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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm all ready to go and was going to start this today. I am wondering, is it ok to leave the bolts in the top and paint over them? I figured that it would be a real PITA to take them out and get them back in correctly. The bolts aren't rusted at all, so I was thinking of just leaving them in. I will be taking the luggage rack off.
Thoughts?
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had few done by painting over the bolts all with good results.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replace them with stainless steel hardware.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought of stainless, but I thought of it too late in the game. I don't think Home depot would carry the right ones, eh?
I may just end up painting over.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=955449

I have used all of Roger's kits.
A+.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went ahead and just painted over for now. I'd like to get stainless steel in the future, but if I did I wouldn't paint over them anyway, so I can always add later without affecting paint. Unfortunately, Roger says he's out of the oversized screws and doesn't think he'll be getting any more. That's what the ad says anyway.

I applied a primer coat and it looks pretty bad. I guess it's all getting sanded down a bit tomorrow and painted over anyway, but I'm wondering if it will look that bad when applying the top coat?
I tested out the roll and top method, but the paint seemed to be drying too much by the time I tipped it, which was only a minute or so. It would make lines and I figured out it looked much better if I just rolled it all. I'm guessing the primer doesn't need to be tipped, but I'm hoping that the top paint doesn't react the same way.

Any tips to make sure I get a smooth finish? I plan on putting on another coat first thing in the morning, and a final coat at night, if all goes well.

Edit:
Doh! I didn't get any of the 333 solvent to keep the top coat from drying too fast. Is that necessary? Tomorrow's gonna be hot. I do have some Penetrol and Mineral Spirits, which I heard could be used for a flow solvent.
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edgood1
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the same interlux products on my syncro project. It came out fantastic. My primer looked nice, but it was over a white top with a lot of prepwork put into it.

I used all stainless steel hardware from Go Westy...which was really nice.

On my next one, my multivan, which will happen very soon I'm going to paint over the existing bolts... the top came from the factory in maroon and they painted over all the bolts (unless it was repainted, which i doubt). Also I think it may help to seal the water out... a few of the bolts near the skylight dripple in heavy rain. Plus I'm changing from maroon to white.

I have no regrets about the GW stainless hardware, but I was going "all out" on that bus... My multivan is more of a driver.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got a ride to home depot and was able to grab some thinner. I bought a few different kinds of thinner, but am not sure which kind to use. I can't get the interlux brand stuff, which is why I got a few different kinds...also since the van is covered in plastic and I can't drive it to home depot. Short post, because I'm on my phone, but I'd appreciate any advice.
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edgood1
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how are you applying the paint?

If your brushing or rolling it you don't need to thin it.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm trying to use the roll and tip method, so both rolling and brushing. It's hot though, so it dries quickly. Also, the primer was kind of thick to go on, and there are lots of lines from the rolling. I was wondering if the top coat would be the same consistency and have the problems. That's why I thought I may need thinner.
Sorry for the short post, I'm on my phone!
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What primer did you use?

It is hard to comment without seeing the problems.. but I'd not panic.

The finish paint has very good leveling qualities and can cover many sins..


I'd NOT thin the paint with anything other than the recommended thinners. And even then, if the paint is drying too fast, I'd wait for better temp conditions. IIRC, the can says "do not thin".. Thinners are used primarily for spraying the product. And finding the right blend takes patience.. trial and error.

But it should not be that hard.

Paint early in the morning, before the heat builds.
Paint a small test patch to give you an idea how much working time you have.
Work quickly and deliberately... 1 or 2 ft square patches, no bigger if paint is, indeed, drying quickly..
Tip across the patches seams by an inch or so to hide those "seams".

STOP tipping if the paint "pulls" (you get little strings or the paint won't lay back back down level after a tip.)


How hot is your mid-day heat.. say noonish?
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Last edited by j_dirge on Mon May 30, 2011 5:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a lot for the tips. I'm always really anxious when it comes to this stuff and I have no idea what I'm doing.
It's between 90-95 degrees during the day. The primer I used was the Interlux Pre-kote.

I put on a coat of the top color this morning. It took me a while to get used to the roll and tip method, but I got pretty good at it. Small patches, like you said. The luggage rack looks horrible, but that was my test area pretty much. I definitely didn't cover it very much, and you can still see some of the primer through it. I should have put a thicker coat on. I was too scared of drips and the like at first.
I really wish I could do another coat today so that I can have it finished by tomorrow for work(daily driver), and so I won't have to tape it all off again, but it says up to 12hrs between coats :/
Here are a few pictures:

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: pop top painting Reply with quote

why wouldnt you just respray the gel coat and then paint if fibers are showing? how did you get the colors for the pop top.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know anything about gel coats, but then again I know nothing about paint either. Most of the pop top restoration threads that I read had to do with painting the top. The color isn't the exact original color. I think this gray will be slightly lighter than my old gray.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will it screw up the paint process if I wait until next weekend to do the next coat of paint? I can't do another coat today because of dry time. Tomorrow I've got work, and Wednesday I may be able to do it if I have to. It may rain Wednesday PM, so who knows.
I just didn't know if waiting 5 days for the next coat is a no-no.
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blackglasspirate
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I finished putting the second and final coat on. It looks pretty good. There are a few spots there I should have sanded the primer down more, because you can see some lines, but I'm not too worried about it. Either way, it looks 1000 times better than before.
I thought it was interesting that in the pop top painting article on vanagonauts( http://www.vanagonauts.com/Roof---Maintainence,-Painting135.htm ) the guy used two quarts of top coat. I only used 1! The first coat might have been a little thin, but I didn't skimp on the final coat.

Here are some pictures of how it looks now. Now I need to search for the easiest way to line up the new decals. I'll post more of the completely finished product once I get the decals and new rubber seals on it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks nice. It would be cool to see a before and after picture if you have one.

Are there some splotchy areas or is that weird light/shade?

Kevin
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's just the sun/shade. I'll try to get some good pictures tomorrow. I finished putting the new pop top seals and Westfalia decals on this evening. I think it's finally ready to go. It was dusk by the time I finished, so I didn't get to take photos.
I'll update tomorrow.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately, I don't have too many before/after pictures. I thought I did, but looking through my phone, I don't see many from before. This is all I've got. The after shots I tried to take from the same angles as the before shots. Unfortunately, my phone doesn't have the best camera on it.

Before:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



After:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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It's shiny!!!!
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, that looks really nice. Any hot tips for those of us that want to tackle this project?

Would you recommend using the primer?
Is one quart of paint enough for two coats?

Thanks,

Kevin
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