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gravity bleed
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:08 pm    Post subject: gravity bleed Reply with quote

sometimes, you really can teach an old dog new tricks. So teach me

I've always had another person around to bleen brakes. Dad, brother, Girl Friend, friends, frienamies, etc. Well, now I need to re-do the brakes in my oval, and I've been putting it off for lack of help in my new city

So I see the vacume bleeders, and bleeder valves with check valves in them. And then I see everyone including hot rod guys, saying just gravity bleed them


Is it really as simple as doing all my brakes, adjusting them, cracking open a bleeder, and go hit the bars for a couple hours? I can do that!

Seriously, I need to change front wheel cylinders and shoes all the way around. maybe the rear wheel cylinders too. all the lines are new. What order do I need to do them in?
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VWESCH
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Generally you start with the cyl farthest from the master. RR, LR, RF then LF. If all the lines are clear{not rusty or swollen shut} then gravity works pretty well. Sorry, but you will not have time to go to the bar. Fill the resevoir and leave the cap off. Attach a piece of clear vinyl hose to the bleeder and open it up. Usually only takes a few minutes for each wheel. Just watch the tube for air bubbles. When the bubbles stop close the screw. Good luck
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GB2S
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're doing the rear, jack up the front. and vise versa.

Geoff
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWESCH wrote:
Generally you start with the cyl farthest from the master.
It doesn't matter where you start. The MC doesn't know how far away the remote components are.

When you gravity bleed, open them all at once. Grab your beer and watch the game. Check the reservoir often, you don't want it to go dry.
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet, thanks guys
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