Dissecting the ignition switch electrical (wordy w/ pics)

[heimlich]

Those metal cast ones are so much better. The look is better too in my opinion. I suppose plastic became cheap in 71 when they switched over to the plastic housing.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[bluebus86]

if you rebuild the switch, consider using dielectric electric contact grease upon reassembly. It will reduce wear, make parts move easy, which can reduce breakage.

Good Luck, My Key Switch Is On For Buggin!
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[ashman40]

[A-Wild]

So after a hiatus, aka life, I’m back to trying to figure this situation out. I purchased what I thought was the correct ignition switch but has six wires as opposed to five. What am I missing?

Btw what is this HSR everyone says to buy? Sorry for my ignorance
_________________
1971 Clementine Orange VW Convertible
1971 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Bahia Red

[ashman40]

As the ignition switch "evolved" more wires were added to provide more functionality. Some of the aftermarket replacement parts use the same later model switch for their earlier model replacements. This means you get additional functionality and more wires.

Basic wires since '68:

red (30) - INPUT constant 12v source from battery
black (15) - OUTPUT ignition switched 12v; power in ON/RUN and START positions
red/black (50) - OUTPUT starter solenoid; power in START position

Additional wires since '68:

black/yellow (X) - (added in '71) OUTPUT accessory switched 12v; power in ON/RUN only (powers headlights, wipers and blower)
grey/black (SU) - OUTPUT to door switch/buzzer; ground while key is in the ignition
grey - OUTPUT 12v while key is OFF
*You should test the grey and grey/black (brown in your case?) wires to confirm their function.

_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[bnam]

Yes, the lens on the later ghia and beetle vert mirrors can be a bit fragile -- specially the repros. I've gone thru a couple on my vert. The ghia and bug vert mirrors are similar but the bug vert have longer neck I believe -- so that they can be rotated 180 deg with the top down (68-72).

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=631983
_________________
1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[Beetlebaum]

This thread was incredibly useful this afternoon, as I've been trying to get the buzzer circuitry working again on my (American) 1973 Super Beetle.

I have a later-style aftermarket ignition switch, and originally it was designed so that the key in the ignition would cause the S terminal to put out 12v. I did what Joel mentioned early in this thread and disassembled the switch, moving the plastic part from "outside" the buzzer circle contact to the inside, which left the buzzer circle contact exposed outside of the ignition switch. Now the system makes a ground like the original did.

This picture is from before I switched the plastic part and the buzzer ring.

Now the tab grounds on the outside!
_________________
1973 Super Beetle
2003 New Beetle
Post your Super here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=331999
Beetle Bums VW Club Member

[A-Wild]

[ashman40]

[A-Wild]

Yes they are marked. You mention a plug and that I don’t have. I had planned to attach the female spades directly. Do I need to find this plug? Sorry for the stupid question
_________________
1971 Clementine Orange VW Convertible
1971 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Bahia Red

[ashman40]

The pic of the plug above was just so you could work out the circuit# based on the location around the ignition switch. If your switch has the circuit#s then you can ignore the pic and the plug. That odd shaped plug is what fits onto the '72 ignition switch terminals.
I don't know if you can find the plug NEW. You might need to look at recycled parts or find a '72 Beetle in the recycle yard.


As you mentioned (and I suggested earlier in this thread) using non-insulated terminals wrapped in heat shrink should work. Here is a pic to illustrate the end product (this is a headlight switch instead of the ignition switch, but you get the idea).

You could completely cover the conductive part of the terminal. Make the heat shrink lengths a bit long and trim once they are shrunk.
The above example is not bad either. It allows a bit of exposed terminal so you can probe with a test lamp or multi meter. There isn't enough exposed that it will become an issue.
Your biggest challenge will be the smaller 1/8" wide terminals and finding the correct sized crimp on terminals.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[A-Wild]

Thanks Ash that is a huge help!
_________________
1971 Clementine Orange VW Convertible
1971 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Bahia Red

[dvancleve]

[TK-CS]

[DesignBuild]

I believe the plug you are looking for was used on the 72 through 74 1/2 Super Beetles and possibly on Standards too. If there was a part number for the plug only it might be used in newer vehicles too. With all the Beetles and other cars that used this plug connection and that are rotting away there should be a few hundred or thousand that could be salvaged. I think I found this on TheSamba. The original author's name is on the picture.

[DesignBuild]

TK-CS: your description of the EU Bug switch terminals has me stumped. What is w/o 'P'? What is the reference to P? I have a 1972 EU Super Beetle and I just had starting problems this past Sunday. When I turned the key I got no response from the starter though all the lights that normally light up when the key is turned to the ON position worked. It took some jiggling of the key and lock cylinder before the engine started. The actual engine starting is never a problem. Even after sitting for a week or more it starts with no cranking. I have an AB 1300 engine. I will be looking at the mechanical key and the ignition switch. I hope I can save it with the Hard Starting kit and with the installation of an ignition relay. The Hard Starting relay and the ignition relay will take the high current off the switch contacts and put the current on the relays.

Would like to do the same thing for the other high current switches like the headlight switch. I am surprised the Beetles didn't have a horn relay. I can't think of any American car back into the 1930s that didn't use a horn relay. Not using a relay may contribute to the anemic sounding horn.

[ashman40]

[DesignBuild]

Thanks Ashman40 for the further explanation of where to put the relays for the other high current wires coming from the ignition switch.

Many years ago I came across an article about improving headlights and reducing headlight glare, I was surprised to still find it on the internet though it appears to have been updated. The author is Daniel Stern. He has a website: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

There are loads of things on his website that include using relays for headlights, headlight switches, and other electrical improvements; lots od how to instructions. It is well work checking out.

[edjose17]

[chookhen]

Hi All,
First day today so forgive me if I am perhaps in the wrong section.
My 71 super's ignition switch decided to stay fully engaged in the switch on position resulting in continual engagement of the starter which on returning to the on position power was cut and engine stopped.
I managed to remove the barrel but switch is hard wired in.
Would a solution be to place a momentary switch between key switch and the the wire to the starter with the spade connection so key could be left in tne on position and momentary switch would activate the circuit.
I note the spade connection wire I would be breaking for the switch is not particularly large, would a high ampere switch be sufficient or should a relay be fitted, I would include a fuse in circuit.
Does all this make any sense.?
I would appreciate any criticism or ideas from members who no doubt will have more knowledge than me.
Greetings from Queensland.
i