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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
Both the 1800 type 4 and the EA81 (Subaru 1.8L OHV single port) had a tendency to blow smoke when I goose the accelerator or put it down in any more than a very gradual manner. It is far more noticeable on the EA81. The smoke kind of peters out after about 10 seconds or so. I'm guessing it's the accelerator pump has a bit too much squirt. Do I scale it down by knocking out the pump lever pin and putting it in the hole which provides less movement (top one? I'd know which way if I had it in front of me). I've heard using a different pump jet too, but I can't understand how that would reduce the charge, rather than just prolong it.

If the smoke is black it's worth a try, but some pumps require moving the pin the opposite direction from what you describe to reduce the shot, as in moving the pin so it's already part way through it's stroke at rest so the end result is less.
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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
RatCamper wrote:
Both the 1800 type 4 and the EA81 (Subaru 1.8L OHV single port) had a tendency to blow smoke when I goose the accelerator or put it down in any more than a very gradual manner. It is far more noticeable on the EA81. The smoke kind of peters out after about 10 seconds or so. I'm guessing it's the accelerator pump has a bit too much squirt. Do I scale it down by knocking out the pump lever pin and putting it in the hole which provides less movement (top one? I'd know which way if I had it in front of me). I've heard using a different pump jet too, but I can't understand how that would reduce the charge, rather than just prolong it.

If the smoke is black it's worth a try, but some pumps require moving the pin the opposite direction from what you describe to reduce the shot, as in moving the pin so it's already part way through it's stroke at rest so the end result is less.


I'll have to take a good hard look at that. If I recall correctly when the pump lever is in its quiescent state, the holes on the casting line up with the holes on the lever. Well, if I'm unsure, there are only 3 holes anyway, and the pin is in the middle. Not many combinations Wink
I just wasn't sure if it was the correct approach for reducing the charge amount of the pump.
Yes the smoke is black-ish. It's not white smoke anyway.
I've never pulled that pin. Does it push out sort of like the one for the float?
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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A stupid question to others, but I've never had to deal with them so I don't know.
Do 1600 SP motors have one or two exhaust ports per head?
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
A stupid question to others, but I've never had to deal with them so I don't know.
Do 1600 SP motors have one or two exhaust ports per head?

2 exhaust ports.
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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
RatCamper wrote:
A stupid question to others, but I've never had to deal with them so I don't know.
Do 1600 SP motors have one or two exhaust ports per head?

2 exhaust ports.


Thought so. Bummer. There goes a fun idea for a bit of heat OE style.
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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a stupid question which I answered myself. Thought some people might get a kick out of it.

I wanted to know why one of the nuts on the transmission hanger was so far back towards the engine and the self guiding bolt was barely sticking through. For ages I tried to figure this out as it bothered me greatly.

Yesterday I grabbed the nut with a couple of fingers and turned it. For some unknown reason there was a big nut adhered to the back of the captive nut by crud strong enough for the bolt to screw in without knocking it out. Why it was there I'll never know. I've had the transmission and engine out heaps of times and never noticed this. Amazing.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RatCamper wrote:
This is a stupid question which I answered myself. Thought some people might get a kick out of it.

I wanted to know why one of the nuts on the transmission hanger was so far back towards the engine and the self guiding bolt was barely sticking through. For ages I tried to figure this out as it bothered me greatly.

Yesterday I grabbed the nut with a couple of fingers and turned it. For some unknown reason there was a big nut adhered to the back of the captive nut by crud strong enough for the bolt to screw in without knocking it out. Why it was there I'll never know. I've had the transmission and engine out heaps of times and never noticed this. Amazing.


perhaps a ground strap was meant to be there
tp
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Powell wrote:
RatCamper wrote:
This is a stupid question which I answered myself. Thought some people might get a kick out of it.

I wanted to know why one of the nuts on the transmission hanger was so far back towards the engine and the self guiding bolt was barely sticking through. For ages I tried to figure this out as it bothered me greatly.

Yesterday I grabbed the nut with a couple of fingers and turned it. For some unknown reason there was a big nut adhered to the back of the captive nut by crud strong enough for the bolt to screw in without knocking it out. Why it was there I'll never know. I've had the transmission and engine out heaps of times and never noticed this. Amazing.


perhaps a ground strap was meant to be there
tp


Doubt it. There was never one there before, and if a strap were put between the captive nut and the nut I found on there, there wouldn't be enough thread to engage properly. if it weren't physically impossible I'd like to believe that I managed to screw a starter nut on in the wrong place.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this an oil temp sender? I found a VDO oil temp gauge in my 70s parts bus and today I removed this thing below that was screwed in just behind the dizzy on a type 1. I can't seem to find any photos/be able to identify this particular unit though. They all look brass to me. Embarassed If it is an oil temp sender should I do the tap the taco plate on my type 4 method? I've read that's not a hard procedure if you're careful. Would be nice to have a temp gauge of some kind for averaging this summer since I don't really know my engine's history well. Thanks! Very Happy

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RatCamper
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a really stupid question because it's not applicable, but I just want some feedback.

My subaru engine is smokey. It got worse recently while I was playing with the progressive carb, although the idle is still perfectly tunable. Vacuum is really good and there is no signs of a valve problem.

Compression on all 4 cylinders is high, one bank being slightly lower than the other by roughly 10psi. The lower bank appears to have had the head replaced at some point.

The untouched bank appears to be generating the smoke. Oily plugs being the best indicator. At least I'm pretty sure it's oil. the bad smoke started pretty suddenly. One plug is oilier than the other.

Story time is over. What I want to know is an opinion on probability.
Is it more likely that the stem seals have given up (prob. ~30 years old) or somehow the oil control rings failed on two cylinders on the same side while the compression rings are still doing their job.

I will also add, that while I believe it may be technically possible to change the rings on one side only, it would be a horrible job on these motors because the cylinders are a part of the case casting.

It's in a bay so it sort of counts Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My stupid question concerns multi grade oils:
Is it ok or normal to see globular jelloish "chunks" in the oil? I figured this may be the polymers in the multigrade sticking together, and it was already in the oil so I ran it. The oil was maybe a yr or two old and was all I had while on the road.

Bubmlebus >> That looks like a oil pressure sensor.
BumbleBus wrote:
Is this an oil temp sender?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

timo78 wrote:
My stupid question concerns multi grade oils:
Is it ok or normal to see globular jelloish "chunks" in the oil? I figured this may be the polymers in the multigrade sticking together, and it was already in the oil so I ran it. The oil was maybe a yr or two old and was all I had while on the road.


I have never seen that in an oil before Sad Not even oil I've had shelved for years. Considering they were gelatinous globs and nothing abrasive you're probably fine but I wouldn't trust that oil. Imagine what would happen if you tipped it through a strainer. The globs might clog it.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rat. Once that pint was tipped, there was no taking it back it. No issues on the 100 mile return, except my brain on sensory overdrive. Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

timo78 wrote:
Bubmlebus >> That looks like a oil pressure sensor


Thanks for the info! Makes sense as I've never heard of a temp sender being installed right near the distributor on a type 1. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nevermind. Just too stoopid. LOL
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

timo78 wrote:
My stupid question concerns multi grade oils:
Is it ok or normal to see globular jelloish "chunks" in the oil? I figured this may be the polymers in the multigrade sticking together, and it was already in the oil so I ran it. The oil was maybe a yr or two old and was all I had while on the road.


If its off white/ yellow-ish, its most likely condensation interacting with your oil. My 64 bug had that as a result of driving short little trips to and from the train station every day. Since the engine never really got hot enough to evaporate this small amount of water, it just collected in my oil filler cap. As your oil is pretty old, give it a change and take it out on the interstate for about 15 minutes. Should clear that problem right up. Wink

or just change the oil and drive as is. Its important to take your vw out and run it good once in a while though, but the condensation globs wont hurt your engine.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple of quick ones here.
What do the wires go to in this pic? One is under the #3 manifold. The other is a set of white ones under the air plenum

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Also, what screws into the drivers side heat riser?

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Lastly, what guage are the majority of the wires in the wire harness?
You know, gound wires, wire to oil pressure sensor and such, they all look to be the same size.

Thanks
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The arrow closest to the head is your TS2 (temp sensor 2), it plugs into a single wire nearby. The ones by the plenum are grounds (There's a tab plate on the case seam), make sure they are clean and tight.
The screw hole on the booster fan tube is for the screw that goes through the tab sticking out of the HE to keep it on there.
As for wire gauges each one may be different, the diagram lists every wire's gauge on every circuit in mm.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how does the brake light warning switch wire up, if i want it to turn on when i pull on my e brake, and turn off when i take off the brake?

also, if my back brakes are loose, would my front brakes squeal more when i roll backwards?

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Stuart
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

also, whats the in line fused wire that comes from the back of the bus into the fuse block? there is a inline fuse about 6 inches off the block.
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