Building a Stroker, what should I build?

[Ghia72]

So I'm new to building engines in general however I've enlisted my uncle who's built a few and been doing some research so I have some ideas.

First off:
My main concern is heat as this will be my daily driver of about 60 miles at least both ways (mostly freeway miles, I live in SoCal). I want this engine to last 100k+ and get decent gas mileage. I want more torque/hp then the 1600 dual ports provides but I don't need to leave tracks of fire behind me or anything.

I want to build a stroker, I know its more expensive then but it creates more power with less boring(so I've been told and read).

I'm thinking either stroking using the stock 85.5mm cylinders or 92mm thick walls as I read they are even thicker then the 85.5mm. maybe going with a 78mm crank 92mm thicks resulting in a 2074cc engine! I plan to throw on an additional oil cooling system to keep the heat down as well.

I know 2074 is a lot of CCs for a daily driver so if moving down to a 1745 or even a 1699 makes more sense then i'm down!

Feedback is appreciated!

THx!

[anthracitedub]

If I had the money, I would build an engine as square as possible using 85mm pistons and let it breath real good, also use all stock German sheet metal with the T-stat/flaps.

[Ghia72]

Are you talking stalk?

[rcooled]

I've built mild 2007cc motors for daily drivers with very good results. These were built using a 78mm stroker crankshaft along with 95.5mm pistons/cylinders. The 78mm crank is the longest stroke that can be used with the stock VW connecting rods (which will help keep costs down) and the 90.5 mm cylinders have the thick walls needed for durability. I add some mildly-ported D/P heads w/stock-size valves, HD springs, solid rocker shafts and swivel adjusters. For breathing, I go with dual Weber 40 IDF or Dellorto carbs, a 110 cam and 1 3/8" street headers. I run a lightened, 8-doweled flywheel, a Bosch 010 distributor and a full-flow oil filter. I also balance all rotating/reciprocating parts. This motor will idle smoothly, be very "driveable" around town and pull hard to 5500 RPM when you get on it. Gas mileage will depend on how heavy your foot is.
If you haven't already done so, check out the link for some excellent advice on building high-performance VW engines. Be sure to use good quality parts and always remember: Cheap - Fast - Reliable...choose any two.

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm
_________________
'63 Ragtop (current)
'65 Ghia coupe (totaled)
'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone)

[anthracitedub]

Square just means having a stroke that is close to the bore size. I can't remember for sure, but I think Hot Vw built a 78mm X 85mm and it was just great engine that produced good low end torque.

[vgajames]

[Ian Godfrey]

I second the 78 / 90.5. Once you start clearancing the case for counterweights, 78 stroke is no harder than 76 or 74. Stock rods with 90.5's give you a close to stock width engine. Tin fits well, and it fits in the car easily. You can go as mild or as wild on the heads carbies and cam as you can afford of feel comfortable with. Well built, it probably won't even need an extra oil cooler.
Most after market heads have valve size, porting and chambers to suit 90.5, 92 and 94 bores not the older 88's or 85.5

[anthracitedub]

Here is a link that is reliable and pretty much breaks it all down for you…

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm

[Bruce Amacker]

My 2180 with a single carb works great and almost held good oil temps, but adding a Type 4 oil cooler completed the picture and keeps oil temps fine even at 75-80MPH on a warm day. I'd suggest as many CC's as possible with thick walls, like 92x82 or 92x84. Dual carbs aren't necessary for a DD, your goal should be torque and not HP.
A well tuned big CC engine with a single carb would be a great DD and still easy to work on with a low level of complexity.
Good Luck!
_________________
'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Build threads:
'66- http://www.leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2888&sid=54d8dedfb3822f99c7f2ea430cb4e856
'65- http://leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4263

[sactojesse]

^
IMO, the complexity of trying to get a single two-barrel carburetor to work far outweighs the minimal complexity of getting a pair of DRLAs or IDFs dialed in. Unless you're willing to fabricate a heat riser, the use of single center-mount carb limits you to stock heater boxes and 1 3/8" exhaust systems with heat risers, which would also limit your exhaust valve size to stock (32 mm) without the risk of cracking your heads. (Believe me, I've done that running stock heater boxes w/ ported and polished 40 x 35.5 valve heads on a mere 1776.) Besides, using duals will allow one to take advantage of the aftermarket 1 1/2" heater box merged exhaust systems, run appropriately sized 35.5 mm exhaust valves, and your cylinder heads will thank you!

IMO, either stay w/ stock stroke and build a counterweighted 1776 w/ an Engle W110 or similar cam, ported and polished 40 x 35.5 valve heads, dual 36 DRLAs or 40 IDFs or build a 90.5 mm bore stroker, like a 2007 (90.5 x 78 ), 2017 (90.5 x 78.4), or a 2110 (90.5 x 82).
_________________
1966 Karmann-Ghia convertible

[Suicidesplit51]

Here's a link to the Hot VW milage motor project.

http://www.cbperformance.com/articles.asp

Will give you some good tips for a milage stroker, 76x90,5.

[anthracitedub]

^ Yep, thats the one….I'd love to build that long block….maybe with some different heads, just slightly a bump above what they used. Sweet little engine…pretty sure they used 85mm pistons.

[vwracerdave]

The hell with that Hot Vw's milage engine. It will be much cheaper and eaiser to build a 1776 then a bastard 76 X 85.5

If this were my challange and the fact that $3.50 gas is here to stay I would build a 1776 with ported and polished stock valve heads, Engle W-100 cam, dual 40 IDF's, and use a Bosch SVDA. That will get you 80-85 HP, 30+ MPG, and 100,000 miles if quality parts are used.

If you choose to step up to a 78X90.5 = 2007 then you will have to use the aftermarket 1 1/2" heater boxes.

[sactojesse]

[anthracitedub]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5ALAbN6Pcw

[c21darrel]

I vote for the 2007, 78X90.5, 120 cam, 40 Dells, steve tims heads and its so cal no need for a heater, j tubes.

[Ghia72]

Well i figured 92 thicks over 90.5s because the material is thicker:

.179" = 92mm thickwall
.177" = 88mm machine-in
.163" = 85.5mm
.148" = 90.5mm
.140" = 94mm
.118" = 92mm thinwall

I have family that lives in Bakersfield that I visit and last thing I want is for my Ghia to be a black spot on the side of the grapevine from burning down!!!!!!! This is why I'm trying to be as careful as possible. Do the 92 thickwalls pose a space problem in the Ghia?

[anthracitedub]

The longer the stroke, the engine grows in width.

[sactojesse]

[Ghia72]

So does a 2074cc with B pistons sound like a good choice apposed to the 2007? Seems to me that the 2074 would provide a little more torque/hp while still retaining a bit more reliability with the thickwall 92s instead of 90.5s, and close to how reliable the 1600s provides.

Thanks for all the advice!