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dubbified
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've decided Interlux is the best method after reviewing the many posts out there on this stuff.

Holds its luster, you can buff/wax it..

I have a West Marine between work and home.. so this works out..

All the pictures I've seen to date of the process indicate Interlux has a good lifespan, goes on easy..

Any downsides to using Interlux other than the few options for colors?
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dubbified wrote:
I've decided Interlux is the best method after reviewing the many posts out there on this stuff.

Holds its luster, you can buff/wax it..

I have a West Marine between work and home.. so this works out..

All the pictures I've seen to date of the process indicate Interlux has a good lifespan, goes on easy..

Any downsides to using Interlux other than the few options for colors?



X2 I have heard nothing but great things about this product.

I however, do recommend using a primer. I only say this because of adhesion. Paints are generally developed to adhere specifically to corresponding primers. Now, I have very little experience with fiberglass as opposed to metals (aluminum and steel) thus I may be in the wrong here. An un-primered surface will look great and my perform great for a period of time, yet may not have the longevity of a primered and painted surface.

Either way this product looks great and seems to level out nicely. My "budget paint" project will shell the few extra dollars on this to ensure a long lasting trouble free top.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not only the primer that contributes to the adhesion & logevity of the top coat, it's the surface prep--lots of sanding, before, & after the primer that's going to make it stick and hang onto the fiberglass almost permanento.

Don't get sucked into the illusion that your going to be able to buff & wax the finished product--

Let me say this;

If you roll & brush it on, it'll be as textured as the original top, which is not condusive to buffing & waxing.

This is the easiest path which most folks take --it requires no compressor or paint gun.

If you decide your going to mask, & spray the Interlux or Petit Marine Urethane Deck top coat--then buff away & wax as needed.

Don't buff to much as you'll eventually cut through the protective skin of the paint leaving it naked to the UV rays of the sun--and it will eventually fade back to where your at right now.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:41 am; edited 2 times in total
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specialev
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd never painted fiberglass at the point when I painted my pop top. On the advice of the shop where I bought all my supplies at I didn't prime the FG. I did sand the top smooth before I sprayed so the surface fully activated by the time I sprayed color and clear.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

specialev wrote:
...I did sand the top smooth before I sprayed...


Smooth? All the texture is gone? Got a pic? I don't think I have ever seen one like this.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Summers420us wrote:
specialev wrote:
...I did sand the top smooth before I sprayed...


Smooth? All the texture is gone? Got a pic? I don't think I have ever seen one like this.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516367&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the interlux primer and white gloss paint. I rollered it on. Took about 8-10 hrs total time but over the course of a week. I did the luggage rack first then the main section. That white is a little whiter than the 91 vanagon white, but a pretty close match. I got away with 1qt each of primer and paint (single coat)

One thing to ask is what type of roller works best. I tried a fine finish foam roller and it introduced a lot of air into the paint. I tried a normal cheap wall roller and it started to leave more of the hairs in the paint the longer I used it. So I would recommend find out what type of roller works best for this paint. The roller left a little bit of an orange peel effect so it looks very much like the original finish.

Sanding with an orbital sander worked great, very fast and did a nice job and was able to get into almost all the contours. I didn't go crazy with it. I wasn't going for perfection. I sanded it, used denatured alcohol to clean it, then primed it, and a couple days later painted it. I had to paint it outside in the elements so little bits floating in the air got onto the paint, but not too noticable. Could probably lightly sand them out if I wanted. The tops looks better than the one on my other van that hasn't been redone and no one would ever think that looks bad, so I am satisfied. I think people go a little nuts with this job, but if you take pride in it, it's all good.

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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, interesting read!

My 86 Vanagon's pop top isn't horrible, the gel coat seems good but the finish has taken on a chalky faded look.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I plan on repainting it rather than just brightening up the faded Gelcoat that must be redone periodically.
It needs new seals, a new sky light and new canvas as well.

Though I live in a water oriented area, many lakes, many boats, there are only small Mom and Pop marine stores scattered about that specialize in repair services and stock almost nothing in the way of paints.

I stopped by my local Interlux dealer who really didn't that know he was! Flipped through a catalog and found the page of chintzy information and color chips. I asked if he had a color chart, he tore the page out and handed it to me! Ahhhhh NO!

I contacted Interlux directly and they sent me a proper color chart. They are only a few counties over here in NJ so it came quickly. The colors are so much more accurately portrayed on a proper paint chip!

I am off to the Shore (NJ term for Oceanfront towns) tomorrow to visit family and plan on stopping by the West Marine franchise down there. I'm looking at the Brightside line and hope they have some inventory.

I'm on the fence about using a primer, I'm old school and generally believe in primer but with a decent Gelcoat I'm not sure that I need to? Tell me I'm crazy not to use primer or to use primer!

While there I plan on looking at Stainless Footman Loops or a similar Stainless Eye Straps to replace the eight rusty loops on the luggage top now. I've got an old one off and will take it with me to figure proper size.

Thanks for all the discussion and guidance in here!

Dave
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a decent base for the paint?

Clean, sand, clean, & paint.

Done.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
Have a decent base for the paint?

Clean, sand, clean, & paint.

Done.


Terry, Thanks!

I've been leaning this direction, I've no serious erosion of the clear coat.....yet.
Your opinions I've come to respect over time! I appreciate you chiming in.

Dave
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now....... What color to paint the top?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


When I lift the camper top the overlap on the luggage rack clearly reveals the original unfaded color which is very close to Bristol Beige 4207.

I wonder if going with a whiter top would be pleasing?
Maybe Hatteras Off-White 4218? This is about the color the top has faded to.....

Maybe Whiter with Off-White 4381?

Decisions Decisions......

On line....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Photo of my brochure, a MUCH MORE ACCURATE COLOR REPRESENTATION......
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It is amazing how different the colors are online vs the manufacturers paint chart are!

Dave
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fiberglass is good and still all closed up ( there shouldn't be any clearcoat on the tho--it's the first portion of laying the top up--the gelcoat that you going to be painting over )
I'd just claen it with Dupont fast drying enamel reducer, sand it all down with 180, hit it again with the enamel reducer, and let the paint fly---or roll & brush if you'd like.

I'd keep the paint as close to the gold as possible--white will show stains from trees, bugs faster than a darker color.
That Sundown color on the second page looks closer to the gold, and not as white as the other.
What was the original color--???


Go to the Awlgrip web page.
They have a much better selection of colors--and looks like a a color closer tot he gold on the bottom.

Awlgrip is the king of marine refinishing products--and is as good if not better than Petit, or Interlux--been around much longer anyway--
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, West Marine had my chosen paint color in stock so I picked up 2 qts. I also need to seal a few Hayward fiberglass DE filter units that are shedding "hair" so I will practice on them first and confirm the color choice.

Here is a shot of the unfaded original top color......
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I was at West Marine I made a point of looking for new Stainless Steel Footman Loops. Mine are horribly rusty and a few were missing.

They hadn't any in the size I needed but they did have Stainless Steel Strap Loops which are larger and would allow one to use rope instead of only thin webbing straps.
They were only $3 each so I picked them up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Here is the receipt with the loop part numbers on it if anyone wants to order them online......
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Dave
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't realize how badly yours needs to be painted until you see some freshly painted ones! Wow, do they look great everyone!

Anyone know what colour looks best w/ Dove Blue?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I don't think I like any of those choices, white would work, but I prefer monochromatic!



djkeev wrote:
Now....... What color to paint the top?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Decisions Decisions......

Dave



So, you went w/ the Bristol Beige? I like the more monochromatic look, though can never go wrong w/ white...


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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I mentioned Awlgrip has a much bigger color selection to match what your looking for.

Take a look;

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If this sample is too small go over to Awlgrip Top Coat--you'll see more tints of blue than you'll need.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
While I was at West Marine I made a point of looking for new Stainless Steel Footman Loops. Mine are horribly rusty and a few were missing.

They hadn't any in the size I needed but they did have Stainless Steel Strap Loops which are larger and would allow one to use rope instead of only thin webbing straps.
They were only $3 each so I picked them up.

Dave


I've used them (or very, very close, from West Marine too) for a while, I like them better than the stock loops for the reason you mentioned. I used 1/4-20 ss nuts and bolts, plus washer on backside.
Here is one on my luggage rack (btw, painted with brightsides 4359 white)


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


alistair
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too funny!
I was just online checking AwlGrip colors online figuring I'd have them send me a Color chip......

And I noticed.....

AkzoNobel!

Same parent company as Interlux.......hmmm same address in Union NJ as well!

I'll still get a chip but I suspect that it's the same product.
EDIT: Color chips on their way, will probably be here tomorrow.

Why Beige?
Well........ For one, the advice against White and being so dirty,
Holding up the whites against the Gold colored Van, just didn't appeal
I'm not a fan of monochromatic colors. I never liked painted bumpers when they appeared in the 70's/80's and still not a Fan of the Mono look even today......

And the major reason......

The Wife says the Beige would look best! Who's to argue with that? Laughing

Alastair, I had seen your earlier post about that loop which had opened me up to idea of something other than the stock Foot Mans loop........thanks!

Dave
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen people asking about painting the hardware bolt heads.
Here is a photo of what I believe are original bolts on my 86.
They are about the only ones NOT rusty!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My top was still in good condition too with just the faded gell coat. No fiberglass showing. I had a shop paint it for me to color match the body. I don't think you necessarily need marine paint. Auto paint would work fine as well. I removed all the seals, took the front off and all the bolts, cleaned it really well with a scotch bright pad and took it in. I'm sure they also did a wipe down with something. They shot a base coat/clear coat and it looks great. 6 years later and it still looks good as new. No peeling or fading of any kind. Just wanted to let you know you have options besides stock marine paint.
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