982.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/791981.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/791983.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/791980.jpg

These pics are of the little springs for a set of contacts that slide up and down. I disassembled my actuators(very simple to do). They were corroded but no broken contacts. But the springs were broke. I bench tested the motors and they checked good. Cleaned up the actuator and went to the hardware store and found replacement springs. I was surprised they had the exact same size. The lady even gave them to me. So those little springs just saved me a lot of $$$$$ not having to buy new actuators. So I reassembled the actuators and bench tested. I reinstalled them into my van and the tested the drivers door first and nothing. Crying or Very sad

Tested the passenger door and both the drivers and passenger door would lock and unlock with no problem. Checked voltage and 12v present at the red wire on the passenger side and no 12v on the driver. So I dropped the fuse box and checked wiring at the drivers side. Sure enough the red wire was broken inside the boot. So tommorrow I have to run a new wire. I will report when I get them all working. What I have to say to the OP is dig into and start investigating. It is pretty simple and it is also kind of fun trying to figure it out. I wouldn't blow any money on new actuators if you like tinkering just tear them apart and clean them up. There isn't much to them. Good luck.
_________________
1990 VW Vanagon tin top weekender Carat
1998 Mercedes S420

"Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but there is always time to do it twice?"

"Back to the basics!"

insyncro · Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:04 am Post subject:

I agree with Syncrodoka and the answer to the first post is in the GW article.

I have a related question.
My 91 Syncro Westy has full functioning power locks, but on occasion the rear hatch will act the opposite of all the other locks.
Meaning if I lock the van it is open and when all the others are open it will lock.
I have not touched the wiring ever.
Anyone have experience with this?
I have not looked into it as the clips that hold the rear panel in place are NLA and they often break upon removal.

syncrodoka · Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 2:20 pm Post subject:

Lube the slider mechanism on the rear hatch lock that the actuator moves. I had mine get out of phase on me like that once and I haven't had it happen again since relubing.

insyncro · Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 3:47 pm Post subject:

Mine has the interior latch to open from inside.
Can I lube it without removing the panel???
Never tried.

D

syncrodoka · Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:09 pm Post subject:

I have never tried to lube without removing the panel. If you take off the latch mechanism you might have access- I dunno?

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

Further to my original post

Note passenger door and slider locks are stuck open and won't budge.

I've checked power at the connectors just before the actuators, I've got 12V between red and brown, red and white. Nothing between red and yellow. Both sides.

I unhooked the actuator from the from the lock mechanism and voila ....manual locks working.

So what is my next step ? Pull apart an actuator ?

tx

insyncro · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:04 pm Post subject:

insyncro · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject:

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

Local VW dealer wants $75 ( I think it was) for new actuators and then there is a wiring harness adapter that was close to $45.

insyncro · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:38 pm Post subject:

I have spares.
Pmail which ones you need.
Mine are from 90 or 91 vanagon Carats and are in excellent condition.

dylan

redcanoe · Samba Member Joined: August 13, 2007 Posts: 150

Insyncro......cross border shopping and I'm on the westcoast too. Couple of used vendors in this neighbourhood.

Nobody from this forum has confirmed, yet, if they think my symptoms are a bad actuator (or more)

Good news is the mechanical connections are undone and I've got 2 more locking doors now.

tx

syncrodoka · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:27 pm Post subject:


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