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Subaru Exhaust headers - Recommendations?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farfrumwork wrote:
insyncro wrote:
ALIKA T3 wrote:
DAMN,I powder coated all the parts already.

Can I use the 2WD Smallcar mounts on a syncro mustache bar? That should be fine right? I mean there's nothing I can think about that would be different than the 2WD vw WBX configuration.....


You will loose ground clearance with that combo.


^^^I'm finding this out myself with my syncro cnoversion.
I have the 2wd Smallcar engine mounts (have been in use for 5yrs), but need the syncro version. SC says the 4wd engine mount has the rubber mount surface 1" lower to match the syncro mustache.

I also wanted to use my 2wd mustache (it's cleaner), but it looks like I should use all the syncro parts (engine mount and mustache) to make it work right.

more used parts to sell later....


Yes, Syncro specific parts must be used to allow for proper flanges angles.
I have debugged (2) separate multi conversion vans that the owners found out after some miles, that you need the appropriate parts for them to drive without vibration and not destroy expensive parts.

Welcome to the world of Syncro.

Lifting with proper parts will offset any losses in ride height.
Wheel tire choice has a large part to do with clearance as well.
These are all connected and will need planning and budgeting to achieve the desired outcome.
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joetiger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I noticed a bit of a popping sound from my exhaust last month, and it looks like my Kennedy header has bitten the dust. I've got seam cracks in both of the welds at the turn below the heads. 7 1/2 years and 50k miles of hard service finally took its toll.

I could probably get it welded up, but...

In somewhat related news, my freaking tailpipe is GONE. Broken off at the base of the muffler (Ernst) so repair looks unlikely. I have no clue as to how or when it happened. It's certainly rusty around the outlet, but it doesn't seem so bad that the tailpipe would FALL off. I can't think of anything I've done recently that would have caused it. Haven't gone off of any sweet jumps or heard any massive backfires.

Oh--the cat is also rattling like crazy. Talk about a total system meltdown.

I'll get some pics up later for the sake of posterity when I get a chance, but basically my entire exhaust system appears to be trashed so I might as well replace it all. Back when I installed all of that stuff, I thought it would be the last thing to fail.

Damned thing sounds like a Volkswagen right now. Very Happy

Time to drop some cash. Sad
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Team WorldTour
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

<Problem Solved>
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Franklinstower
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew my Gen 1 SC header was getting close to needing replacement, didn't know it was this bad though:

This is at the collector on the 2/4 side (that's the 1/2 side for you VW guys)

The crack is close to 180 degrees. (or 360 if your Karl Malone!)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


now what? Weld it? Try Stans? Try the new SC Stainless? $5 bills is hard to swallow. Especially when you see all those nice Subaru headers for less than 1/2 that.

Paul
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Farfrumwork
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^yeah, but any exhaust manifold for a subaru that cost 1/2 of a conversion header won't be much of a header either (good ones costs quite bit more)


The key for cost comparisons in this case is volume... LOTS of subarus running around compared to converted vanagons.


My SC gen1 has some cracks, but they certainly aren't as open as your picture shows. I have a hole in my muffler now that is louder...
I will need some header work/replacement in the near-ish future.
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Farfrumwork
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Farfrumwork wrote:
insyncro wrote:


You will loose ground clearance with that combo.


^^^I'm finding this out myself with my syncro cnoversion.
I have the 2wd Smallcar engine mounts (have been in use for 5yrs), but need the syncro version. SC says the 4wd engine mount has the rubber mount surface 1" lower to match the syncro mustache.

I also wanted to use my 2wd mustache (it's cleaner), but it looks like I should use all the syncro parts (engine mount and mustache) to make it work right.

more used parts to sell later....


Yes, Syncro specific parts must be used to allow for proper flanges angles.
I have debugged (2) separate multi conversion vans that the owners found out after some miles, that you need the appropriate parts for them to drive without vibration and not destroy expensive parts.

Welcome to the world of Syncro.

Lifting with proper parts will offset any losses in ride height.
Wheel tire choice has a large part to do with clearance as well.
These are all connected and will need planning and budgeting to achieve the desired outcome.



I did end up using all of the syncro specific parts from my donor, and replacing every bushing and bearing (and ball joints, and axles, and .org springs/ OME shocks, and, and, and). She drives SUPER smooth and vibration free. I bet it drives better than a brand new syncro ever did!!

Looks tits too Very Happy
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'07 Legacy spec.B, road tuned stgII
'17 4x4 Sprinter, stone grey, SMB pop-top, on 33"s

"Blood stains, speed kills - Fast cars, cheap thrills - Rich girls, fine wine - I've lost my sense, I've lost control, I've lost my mind"
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joetiger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the time I finally got around to buying a header, my old one was broken completely. Because I don't have a spare car right now and really need my Vanagon, I went with what I know and ordered another Kennedy, now in Stainless and only $300.

I called them Thursday afternoon and it was here today.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I had grand plans to try something differrent, but I just didn't have time.

Easy installation, everything lined up nicely and bolted right up. I did notice that the wires on my Oxygen sensor were a bit twisted up and exposed, so I cleaned them up as best I could and made sure the insulation was down over everything.

I don't know what I did, but the van runs like a bat out of hell (relatively.) I mean it has never accelerated like this, even when I first did the conversion. The puzzling hesitation that I had around 2200 RPM is gone.

Just a theory, but it is possible that my OXS hasn't been functioning correctly for a really long time? Where the tail pipe broke off of my muffler, there's a ton of black soot around that end pipe area of the muffler. Could I have been running rich this whole time?

I don't know. What I do know is that I don't have to ride my bike eight miles to work in freezing rain tomorrow morning, and that makes me happy.
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'86 NAHT Vanagon GL Syncro/ supercharged ABA 2.0 "Pigpen"
'04 GTI 1.8T
'04 Golf R32

"get metaphysical with it. if it's simply a means to get to and from places, it will let you down. if it becomes your zen, it can't fail you." -dabaron

"Still, it's good to be afield."--VWagabond

Available Now! Vanagon to Louisiana--A Two-Lane Reckoning Through Past and Present

www.josephtrussell.com
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joetiger wrote:
Just a theory, but it is possible that my OXS hasn't been functioning correctly for a really long time? Where the tail pipe broke off of my muffler, there's a ton of black soot around that end pipe area of the muffler. Could I have been running rich this whole time?

Exhaust leaks upstream of the OXS will make it read incorrectly and the ECU will try to correct for the false readings. Your exhaust could have been leaking for some time and the OXS has been passing on the wonky information that it has been getting.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoa.....stainless Exclamation
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boroko
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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I must be missing something. After reading 12 pages and getting all excited about RMW's 4-1 and Vanaru's pretty systems, I can't find them on their respective sites.

I was really curious how the 4-1 worked out for torque. Were these just too challenging to continue making?
(of course, I could just call them, but this puts the info out there for all who are still looking).

Bo
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OhChit
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to need a New SS Exhaust Header soon for my Subaru Conversion.
The current one is an earlier Small Car mfg. Cracks keep showing. Kind of don't want to go with another S.C. after spending good money once already on junk that had to be welded many times, just not comfy with there product. They got me once and will offer no credit on there bad product in exchange for a new one.

So was wondering has anyone done a price point comparison. Meaning whats out there and at what price?

Basically who makes what that fits the stock exhaust configuration Question
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OhChit wrote:
I'm going to need a New SS Exhaust Header soon for my Subaru Conversion.
The current one is an earlier Small Car mfg. Cracks keep showing. Kind of don't want to go with another S.C. after spending good money once already on junk that had to be welded many times, just not comfy with there product. They got me once and will offer no credit on there bad product in exchange for a new one.

So was wondering has anyone done a price point comparison. Meaning whats out there and at what price?

Basically who makes what that fits the stock exhaust configuration Question


I was in the same boat, hated to spend more $$ on the exhaust that I though would last forever and only made it 4 years.

But the rest of the exhaust was still like new and I don't think anyone else header will bolt up to the J pipe and muffler.

I got another one from SC and am very happy, it almost seems over built. It seems to weight almost twice as the old and way better quality.


Jeff
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OhChit wrote:
I'm going to need a New SS Exhaust Header soon for my Subaru Conversion.
The current one is an earlier Small Car mfg. Cracks keep showing. Kind of don't want to go with another S.C. after spending good money once already on junk that had to be welded many times, just not comfy with there product. They got me once and will offer no credit on there bad product in exchange for a new one.

So was wondering has anyone done a price point comparison. Meaning whats out there and at what price?

Basically who makes what that fits the stock exhaust configuration Question


I just installed my new Stan's Headers header. It went on really easily, and I was able to mate it to the Small Car SS J-pipe with a little effort. A muffler shop would have simply swaged the end of the pipe in two minutes but...

Looks good, and it sounds good too! Wink
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new SC headers are vastly improved over the Gen 2 stock they had.
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GreggK
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive been using Stans 2pc header for about 4 years now free. Ive been using a mastercraft/Burley oil pan and mount. I also had to modify my SC j-pipe to mate with the ball and socket type joint at the header. He has pictures on his site. Google stans headers.
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant to say crack free. Also... after 4 years of Colorado winters the hearder showed no rust. I believe I chose the chrome finish. I have recently had it jet-hot coated but cant comment on that yet. Im still working on my van and is off the road. There are pictures on his site. Google stans headers. Stan also replicated my modified SC j-pipe. His work is top notch. Give him a call if your interested in his product. He shead some light on his experience with vanagon/Subaru headers that made me even more comfortable with my choice.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GreggK wrote:
Ive been using Stans 2pc header for about 4 years now free.


Damn! He made me pay for mine...
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GreggK wrote:
I meant to say crack free. Also... after 4 years of Colorado winters the header showed no rust. I believe I chose the chrome finish. I have recently had it jet-hot coated but cant comment on that yet. Im still working on my van and is off the road.

There are pictures on his site. Google Stan's Headers. Stan also replicated my modified SC j-pipe. His work is top notch.

Give him a call if you're interested in his products. He shed some light on his experience with Vanagon/Subaru headers that made me even more comfortable with my choice.


Mine are chrome-plated, too.

And when I called, Stan picked up the phone himself and answered my questions about fit, etc. before handing me off to Mike for the sale.

And this during their 50th Anniversary of operation! Wink Good people.

I showed it to Dave, Chris and Dustin at Daryl's Memorial and they thought it might be a little too deep to fit under a Syncro skid plate, but I bet the guys at Stan's would make a lower-profile set if requested.
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Whoa.....stainless Exclamation


Whoa! Complete FAIL! on drivers side exhaust merge. I'll bet there is 10-15HP easily found in doing a proper 2-1 collector and a properly sized 2-1 transition of both cylinder banks over the crappy Kennedy header design. Too bad that is the only CARB approved exhaust.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:55 pm    Post subject: Subaru conversion header failures Reply with quote

It might be interesting to note that motorcycle and aircraft use multiple pipe sections in their stainless steel exhausts held in place by springs, these springs allow the exhaust system to move and flex. This movement helps eliminates cracking at welded joints and long stress sections of pipe. The sectioned exhaust systems are also a whizz to remove and install. I'm converting 1990 2WD to 3.3L Subaru and plan on making my own exhaust, which will be similar to a racing motorcycle set up in construction. Stainless steel tubing must also have the inside diameter purged with inert gas for proper welding. Will let you know. I own 4 motorcycles/ 2 for racing, 2 vanagons, 3 type1's
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