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'71-'72 brakes
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
'70 front drum diameter - 250 mm.
'72 rear drum diameter - 252 mm.
'70 front shoe lining width - 45 mm.
'72 rear shoe lining width - 55 mm.

Not even close, dude.


Party crasher Laughing
It would have been fun trying to use fronts on the rear since they are totally different shape anyway. Square hole- round peg type thing.

Amazing what important info can be found in the service manual. Wink

At the same time it seems like some folks said that some of the late backing plates don't have the holes for the retaining pins.
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BumbleBus
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
Not even close, dude.


Laughing Cool. Thanks for the info.

Anyone wanna buy some new '70 front shoes... cheap? Wink
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BumbleBus
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
It would have been fun trying to use fronts on the rear since they are totally different shape anyway. Square hole- round peg type thing.


Yeah well necessity is the mother of all invention don't ya know. Label me dumb, but it's not like I'm the only bay owner that's tried to save a few pennies trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. That's practically a requirement in owning a bus. Wink Laughing

Thanks for all the info. Moving on...
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

after much frustration, and multiple trips to the auto store, I completed the driver's side rear done.

first I looked at the drum, not to bad, cleaned it up a little, and will reuse it.
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hard to see but the part number is still visible
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I cleaned the inside of the drum, some brake fluid got everywhere so I sprayed it, cleaned it, let it dray and towel dried them
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There is still a ton of lining left on the shoes, so they will be reused as well. On the inside of the shoe it says, "made in canada"
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I spent forever trying to get them on. I had to walk away and have a beer at one point
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Done. I put anti seize on the adj stars before install.
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The upper spring is a PITA to get on and work with. I was swearing up and down getting that thing on there
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picture before it gets lowered
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In all, I hated the job. Took all day to clean, read, figure out how to get the new shoes on. In the end, it probably only took 30 to do the whole job. But whatever, now the passenger side will go much faster.
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mattcuddy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

60vwnewengland wrote:

Done. I put anti seize on the adj stars before install.
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Bend those adjuster nut springs into place!
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattcuddy wrote:
60vwnewengland wrote:

Done. I put anti seize on the adj stars before install.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Bend those adjuster nut springs into place!


don't worry I did
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

question! I'm going to get New KYB GR-2's. Do I need the mounting kit for the front as well? I know I needed them for the rear, but do I need the mounting kit for the front? I can't remember.
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Thanks!
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well.......I did a little more work today. I worked on my adj beam a little
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I took the passenger side torsion arms out, and cleaned up the spindle a little

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New ball joints from Wolfgang International. $200 with core exchange. Not bad price for me,

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And I installed the new KYB GR-2's in the rear!

Can't wait to see what the ride will be like.
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canes5time
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

60vwnewengland wrote:
well.......I did a little more work today. I worked on my adj beam a little
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Are you working on this inside your house?
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

canes5time wrote:
60vwnewengland wrote:
well.......I did a little more work today. I worked on my adj beam a little
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Are you working on this inside your house?


yes I am. The girlfriend isn't too happy Twisted Evil
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got some fresh disc brakes from a local shop. They had to blow the box off with the air gun to get all the dust off of them. On the side of the box in large letters it said, "Made in Germany"

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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did a little more work today. I took Rady's advice and got some stainless steel line from aircooled.net. Should have nice results when done. Should have the job done on friday
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question. I'm installing new pads in the front calipers. I am retracting the pistons in the calipers. Now the piston that is on the same side as the brake line, does that one retract? I got the otehr piston on the other side to compress, but does the piston on the side with the brake line compress as well?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it does (or should).
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ToolBox
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

60vwnewengland wrote:
Quick question. I'm installing new pads in the front calipers. I am retracting the pistons in the calipers. Now the piston that is on the same side as the brake line, does that one retract? I got the otehr piston on the other side to compress, but does the piston on the side with the brake line compress as well?


If it is not seized this is the tool that will retract both pistons at the same tme.

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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ToolBox wrote:
60vwnewengland wrote:
Quick question. I'm installing new pads in the front calipers. I am retracting the pistons in the calipers. Now the piston that is on the same side as the brake line, does that one retract? I got the otehr piston on the other side to compress, but does the piston on the side with the brake line compress as well?


If it is not seized this is the tool that will retract both pistons at the same tme.

Ya I figured out that I could just use the old pad, and a c-clamp to compress the piston.

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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

finish up a bit today
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New adj beam. Lowered 3 or 4 inches
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worked on it all day. Started with installing new pad in the calipers, and ended with the test drive.

Question. It feels like the brake booster isn't boosting. To compare, it feels like i'm driving my brother's split window. I have to really put some pressure on the brake pedal. The booster isn't helping in the braking process. Does that sound right?

We've adj. the rear a few times. Changed the vacuum lines up front, and have checked them for vacuum. we can feel air coming from the engine coming out of the hose. The master cylinder seems fine, and the booster worked when we swapped it out. What could be the problem?
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71whitewesty
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked your one way valve near the manifold on the brake booster line? Air should only go one way and it needs to be orientated the proper way.
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

71whitewesty wrote:
Have you checked your one way valve near the manifold on the brake booster line? Air should only go one way and it needs to be orientated the proper way.


yes. I'm pretty sure that the check valve is working properly, there is air coming out of the hose. A buddy was under there as I rev'd the engine and he put is thumb on the vacuum line, and he said it was working.

Booster...
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